Why everyone's obsessed with 'azelaic acid'. I tried everything for rosacea, then the High Street serum transformed my skin... it really is worth the hype

Updated: 07:26 EDT, 2 September 2026 Daily Mail journalists select and curate the products that feature on our site. If you make a purchase via links on this page we will earn commission - learn moreSkincare enthusiasts will likely be well acquainted with the various acids on the market, from glycolic to salicylic, but azelaic acid is taking over. Beauty editors swear by it, and those with acne and rosacea-prone skin are likely to have come across it. But what skin concerns does it tackle? And is it gentle enough for sensitive skin? I asked three expert dermatologists to find out...What is azelaic acid? ‘Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that can be found in grains such as wheat, barley and rye. It has actually been used in dermatology for decades,’ says Dr Jonathan Kentley, a consultant dermatologist based in London.‘It has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, which is why it’s used to treat both acne and rosacea. It also supports the healthy function of how skin cells are shed within pores, so can reduce the formation of blackheads and whiteheads that can become inflamed spots.‘One of its other particularly useful properties is its effect on pigmentation. Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the production of [the brown pigment] melanin, so it can gradually help to fade the dark marks that are often left behind after acne or inflammation.’ Tester Lucie tried Dr Sam's Flawless Brightly Serum. Here she is seen before trying it (left), and after three months of use. Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, which calms redness from acne or rosacea Who is it suitable for?Potentially, almost everyone. ‘Because it’s called an “acid”, people assume it’s primarily an exfoliant,’ says Dr Sam Bunting, founder of Dr Sam’s Skincare. But, she says, it behaves very differently.Its strength lies in helping regulate inflammation, blemishes and pigmentation without stripping the skin’s surface.When it comes to concentration, Dr Bunting says 10 per cent is a sensible place to start, while a higher prescription strength (15 to 20 per cent) can be helpful for more persistent concerns.But, Dr Anjali Mahto, founder of Self London clinic, advises those dealing with persistent redness to seek professional advice. ‘Azelaic acid can be very useful for the inflammatory component of rosacea and may improve some associated redness, but it does not remove telangiectasia – the visible dilated blood vessels you often see with rosacea,’ she says.‘If you are repeatedly self-treating without improvement, seek a diagnosis rather than simply changing products.’How should you use it?Incorporating it doesn’t mean you have to overhaul your routine. Dr Bunting says it can work alongside other actives such as retinoids or vitamin C. She recommends her Dr Sam’s Flawless Brightly Pro Serum (£50, spacenk.com).‘Azelaic acid can be used in the morning or evening and, once the skin is accustomed to it, many formulations can be used twice daily,’ advises Dr Kentley.Consistency is key. ‘Some improvement can become apparent after around four weeks but I would judge results over months rather than days,’ explains Dr Mahto.SHOP: The anti-ageing skincare secret celebs don't want you to know about - used by the Kardashians, Gwyneth Paltrow and more (and it's only £16)READ MORE: How to get an Irish face! It's the new skincare secret you need for a flattering glow at any age: ROSIE GREEN