A billionaire turned an ancient village into a well-priced luxury hotel

You arrive down a long driveway lined by cypress trees, with La Coquillade resort sitting on a rise above a wide valley. You can see what impressed the Impressionists in this region: dotted olive trees, vertical pencil pines, brightly dotted oleander flowers and a blur of distant orange ridges.La Coquillade in the Luberon.There isn’t a bad view anywhere, and the Provencal light is lovely. La Coquillade takes it all in like surround cinema. You can follow the day around the resort, from sunset to sunrise, and never tire of squinting out over the sun-freckled landscape.This is hardly the expected location for a luxury resort. La Coquillade sits outside Gargas, an hour’s drive east of Avignon in the Luberon region, east of Provence’s main sights and north of the French Riviera.The air is perfumed with rosemary and lavender. The region is dotted with rugged chateaux and crag-perched villages made of orange stone. La Coquillade occupies a village established by Cistercian monks in the Middle Ages, and who knows what horrible living conditions were endured over the centuries.The late Swiss billionaire Andy Rihs arrived in 2008 and created what the Italians call an albergo diffuso or scattered hotel. Much of the original village remains in a huddle of low stone buildings, along with a fountain and old walls.Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletterGet exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.La Coquillade could be a rustic cliche, but isn’t. Much that is modern has been added. Nothing is skimped. The swimming pool is Olympic sized. The spa is enormous and has a hammam, yoga studio and whirlpool with views over the vineyards.The resort was created from the bones of a village.Soaking up the vineyard views.None of the 69 rooms is standard. Some occupy renovated village buildings, while others are opulent new suites in a discrete modern wing that doesn’t impinge on the setting. Interiors are contemporary, softened by antiques and chic rugs and the startling creations of local artists. But there’s nothing showy: this is low-key and no doubt Swiss-influenced sophistication.The accolades for La Coquillade from venerable publications keep flowing: five stars from Forbes Travel Guide, two keys for an “exceptional stay” from Michelin, best resort in France according to Travel + Leisure.So, all good then, but if you equate billionaires with bling, parties and glamorous locations then you’re mistaken here. La Coquillade’s surroundings are rustic, and its activities highlight local experiences such as olive-oil production and truffle hunting.The interiors are contemporary, softened by antiques and chic rugs.The resort has a world-class cycling centre if you want to attempt a Tour de France lap or two. Use an e-bike if you don’t want to tackle the hills; a good route takes you to Goult, Roussillon and Gordes. A guide will go with you if you can’t be bothered working out directions.Work up an appetite. You might equate a lauded hotel in France with fussy fine cuisine, but there’s no pretension here, either. La Coquillade is Relais & Chateaux branded, which tells you how good the dining is.The resort is big on local produce, grows its own fruit, vegetables and herbs, and showcases Mediterranean flavours, but more precisely Provencal ones. Informal Cipressa overlooks the giant pool and leans Italian: cannelloni stuffed with fresh ricotta, green bean salad with redcurrants and hazelnuts.Bring an appetite with you.Les Vignes & Son Jardin serves bistro-style seafood and grilled meat dishes with light accompaniments. On its tables, which overlook grenache vines, expect squash veloute with chestnut cream, veal rump, dark chocolate creme brulee: what more could anyone want?Well, maybe something more next morning. La Coquillade’s pastry chef has won numerous awards, and the bread and pastries are fabulous. The buffet breakfast is worth a two-hour linger as you gaze over clipped hedges, rose beds and gnarly olive trees, and contemplate your day.THE DETAILSSTAYLa Coquillade has a variety of rooms, suites and family suites, and offers various wellness, cycling and dining packages. Rooms from €288 ($468) a night in the low season. Bookings made over 60 days in advance attract discounts of up to 20 per cent. See coquillade.frFLY + DRIVETurkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com) flies to Nice via Istanbul. Gargas is a three-hour drive from Nice or one hour from Avignon. The resort is 10 minutes (five kilometres) from Gargas.MOREluberon-apt.frThe writer stayed as a guest of La Coquillade.Brian Johnston seemed destined to become a travel writer: he is an Irishman born in Nigeria and raised in Switzerland, who has lived in Britain and China and now calls Australia home.From our partners