On the Sauce at De Beauvoir Deli: Bread and wine in N1

De Beauvoir has always befuddled me. What even is it? These days I have friends who live there. They host parties with gazebos and good buffets, more courgette tartlets than mini spring rolls. I enjoy both. And now I enjoy De Beauvoir, an upmarket tract of London sandwiched between Islington (boring) and Dalston (very much not). Also, it’s full to the bloody rim with places successful people go to: Towpath Cafe, host of Jessie Buckley’s wedding party (Guinness and cheese toasties); The Dreamery, which sells ice cream and wine to people who probably aren’t called Susan or Keith; and Godet, the idea of which makes me sleepy, and yet is good. Floppy prawn wontons and mondeuse? Sure, any time. I’ll wear colourful socks beneath my Birkenstocks and talk about mental health and relationships if you’d really like me to.There’s another new place in these frivolous parts. It’s not a riot, but it’s soothing, somewhere for a light Sunday or a Tuesday evening before heading back before 10pm to watch a TV show that isn’t The Bear, because it’s pure wank. Anyway, there’s been a deli of the same name for years. Locals visit for Dusty Knuckle bread, famous olives and even more famous anchovies. The wine bar is a logical chapter and a lovely one. Brunch looks pleasant, though it appears light on eggs; lunch features salads but they should rethink whipping the feta — too many people, me included, have been spending time on Greek islands this summer for that. I went in the evening and had small plates and rose, having first tried a disastrous orange from Alsace. I like orange wines a lot of the time, before you say things. The rose was some sprightly thing from the Languedoc, though, assured and light and refreshing. Positively ideal. And there’s a tantalising selection of charcuterie and cheeses (always pleases) and Guinness and Marmite butter to go with spongy bread. You could just have some of that and share a bottle and everything will be completely fine, even if you don’t really know where you are.