Which New Apple Watch Is Worth the Upgrade?

Every product was carefully curated by an Esquire editor. We may earn a commission from these links. Here’s how we test products and why you should trust us.Apple5 min readDespite being the Esquire office’s Apple evangelist, watches and wearables are where I think Cupertino is running mid-pack. Elsewhere, Apple is Secretariat crossing the finish at 31 lengths ahead, like with the iPhone 18 Pro and iPhone Duo.To keep going with this horse racing metaphor, the Apple Watch will certainly end up on the board at the end of the year. It’s always going to be the bestselling fitness and sleep tracker, and hardware-wise it’s easily in the top three. But Oura rings, Eight Sleep mattress covers, and smart alarm clocks all eat into what the Apple Watch is doing. For Apple’s part, I’m lukewarm on it winning the device triple crown every year because of the opposition—not because of anything Apple isn’t trying. Because let me tell you, it’s trying some stuff.It has already seen a few raised eyebrows with its announcement of forthcoming Audio Intelligence features. And to be clear, the two hot topic features are not yet released, so this review can’t comment on how Live Rewind and Siri Recap work in real life. But, I’m pretty ambivalent on the outrage. Every company is going in this direction, and the courts will catch up to work out the privacy stuff soon enough.So, since Apple isn’t far-and-away in front here, I think the best way to look at the watches through the classic question: Should you upgrade? Out of the new models, which one is worth going for?Apple Watch Series 12: Readiness Scores and Big Tracking UpdatesThe big update for Apple Watches—besides all the Intelligence stuff that I don’t think is all that life-changing—is the introduction of readiness scores. This is where Apple has been behind for the past couple of cycles.The introduction comes thanks to a revamped tracking system, the part with the lights that sits on your wrist. The sensing system—made up of three layers: electrodes, photodiodes, and LEDs—has been totally redone. You’ll see this most clearly with the photodiodes (the light receivers that actually take measurements), which are now arranged in trapezoidal shapes in a higher-surface area ring. The result, according to an Apple study (take branded studies with a grain of salt, but they still go through a review process), is the best wrist-worn wearable tracking on the market.I will spare you all the technical details and say that these upgrades make the watch more powerful and battery-efficient. It has gotten the Apple Watch to industry standard. An Apple Watch used to measure your heart rate every five or so minutes. Now, it measures every five seconds. It will now give you Heart Rate Variability (HRV) readings every five minutes. HRV differs from heart rate in that it measures the changes in-between periods between heartbeats. High variability is actually a good thing, showing your cardiovascular and central nervous systems are working in tandem, providing peak efficiency.This is all viewable in the Health App, and it will be better displayed when Apple updates the Health App later this year. My big takeaway from that Health App update is that Apple will start using measurements to give you more specialized readouts. Readiness score is one, but the most interesting, to me, is Health Age. That’s the stuff Bryan Johnson and the biohackers care about. Your watch will now help tell you, a 55-year-old man that, hey congrats, all those cigars and late nights mean you have the cardiovascular system of a 65-year-old man—at least you have the data to change your ways.And because this is Esquire and we traffic in vanity, let us mention this new gorgeous Dark Bronze color on the Series 12. I think it’s so handsome, no notes.So, the big question:Is the Series 12 worth an upgrade? Yes, I think this is a huge upgrade from where the Series was last year, and it speaks to exactly the right customers. Plus, the price point is still very competitive. If you’re using an old Apple Watch or an Android-based watch you’re about ready to move on from, this is the year to do it.Apple Watch Ultra 4: The Least Exciting of the Bunch That headline is a bit nit-picky. The Apple Watch Ultra is a feat. We’ve loved this line in its first, second, and third iterations. But... well I’ve come to expect greatness here.Apple gives the Ultra 4 the same greatness it gives the Series 12. You get more accurate, more regular, and more comprehensive health tracking tools. Besides this, it’s the same dive and ruggedness specs, same satellite capabilities. For me, it’s all that stuff that puts the Ultra line next to the Garmins of the world, and while I still think it’s competitive, I don’t think it’s made a massive leap.One thing I’ll say before I give a verdict: This year’s watch bands are great. For the rubber dive bands, Apple’s design team wanted to pull inspiration from the ocean, so they all have this semi-translucent watery quality. I love it, especially on this “kelp green.” It looks incredible paired with the natural titanium.Is the Apple Watch Ultra 4 worth an upgrade? Not if you are on the Apple Watch Ultra 3. But if you are choosing between this and the Ultra 3, get this one—worth whatever the post-launch price jump will be.Apple Watch Ultra 4 Hermès: I Am... All InDorks on Reddit love to joke about the Hermès line of Apple watches. Who would ever pay this much extra for a logo? Eat the rich. Blah, blah, blah. I don’t care. The smart ones will say, “This isn’t for the Apple Watch customer who likes Hermès, it’s for the Hermès customer who wants an Apple Watch.” Bingo! And I love that Apple makes these. Call me a snob, but I think it adds a bit of pedigree to the lineup.Usually, though, it’s an afterthought. There’s a new special lock screen, a different band color, and call it a day. This year though, the Hermès line got two aesthetic upgrades I’m really into.First, the one that’s not shown is, the regular Hermès Series 12, got a radiant gold finish—the first time Apple has done that. But what I really love is this full titanium dive band on the Hermès version of the Apple Watch Ultra 4. It jacks the price up to three grand but it looks incredible. Add to that this scuba diving active lock screen, and I’m hooked. It looks so sick. If I was a serious businessman, I would buy one immediately.Is the Apple Watch Ultra 4 Hermès worth an upgrade? Obviously I’m crazy if I say yes, but...if you have the money. I think the design tweaks—though small and superficial—are too fun not to celebrate. Maybe for the common man there will be a Swatch Apple Watch. That’s a billion-dollar idea. Someone get me in a room with John Ternus.