What Is Tonnato? The Classic Italian Sauce I Can’t Stop Making

Tonnato sounds fancier than it is. The Italian tuna sauce is best known as the creamy condiment in vitello tonnato, a traditional Piedmontese veal dish. Today it’s just as likely to be spooned over roasted vegetables, spread on sandwiches, stuffed into deviled eggs, and more. Which is why I can’t. stop. making. it.What is tonnato?Tonnato is a classic Italian sauce made from preserved tuna and anchovies, lemon juice, olive oil, and egg yolks. Modern methods usually rely on tinned fish, which breaks down seamlessly in a food processor or blender. Our shortcut version also ditches the eggs for mayonnaise and adds in capers for extra briny punch. Blitz everything together until smooth, and you’ve got a creamy, savory condiment that’s equally at home as a dip, spread, or sauce for roasted vegetables, sandwiches, or sliced meat.What does tonnato sauce taste like?Some people compare tonnato to tuna salad, but that’s selling it short. Blended until silky smooth, the ingredients become something entirely different: rich without being heavy, briny but balanced, bright with lemon, and deeply savory thanks to the anchovies. The fish is never too overpowering; it provides a backbone of umami that grounds the creamy sauce.How does a creamy fishy condiment inspire such devotion?I don’t know if it’s because I’ve been a cat lady for so long, but I can’t control myself around tinned fish. I’m like a slightly less manic Selina Kyle. When I see a recipe title with the word “anchovy” or anything adjacent to a tuna melt, my eyes laser in and I won’t rest until I’ve eaten it.Similarly, though less cat-like, my heart goes aflutter at any mayo-based dip. When mayonnaise dip meets tinned fish, you get silky texture and rich flavor, with enough versatility to pair with just about anything. Plus, the lemon brings contrasting brightness that keeps it from tasting stodgy. How do I say this another way... IT’S SO GOOD. And tuna has omega-3s and stuff to improve the general function of your cell receptors. So, you know: Wellness.How to make tonnatoRecipe informationIngredients1 (6.7-oz) jar olive-oil-packed tuna, drained and oil reserved½ cup mayonnaise2 oil-packed anchovy fillets3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 Tbsp. drained capersKosher salt and freshly ground black pepperMethodMeasure ¼ cup oil from one (6.7-oz) jar oil-packed tuna; discard or reserve any remaining oil for another use. (Alternatively, use ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil.)Purée drained tuna, ¼ cup oil from the jar, ½ cup mayonnaise, 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 1 Tbsp. drained capers, and 2 Tbsp. cold water in a blender until smooth. Season tonnato with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.Serve the tonnato at room temperature or refrigerate, airtight, up to 3 days.How to use tonnatoCharred Broccoli With Tonnato from Six Seasons Photo by Laura Dart and A.J. MeekerFrankly, what can’t you put tonnato on? Consider the recipe above a base to riff on. Cookbook author Rick Martinez makes a version spiked with habanero chiles and with the lemon swapped out for lime juice to drape over crisp-tender grilled green beans. Asparagus would be amazing given the same treatment, as would any grilled or roasted vegetable.Joshua McFadden’s life-essential cookbook Six Seasons features an ’chovy-free version served as a dip with charred broccoli. In the same book, he schmears tonnato on toast and tops with soft-boiled eggs.Chef Amelia Rampe trades the egg/mayo element for nutty cashews to use as the base for a roasted squash and cauliflower salad. Cookbook author Anna Stockwell blends up a tonnato filling for deviled eggs.It also makes a killer sandwich spread for leftover roast turkey breast, pork tenderloin, or a big ole slice of tomato. Thin it with a little more lemon juice and olive oil, and you’ve got a creamy vinaigrette for niçoise salad, potato salad, or simply dressed greens.Or just use it as a dip for crudités. Honestly, after one batch, you’ll probably spend the weekend discovering a dozen more things that improve with a spoonful of tonnato.Get grillingThe tonnato sauce here is a mayo miracle you'll want on everything.View RecipeEditor’s note: This story was first printed in August 2017; it has been updated for style with additional reporting by Joe Sevier.