How Louis Vuitton’s Monogram, Now 130 Years Old, Became a Universal Status Symbol

EntertainingThe Latest Statement Plates Usher in a New Bohemian Age With Bold Florals, Trippy Colors, and Groovy PatternsFrom top: Elsie floral dessert plate by Greenrow; Virginia dinner plate by Carolina Irving & Daughters x Williamsburg; flower plate by Botosani Design from Svenskt Tenn; morning glory party plate by Rebekah Miles. Background: Mabille cotton by Soane Britain. Photo: Fujio Emura. Styled by Maggie DiMarco. Produced by Madeline O’Malley.From top: Rose Vine plate by Skye Chamberlain; tulips slipware dinner plate by Fitch & McAndrew from Abask; joy dinner plate by Zsuzsanna Nyul. Background: Koubla cotton by Décors Barbares. Photo: Fujio Emura. Styled by Maggie DiMarco. Produced by Madeline O’Malley.Legacy of a MotifHow Louis Vuitton’s Monogram, Now 130 Years Old, Became a Universal Status SymbolLouis Vuitton’s signature Monogram pattern arose as a solution to a problem that sounds surprisingly contemporary: dupes. The company’s game-changing canvas trunks, which were waterproof, lightweight, and stackable, inspired a rash of knockoffs, so in 1896, Georges Vuitton, the founder’s son, developed the repeating motif to set the brand apart from its imitators. The design’s intertwined L’s and V’s are joined by three floral symbols that draw on diverse cultural references, from Gothic cathedrals to Japanese family insignias. Over its 130-year history, the Monogram has evolved in tandem with Louis Vuitton’s shift from luggage manufacturer to luxury goods house.A 1912 Louis Vuitton monogram cavas hat trunk Photo: © Louis Vuitton Malletier / Patrick GriesA new monogram Emblème luggage tag Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton MalletierA 1996 DJ box by Helmut Lang Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton MalletierFrom left: Monogram origine side trunk, Speedy trunk 20, and Noé trunk Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton MalletierA leather label for a monogram origine Speedy trunk Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Malletier“The Monogram established a potent identity that only strengthened as fashion became integral to Louis Vuitton’s world,” says Pierre-Louis Vuitton, who is head of savoir-faire at the brand and part of the family’s sixth-generation leadership. “It appears across high jewelry, watches, and even ready-to-wear.”As the Monogram became a cultural touchstone, Louis Vuitton invited artists to reimagine the pattern itself. Urs Fischer’s red-and-black and white-and-black versions seem to stretch and warp the familiar elements, while Yayoi Kusama’s are overlaid with her signature dots. Perhaps most famously, Takashi Murakami’s Multicolore iteration unleashes a rainbow of letters and emblems across the products.The trademark registered by Georges Vuitton on March 21, 1905 Photo: Archives Louis Vuitton MalletierA leather label for the Noé bag Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton MalletierThe back cover of Louis Vuitton’s circa 1910 “Malles de Commerce” catalog Photo: Archives Louis Vuitton Malletier“The original patent explicitly indicated that the Monogram motif could be interpreted in different colors, sizes, and across various materials,” says Pierre-Louis. “Georges Vuitton clearly recognized its broader, innovative potential even at that time.”For the Monogram’s 130th birthday, Louis Vuitton has gone back to the pattern’s roots as a jacquard and created the Monogram Emblème, a woven organic cotton-linen blend that features a subtle three-dimensional effect. “The enduring legacy of the Monogram canvas is rooted in our savoir-faire,” says Pierre-Louis. “This foundational know-how, deeply embedded in our heritage, remains paramount.” —Julie CoeDebutLoro Piana Unveils a Suite of Dazzling Textiles That Captures Its Expansive Know-How and the Boundless Possibility of NeedleworkDerived from the Gaelic word for blanket or wrap, the plaid—not the pattern, but the cloth itself—was historically a quite humble, woolen thing worn for warmth in the Scottish Highlands. But reimagined at the hands of Loro Piana, it becomes a canvas for experimentation with exquisite materials and techniques, a confident display of savoir faire. During Milan Design Week this past April, the Italian luxury powerhouse unveiled Studies, Chapter I: On the Plaid, an artful collection of 24 fabrics, each one a distinct exploration of the brand’s ethos and expertise. The pieces now serve as a jumping-off point for clientele who can custom order the decorative textiles to use as decadent throws, pillows, or wall tapestries.Primavera in Valsesi Photo: Courtesy of Loro PianaDanza di Fibre Photo: Courtesy of Loro PianaWhen Loro Piana started making in-house collections in the mid-1980s, the plaid was among its first finished products. Today, these two dozen latest examples reveal Loro Piana’s range both creatively and technically, showcasing signature materials (vicuña, cashmere, their proprietary ultrafine wool) as well as craft methods like hand embroidery and jacquard weaving.Sherazade Notte (all from loro Piana’s new collection of made-to-order plaids) Photo: Courtesy of Loro PianaGara d’Inverno Photo: Courtesy of Loro PianaGara d’Inverno, for example, which depicts a wintry alpine road race in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy where Loro Piana was founded in 1924, was created through a complex screen-printing process. The elaborate paisley Sherazade Notte, by contrast, is made using three layers of hand-trimmed cashmere appliqué, glass beads, cashmere-and-silk cords, and multilayered hand embroidery. (It requires some 1,850 hours of work to realize.) Meanwhile, the graphic Danza di Fibre is crafted from cotton and cashmere with embroidery, needlework, and crochet techniques. Taken together, the array offers tactile storytelling at its most decadent, a narrative that captures the maison’s innovation and transformation from 19th-century wool merchant to contemporary luxury juggernaut, the pinnacle of quiet luxury, not only for ready-to-wear but also the home. —Natalia RachlinFinal TouchHosts Turn to Tory Burch for Cherry-Embroidered Linens That Blend Whimsy and Understated ElegancePhoto: Lila Barth. Styling by Madeline O'Malley. When it comes to dressing the table, hosts around the world look to fashion designer Tory Burch for inspiration. Her coveted home products, whether delicately painted glasses or punchy lettuce ware, never fail to deliver a spirit of sophisticated bohemia to a place setting. Burch’s latest party-ready collection of table linens promises to please a crowd, with a whimsical yet understated pattern of cherries. “I have always loved embroidered linens,” says Burch, citing “the contrast of delicate stitching against raw linen, and the way they become softer and more beautiful with time.” Created by New Delhi artisans through Marasim, the global collective founded by Nidhi Garg Allen, the line includes square and round tablecloths and cocktail and dinner napkins in both crisp white and deep espresso brown. —Madeline O'MalleyThese stories appears in the September issue. Never miss a story when you subscribe to AD.