The quieter alternative to the Cotswolds and where to go, from a local who knows

I never thought I would move back to where I grew up. In England’s smallest county, where an annual “fatstock” agricultural show is a highlight on the calendar, I longed for the excitement of the city. So much so, that heading to sixth form in Peterborough, about 20 miles from Rutland, felt positively exhilarating. But here I am, 20 years later, a fully-fledged member of the “Notswolds” fan club, living just half an hour from my childhood home. In recent years, the term “Notswolds” has come to denote an “emerging” part of England – Domesday Book notwithstanding – which has all the charm and rolling country character of the Cotswolds, but without the crowds. The regions even share the honey-coloured stone their quintessential villages and towns are built from, thanks to a band of limestone linking the two. Notswolds.com, a website that recently launched to “bring together and showcase the makers, growers, and independent businesses defining modern countryside life”, describes the Notswolds as “anchored by Rutland”, and stretching through the borderlands of Northamptonshire, Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and Cambridgeshire. Shorts The region recently gained further attention when the Robert De Niro-backed luxury hotel group Nobu announced plans to open a hotel, restaurant and residences near Stamford. Might we soon see Vito Corleone popping up at Rutland Water for some bird watching? Here are the six places I’d recommend visiting in and around Rutland. Stamford, Lincolnshire One of the finest Georgian towns in England, Stamford – just a few miles from the Rutland border – is a Notswolds must-see. A “mini Bath”, and so well-preserved and maintained that it’s often used as a filming location for period dramas, Stamford is a mass of church spires and grandeur, centred around a winding river and meadows. St Mary’s Street is all twinkling independent shops and diners gathered on higgledy-piggledy terraces; The Slanted Door restaurant, for example, is as the name suggests. Heading down St Mary’s Hill, you’ll find the pleasingly well-stuffed second-hand book shop St Mary’s Books, before coming to the treasure trove that is St Martins Antiques Centre. The Tobie Norris pub and Milly’s Bistro are my favourite spots for a Stamford Sunday roast. It may be historic, but Stamford is brimming with contemporary stores and cafés, such as the Ink & Ember book shop, the Gladwell & Patterson gallery (beautiful and welcoming to browsers) and the plant-based Blonde Beet: I’m not vegan, but it’s often my go-to for a colourful lunch or morning brownie (note – you need to climb stairs to reach it). Nearby, Tolethorpe Hall seasonally plays host to the Stamford Shakespeare Company in its open-air theatre. Stay: The George Hotel for novel, old-world grandeur (rooms from £280 B&B), or the Crown Hotel for a smart town-centre base (B&B doubles from £170). Burghley House, Lincolnshire Take in the deer park for free, or pay to enjoy the parklands (Photo: Lee Martin/Burghley House) Just outside Stamford, you can meander around Burghley House’s sprawling deer park for free, taking in views of the striking 16th century stately home – also often used as a film set – or you can pay to access the new adventure playground and the lake and Capability-Brown designed parkland beyond. Rutland Water The expansive Rutland Water, a man-made reservoir, is popular for its scenic walks, cycling routes and wildlife. You can take a stroll down to Normanton Church, jutting out against a backdrop of water and sky, and there are plenty of cosy village pubs close to the shoreline (The Olive Branch in Clipsham is well worth a detour). Wildlife enthusiasts may be interested in The Rutland Osprey Project, based at Lyndon Visitor Centre. A walk or bike ride around Rutland Water should include a stop at Normanton Church (Photo: Getty) Stay: Hambleton Hall is at the pricier end of the scale, but offers a little slice of classic charm, with sweeping views from Rutland Water’s peninsular – and a Michelin-starred restaurant. B&B doubles from £425 per night. Uppingham, Rutland Helped by the presence of some historic public schools, there are several, thriving market towns in the Notswolds, including Oakham (Rutland’s county town), Oundle (Northamptonshire) and – my favourite – Uppingham, which is where I grew up. Set around a picture-perfect market square, my favourite spots are Baines Bakery, trading since 1867 (I can’t waft past it without accidentally inhaling a flapjack), the small Friday market and Goldmark Gallery, a family business specialising in ceramics, original art and prints. Once a year, in November, the annual Uppingham Fatstock Show descends on the square, and the gathering of so many farm animals is quite a sight to behold. To balance out such traditions, there are a number of modern cafés and restaurants, including Fern, a small-plates restaurant at the Falcon Hotel, an old coaching inn on the square, which was recently recognised in the Good Food Guide’s list of Britain’s 100 Best Local Restaurants. Stay: The Falcon Hotel opens out on to the market square. B&B doubles from £100 per night. The Welland Valley The Harringworth, or Welland, viaduct is a striking local landmark (Photo: Tanya Leaf/istock/Getty) The pretty town of Market Harborough in Leicestershire has plenty to explore nearby. Tucked into the shadow of the striking Welland Viaduct are wonderful pubs and inns such as The George and Dragon at Seaton (which has been awarded an AA rosette for culinary excellence) and the Old White Hart at Lyddington (on the village green, and with rooms). From there, you can head down to the imposing Rockingham castle and the peaceful Eyebrook Reservoir, and back to Market Harborough via the chocolate box villages of Medbourne and Hallaton – home to the 600-year-old traditional “bottle-kicking” contest, held every Easter Monday. The nearby Nevill Holt Estate holds an annual festival of opera, arts and entertainment, which this year welcomed the likes of Kristin Scott Thomas and David Olusoga. Stay: A bit of an alternative suggestion, but anyone looking to privately hire an English country house might look at Keythorpe Hall’s concept, from £7,000 per night, sleeps up to 20. Not quite the Notswolds – Peterborough Cathedral, Cambridgeshire Also known as the Cathedral Church of St Peter, St Paul and St Andrew, the city’s cathedral is well worth a daytrip (Photo: Rob Atherton/istock/Getty) I’m going to go off-brief for a moment. Peterborough may get a bad rap, but the Norman cathedral at its heart is well-worth a visit. It will soon launch an exhibition on Mary Queen of Scots, who was initially buried at the cathedral after being executed at Fotheringhay (Northamptonshire). Stay: The Nest Glamping offers three luxury safari lodges and is open to the public for wild swimming (booking required). A midweek, two-night stay starts from £450.