Belitung: A beach escape closer to Singapore than Bali

BELITUNG – Half the flying time to Bali, and at times for less than half the price. But Belitung does not offer half the experience.Jumping into the warm, turquoise waters off Belitung makes that point quickly. It is slightly hard to believe that Singapore is less than 90 minutes away, and Jakarta about an hour, especially considering the kind of seawater found around both cities.For those living in or passing through Singapore, the island of Belitung off the eastern coast of Sumatra has now become much easier to reach. Scoot began twice-weekly direct flights in May 2026, restoring a connection that had been absent since 2019 due to the pandemic and reopening Belitung to international flights.Make no mistake, Belitung is no Bali. It is smaller, quieter and far less developed for tourism. There are no endless rows of beach clubs and international restaurants, or traffic jams caused by tourists on motorcycles.But after a few days here, it becomes clear why these aspects appeal to certain visitors. Several Singaporeans I met had come precisely because they wanted somewhere quieter, less crowded and a little less polished.Belitung is a draw for tourists looking for a more relaxed vacation where they do not have to jostle with big crowds. ST PHOTO: HARIZ BAHARUDINGranite giantsMuch of a trip to Belitung will inevitably revolve around water.Boats leave from Tanjung Kelayang on the island’s north-western coast for the small islands offshore, where the scenery is dominated by Belitung’s most recognisable feature: enormous granite boulders rising from white-sand beaches and shallow water.Some sit alone at sea, including one formation said to resemble Indonesia’s national symbol, the Garuda. Others are piled against one another, which creates passageways, sheltered pools and small caves that visitors can explore, or swim through when the tide is high.The formations are part of the geological landscape that earned Belitung and its surrounding islands UNESCO Global Geopark status in 2021.At Batu Berlayar, a tiny islet of white sand and giant boulders, the water is shallow enough to walk through, while boulders as tall as a double-decker bus can be climbed for views of the sea.Island-hopping takes up most of the day, with around five or six stops at popular places like Batu Berlayar and Lengkuas and smaller islands off Tanjung Kelayang. There is plenty of time in between to swim or snorkel, with lunch typically taken at Pulau Kepayang, one of the few stops with a restaurant and toilets.Lengkuas is probably the most recognisable, due to a lighthouse built by the Dutch colonial government in 1882 that still operates today.Pulau Lengkuas, a small island with white sand, palm trees and a Dutch lighthouse, is a popular island-hopping stop for tourists visiting Belitung. ST PHOTO: HARIZ BAHARUDINContrary to popular belief, the island is not named after the blue ginger known as lengkuas or galangal. Local lore has it that the name came from the way residents articulated the word lighthouse, which eventually became lengkuas.Belitung’s topography makes for a unique underwater landscape as well. It will not challenge Raja Ampat or Komodo for experienced divers, but its relatively shallow and decently clear waters and straightforward dive sites make it a good place for newer divers and snorkellers.For the more adventurous, one of the more interesting dives is the Indomarine wreck near Lengkuas. The inter-island cargo vessel sank around 1999 and now sits upright at about 18m to 22m, its structure colonised by coral and marine life. Swimming around the old cargo ship and peering into its openings makes for a fun dive.Sleeps and eatsParts of Belitung remain rural, the roads are quiet and tourism development is still relatively sparse. But getting around is easy enough, with plenty of companies offering a car and supir, or driver, for a daily rate of around $50.There are upscale resorts, smaller hotels and homestays, as well as backpacker options for budget-conscious travellers. Some of the larger hotels were fully booked during my visit in August, which falls within Belitung’s generally drier March to October period and is among the more popular times for island-hopping. The wetter months towards the end and in the beginning of the year can bring rougher seas and more rain.The Sheraton Belitung Resort, a five-star eco-resort located in the Tanjung Kelayang nature reserve in Belitung. PHOTO: SHERATON BELITUNG RESORT/FACEBOOKFresh seafood is a staple on the island, from ikan bakar, or grilled fish, to prawns to ketam isi, a local speciality of crab meat mixed with seasoning and served in the shell.Tanjung Pandan, the island’s main town, has plenty of coffee shops and a growing crop of cafes.One of them is The Well, an air-conditioned joint that would seem quite at home in Singapore, serving speciality coffee and cafe staples such as sourdough sandwiches, burgers and rice bowls.A notable aspect was the young local crew, who were eager to recommend dishes and describe the food.That earnestness is encountered quite often in Belitung. One afternoon, upon realising there was some extra time, my guide spontaneously decided to visit another beach even though it was not on the itinerary.This kind of enthusiasm might stem from the experiences of the Belitung residents during the pandemic, when international flights were halted and their connections with the outside world were severed.Belitung reveals a more rustic side of Indonesia many might not have experienced before. ST PHOTO: HARIZ BAHARUDINTin mining and rainbow troopsBelitung’s story, of course, began long before Scoot arrived. For generations, the island was synonymous with tin, with mining shaping its economy, landscape and communities.In the 19th century, a Dutch mining company was established to tap the area’s rich tin deposits, taking the name Billiton, as the island was then known. More than a century later, the name would live on in BHP Billiton, one of the world’s biggest mining groups.Some of that history can still be explored today, with geosites spread across the island covering its granite landscape, mangroves and old mining areas.There is plenty away from the coast too. At Bukit Peramun, visitors can trek through the forest during the day, or head out after dark with a guide in search of the Belitung tarsier, a tiny big-eyed nocturnal primate found only on the island.Other geosites take visitors through mangrove forests and landscapes shaped by the mining industry, including Kaolin Lake, where former mining pits have filled with water to form striking turquoise-blue pools against the pale, almost-white earth around them. Swimming in them, however, is not allowed.Kaolin Lake’s turquoise blue comes from water mixed with sediments of kaolin – a white clay that is soft and powdery – left behind by past mining activities. ST PHOTO: HARIZ BAHARUDINBut it was something else that really put Belitung on the map for many Indonesians.Laskar Pelangi, or The Rainbow Troops, is a 2005 Indonesian-language novel by Belitung-born writer Andrea Hirata, about a group of children from poor families determined to get an education despite their struggling village school. It became a publishing phenomenon in Indonesia, followed by a 2008 tearjerker hit of a film shot largely on the island.Tourist arrivals subsequently climbed from about 27,000 in 2007 to more than 55,000 in 2010, according to local tourism authority data, with later research finding that the film had a significant impact on visitor numbers.Almost two decades later, Laskar Pelangi continues to attract attention. In eastern Belitung, visitors can see a replica of the school featured in the film as well as visit the Andrea Hirata literary museum nearby. Tanjung Tinggi beach, with its white sand and huge granite boulders, also stands out as the film’s best-known filming location.Locals still point these places out with pride, a testament to how the book and film helped put Belitung on the map for millions of Indonesians. Now, the new direct flight may be introducing it to Singaporeans and travellers passing through the city-state looking to venture a little farther.Belitung offers visitors the comforts they desire, all while retaining its laid-back charm. With clear waters, delicious seafood and enough activities to fill several days, it provides a great experience should sitting on the beach doing nothing get a bit monotonous.Not bad at all for an island less than 90 minutes from Singapore.Visitors enjoying Belitung’s quiet beach charm as the sun sets. ST PHOTO: HARIZ BAHARUDINProduced by: Chang May Choon, Zurairi A.R, Siow Wong, Kelly Pang, Philip Cheong