From seafood shacks and ice cream stands to locally sourced sit-downs, travel and food writer Luke Pyenson shares dining destinations not to be missed.Getty/Amy Voll/Mac’s Seafood/Sweet IzzyBetween all of Cape Cod’s lobster roll spots and a town literally named Sandwich, you’d be forgiven for assuming that the peninsula is a challenging destination for gluten-free travelers. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. I’ve been coming to the Cape my whole life; when my mother developed a gluten intolerance and my wife was diagnosed with celiac disease, I learned firsthand how seriously Cape Cod restaurants treat this dietary restriction.In addition to serving New England classics like clam chowder and fried seafood, the Cape still proudly showcases its historic Portuguese identity through its cuisine. (Many folks from this region came over in the mid-1800s to work in the whaling industry.) I grew up slurping kale soup with my fish, and I devoured linguiça long before I liked lobster.Seasonal migration by Jamaicans has also been spicing up local menus since the ’90s; these days there is a robust community of year-round Jamaican residents and an established tradition of locally inflected jerk, curry, and more.All of these offerings, plus creative dishes that gently update the Cape’s culinary identity, are available gluten-free, ensuring that folks who can’t eat gluten don’t need to compromise.Housed in a charming red house on the Mid Cape, The Pheasant has been elevating the local dining scene since 2018. Pictured here: A half chicken with pickled green strawberry and English pea relish. Paige Ashley HardingSome of the following spots are old family favorites; others have joined the fold more recently. While there are restaurants on this list from the Upper and Mid Cape, the Outer Cape is better represented, partly because of where my travels have taken me and partly due to the influence of local restaurateur Mac Hay, who is himself gluten-intolerant. One bite of Mac’s gluten-free fried fish sandwich and you may just think the Cape is the greatest GF destination on earth. Here’s where to try it—plus plenty of other spots worth a stop on your next trip to the area.Pickle Jar KitchenLocated in: FalmouthA down-to-earth café along Falmouth’s Main Street, Pickle Jar Kitchen excels at creating gluten-free sandwiches, salads, and other options—even gluten-free French toast—for a casual breakfast or lunch. When I dined here the staff was knowledgeable about what could and couldn’t be prepared sans gluten, though there are many options from across the menu. For breakfast order a GF egg and cheese with linguiça for some local Portuguese flair; at lunch top your lettuce leaves and other assorted veggies with apple-cranberry vinaigrette and chicken salad, or try a sandwich with pastrami-cured salmon, pea shoots, and fennel.The Pheasant’s ever-evolving menu celebrates the season’s best ingredients. Pictured here: a gluten-free French omelet finished with silky koji beurre monté and paired with grilled gem lettuce. Paige Ashley HardingThe PheasantLocated in: DennisIs there anywhere else on the Cape to get a bottle of Jura Savagnin and a jerk pork shank with escovitch pickle and curry mayo? No way. A restaurant from the team behind specialty wine merchant Dunn & Sons, The Pheasant has invigorated the Mid Cape dining scene since opening in 2018. Set in an unassuming red house with beautiful hardwood floors, it is a lovely venue for enjoying thoughtful plates like citrus-cured halibut with chili crisp and grapefruit and seared local fish with caponata and Calabrian chile. The menu notes which dishes are gluten-free, but servers can often suggest modifications to other items when asked. Down the street their sister wine bar, Baleine, open since last year, offers an ever-changing list of interesting wines by the glass. Consider stopping by for a pre- or post-dinner drink.Whipped cream and “Oreo” cookies are just some tasty toppings on offer. Sweet IzzySweet Izzy’s proves indulgence can be for everyone, with gluten-free scoops and toppings at Cape Cod’s first—and only—plant-based ice cream shop. Sweet IzzySweet IzzyLocated in: Harwich PortSet in a cute Cape-style cottage in Harwich Port, Sweet Izzy is a dedicated gluten- and dairy-free ice cream shop that’s been scooping since 2020. Flavors skew classic, but among them are several that are often quite difficult (if not impossible) to find gluten-free: cookies ’n cream, coffee “Oreo,” and chocolate fudge brownie. Everything comes in cups or GF waffle cones, but even more fun are gluten-free toppings like chocolate-covered pretzels, graham crackers, and hot fudge.Mac’s Chatham Fish & LobsterLocated in: ChathamSet among manicured grounds bursting with hydrangeas and rhododendrons, Mac Hay’s outpost in Chatham has his restaurant group’s signature gluten-free fried seafood (including the fish sandwich!) and a globally inspired lineup of mains that skews Mexican and Pan-Asian. Lobster enchiladas come with salsa roja, queso fresco, and lime crema; pan-roasted salmon is accompanied by gluten-free peanut noodles and cucumber salad spiked with nuoc cham (a Vietnamese dipping sauce). For dessert you can try Mac’s own creation from Chatham Ice Cream Bar: caramel-fudge-swirl ice cream tucked between gluten-free brownies with chocolate-caramel topping.Buffy’s, an iconic Cape Cod institution, creates ice cream bars with imaginative flavor combos for a one-of-a-kind sweet treat. Many of them are gluten-free. Buffy's Ice CreamBuffy’s Ice CreamLocated in: ChathamStarted as a pandemic passion project, Chatham Ice Cream Bars transitioned from a local farmers market mainstay to the beloved ice cream parlor Buffy’s in 2022. The Chatham shop is now a destination for imaginative ice cream sandwiches, several of which are gluten-free and produced with strict celiac-level precautions. How imaginative are we talking? The Tern Island Bar pairs GF snickerdoodles with cheesecake-fudge-swirl ice cream and caramel, while the Schoolhouse Pond Bar smooshes mocha-chip ice cream between GF espresso cookies with a mascarpone topping.Branches Grill and CafeLocated in: ChathamSadly, a few popular Jamaican restaurants on the Cape have closed in recent years, but Branches, open since 2018, remains a joyful gathering place—and most of the menu is gluten-free. Alongside favorites like jerk chicken and pork, the eatery dishes up escovitch fish, a Jamaican beachside classic, which is topped with tangy pickled veg and served with addictive fried cassava cakes called bammy. While these naturally gluten-free wonders come from a shared fryer, they can be fried separately upon request (as can plantains) for celiacs and others sensitive to cross contamination.All of the fried food at Mac's on the Pier is gluten-free, including the clam strips. Amy Voll/Mac’s SeafoodMac’s on the PierLocated in: WellfleetScenically located at the edge of Wellfleet Harbor, Mac’s on the Pier is the most casual in Mac’s family of restaurants. All classic fried seafood dishes are gluten-free, and deliciously griddled gluten-free buns are offered for sandwiches. The fries here are great, but even better are the gluten-free onion rings, dredged in the same distinctive cornmeal coating used for the seafood. Alongside all the fried delights, there are internationally influenced offerings like a Caribbean seafood bowl (the kitchen staff here is largely Jamaican), and poke bowls—try the local tuna, which comes from the eatery's sister fish market next door. On cooler days and chillier nights, there’s nothing better than a cup of Mac’s gluten-free clam chowder.Cooke’s SeafoodLocated in: OrleansAn Orleans institution entering its 51st season this year, Cooke’s has the friendly atmosphere of a family-oriented diner, with plenty of outdoor seating available on a shaded patio. Lobster rolls are a specialty, and they’re available on Udi’s gluten-free buns. Make sure to add a side of fries—they're made in a dedicated GF fryer. Fried seafood is not gluten-free, so broiled platters are the safest bet, but save room for dessert. Cooke’s offers the gluten- (and dairy-) free Oyster Pond Bar from Chatham Ice Cream Bars, which features coconut-almond-chip ice cream sandwiched between soft almond macaroons with a chocolate topping.The Stop Light maki roll at Mac’s Shack features tuna, avocado, mango, yellowtail, green onion, and sriracha. It’s one of the many gluten-free sushi options at the popular eatery. Amy Voll/Mac’s SeafoodMac’s ShackLocated in: WellfleetPerennially packed at the height of summer, Mac’s Shack is a more refined spot for lunch or dinner overlooking Wellfleet’s idyllic Duck Creek, which rises and falls with the tides. Occasional long waits are eased by access to the oyster bar out front—grab a dozen Wellfleets and a (strong!) cocktail while you figure out what to order. All fried seafood is gluten-free, and Mac’s Shack has particularly good fish tacos, which are served DIY-style with corn tortillas, guacamole, pickled onions, and other adornments. Seafood mains rotate seasonally but are always creative and largely GF, and there is a full sushi bar, where many offerings are gluten-free thanks to the use of tamari.PJ’s Family RestaurantLocated in: WellfleetLocated along Route 6 in Wellfleet, PJ’s has heaps of old-school charm. It’s equally beloved as a place to get lunch, dinner, and—perhaps most importantly—ice cream. On the savory front PJ’s offers gluten-free buns for its fabulous lobster rolls and a truly delicious linguiça roll for those who prefer meat. The fried seafood isn’t gluten-free, so it’s better to stick to broiled, but there is a dedicated fryer for addictive thick-cut French fries. Soft serve is a particular strength here, and devotees know to ask for the coffee–black raspberry twist, a Massachusetts oddity found at only a handful of parlors around the state. Gluten-free cones are available, and conscientious staff always wash their hands and change gloves for celiacs.Provincetown, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, USA - October 10, 2018: The Lobster Pot restaurant in Provincetown on Cape Cod.GettyThe Lobster Pot’s pan-roasted lobster comes with an herb butter sauce and red potatoes. The Lobster PotThe Lobster PotLocated in: ProvincetownThe Lobster Pot might seem like a tourist trap from the outside, but locals and washashores alike love this iconic establishment. Another fan? Anthony Bourdain, whose friends worked in the kitchen here in the ’70s. He once mused on an episode of Parts Unknown that the Lobster Pot “has what I want and need—the essentials.” This is true for gluten-free diners as well, who can order off a physical gluten-free menu that happily includes most of the Pot’s hits. Think: blackened or grilled local seafood with mango beurre blanc or sweet pepper butter; Portuguese soups and stews like shellfish Algarve and sopa do mar; and of course, lobster, just about any way you can imagine it.Lewis BrothersLocated in: ProvincetownThere are puzzlingly few places to get serious homemade ice cream on the Outer Cape, but Lewis Brothers is the exception. Set at an electric intersection on P-town’s main drag, the popular shop isn’t dedicated gluten-free but has plenty of safe options and a knowledgeable staff who will use fresh scoops and tubs when asked. The store doesn’t have GF cones, but its scoops are just as good from a cup.Mac’s Fish House serves up countless gluten-free delights, including this fish and chips dish, which comes with coleslaw and a tangy tartar sauce. Amy Voll/Mac’s SeafoodMac’s Fish HouseLocated in: ProvincetownThe Provincetown Mac’s outpost might be its liveliest and is open year-round. The menu here largely mirrors the Shack’s offerings, though there are always a handful of differences, like the gluten-free fried calamari with fried cherry peppers and lemon aioli. If you like (and miss) fried calamari, this dish alone is worth the trip. Mac’s Fish House also has a full sushi bar, though unlike the Shack in Wellfleet, there is less space to wait for a table on busy nights. That being said there’s more to explore in the general area, and you never know what you’ll see on a pre- or post-dinner walk around P-town.Luke Pyenson is a James Beard Award-nominated food and travel writer based in New York City. ... 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Where to Find the Best Gluten-Free Meals on Cape Cod
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