I found a quiet side to Crete, with sandy beaches, gentle hikes and great food

I’m sitting outside eating feta-filled pastries, Greek salad and dakos – barley rusk topped with tomato, cheese, olive oil and herbs. It’s a late afternoon in September; the sun is still glaring and the day has passed exactly as you might expect from a trip to Greece: eating, swimming and drinking wine. But this isn’t the Crete most British holidaymakers get to see. I’ve come to Ierapetra, a lesser-known city on the south coast, in the shoulder season to find out what one of Greece’s most popular islands is like after the peak summer crowds have gone. In 2025, there were well over a million tourist arrivals in July and August, dropping to 891,444 in September and 599,856 in October. Outside of peak summer and away from the tourist-heavy north coast, there is a slower side to the island – one of family-run farms, hiking trails and quiet beaches, with plenty of sun left to enjoy it all, particularly in Ierapetra, which is known as one of the sunniest places in Greece. It’s also home to a maze-like old town, a 13th-century Venetian fortress and plenty of beaches nearby. Shorts Kales Venetian fortress, at the entrance to Ierapetra’s harbour, dates back to the 13th century (Photo: Gatsi/Getty) My base for the trip is Numo Ierapetra, an adults-only beachfront resort that feels noticeably quieter than any resort I’ve been to. The only sounds are the occasional chatter of nearby couples or the sound of the sea from the private beach. There is none of the frantic energy I’ve experienced on Mediterranean holidays in July. And rather than keeping guests up late with loud evening entertainment, the outdoor cinema starts at 9pm and the films, usually blockbusters, are under two hours long. With temperatures in the 30s, it’s still more than warm enough to spend time outside and swim in one of the two pools, which never feel crowded and where there’s certainly no frantic rush for a sunbed. Some of the guests who aren’t poolside are reading on their ground-floor balconies; others are eating in the Tamarisk restaurant, which uses ingredients from local businesses like Aspras Terra, a farm that also offers cookery lessons. Numo Ierapetra Beach Resort sits on the island’s quieter south coast A half-hour taxi ride from the hotel, the farm opened its doors to the public for the first time this season. It’s been in the family of owner Maria Spyridaki for generations, and when I arrive, she tells me to look at the view. We stand in silence for several moments before she points out the mountain backdrop and tells me more about the farm, where she welcomes tourists who want to experience a more traditional side of Cretan life on the estate. There are olive groves and fruit trees, an organic garden with fresh herbs, chickens, a collection of family artefacts and traditional farming tools on display in one of the sheds. At a table outside her home, Maria teaches me to prepare a few traditional Cretan dishes, including boureki pastries and dakos, before we sit down to eat what we’ve prepared. Dakos is a classic Cretan dish, found all over the island (Photo: Alleko/Getty) The day before my visit, a German couple were here; the night before that, a group of 10. In September, the farm has had more younger couples, taking advantage of the quieter months on the island without the school-holiday crowds. And it’s not just foreign tourists who visit. Locals come to buy the farm’s produce, including olives, olive oil, peppers and aubergines. The aim, Maria tells me, is to give people a way to “feel the local spirit”. There’s plenty more to enjoy in this part of the island. Each morning I walk along the private beach, where the water is still warm, and other guests head out to explore landscapes like Mylonas gorge and waterfall, about 18km east of Ierapetra. Here, there is a hiking route that, the hotel manager tells me, takes about an hour and is popular at this time of year thanks to the slightly cooler weather. Milonas waterfall, close to Agia Fotia beach (Photo: Georgios Tsichlis/Getty) I come to realise that in Crete the September shoulder season is ideal. It’s warm enough to sit outside in the evening with a glass of wine and more food than is sensible, but there’s a different pace. There are fewer people and more opportunity to experience the island without feeling as though you’re following the same itinerary as thousands of other tourists. The best part, aside from coming back home feeling rested, is feeling like I’ve soaked up the last of summer before returning to the British autumn. How to get there Jet2, easyJet, TUI, British Airways and Corendon Airlines Europe all fly from the UK to Heraklion, a 90-minute drive from Ierapetra. Where to stay Numo Ierapetra Beach Resort Crete, Curio Collection by Hilton, has doubles from €175 (£150) with breakfast.