What Does Non-Acnegenic Mean, Exactly? Dermatologists Break Down the Skincare Term

When I was a young girl in the early 2000s, there was always a bottle of that iconic blue Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser in my parents’ house. It was probably the only thing I washed my face with for the first 10 years of my life. But what stuck with me the longest (and perhaps was an early sign that I was destined to be a beauty editor) was that, right under the product name, the label said “non-comedogenic.” This new word perplexed me. I vividly remember trying to figure out how to pronounce it as I washed my face every evening, finally asking my mom during my very short nighttime skincare routine. She told me how to say it and what it meant in a way that a 7 year old would understand, and that was that. I was all up to speed.Fast forward two decades later, and I’m sitting here, perplexed once again, as I learn about a new-to-me, related-to-non-comedogenic term: non-acnegenic. I’ve been seeing the word pop up here and there when it comes to an acne-friendly skincare routine, but I had to know, what actually makes it different from non-comedogenic? Is it a marketing buzzword, or is whether or not a product is non-acnegenic really important to pay attention to? I had far more questions than 7-year-old me, so I turned to two dermatologists to explain everything.What does non-acnegenic mean?Let’s start with some good news: The definition of non-acnegenic is honestly pretty straightforward. “Non-acnegenic means a product has been formulated and tested so it won’t trigger acne breakouts, including the red and inflamed bumps and pustules most people picture when they think of acne,” says board-certified dermatologist Mona Foad, MD.If you have acne-prone skin and/or are currently trying to figure out how to get rid of acne, Dr. Foad calls it “one of the most useful labels you can look for.” This is because brands “typically test these products on people with acne-prone skin over several weeks with a dermatologist evaluating the skin for any new breakouts,” she explains.However, using a non-acnegenic skincare product isn’t a 100 percent guarantee that it won’t cause a breakout, unfortunately. “Think ‘less likely to invite a breakout,’” says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD. This label means the product is unlikely to cause or worsen acne, but there’s no way for a brand to promise that result for everyone.Is non-acnegenic the same as non-comedogenic?Non-acnegenic and non-comedogenic are different—but there’s plenty of overlap, Dr. Gohara says. Non-comedogenic, as you may already know, means that a product “is designed not to clog pores,” says Dr. Foad, who notes that a comedone is the technical term for a clogged pore. “Non-comedogenic addresses clogged pores, while non-acnegenic addresses the full picture of acne, including inflammation.”Here’s what I found really interesting: “A product can avoid clogging pores and still irritate the skin enough to trigger inflammatory breakouts,” says Dr. Foad. Just because a product is non-comedogenic doesn’t mean you won’t get a breakout after using it. But that doesn’t mean using a non-comedogenic product can’t be helpful in avoiding acne, either. “Clogged pores are the starting point for acne, so preventing them is the first line of defense,” Dr. Foad explains. “When a product carries this label, the brand is claiming that its formula won’t block your pores and set the stage for breakouts.” Think of it this way: Acne-prone skin wants protection from potential pore cloggers and acne triggers alike. So, if you’re shopping for acne-prone skin, Dr. Foad recommends looking for products that are both non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic.Oh, and another important thing to note: “Neither means the product actually treats acne,” says Dr. Gohara. Remember, these labels just mean that you’re putting skincare or makeup on your face that is less likely to set off a breakout.Are non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic actually a thing?As discussed above, non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic do have accepted definitions in the beauty industry. But there’s one super important caveat: Just like any non-medical claim on an over-the-counter beauty product, neither of these terms is regulated by the FDA. “This is one of the biggest sources of confusion I see,” says Dr. Foad. Because the FDA doesn’t define or regulate either of these, “there’s no standard test brands are required to use,” she says.What does that mean, exactly? “One company might test a product on dozens of acne-prone volunteers over several weeks, while another might rely on ingredient lists alone,” explains Dr. Foad. “That’s why these labels are a helpful starting point, not a guarantee.” Your best bet is to look for brands that are transparent about their clinical and consumer testing, so you can review those and decide for yourself if a product looks promising enough to buy.What ingredients should you look for in non-acnegenic products?There’s no one magical ingredient that automatically makes a product non-acnegenic, but these are often used in products meant to support acne-prone skin:Glycerin and hyaluronic acid “draw water into the skin without weighing it down,” says Dr. Foad.Niacinamide “calms inflammation, regulates oil production, and strengthens the skin barrier,” says Dr. Foad.Salicylic acid and retinoids both help with clogged pores, notes Dr. Gohara.Ceramides “repair the barrier, which is especially important if you’re using drying acne treatments,” says Dr. Foad.Benzoyl peroxide is an active ingredient that treats acne-causing bacteria, according to Dr. Gohara.Dimethicone and squalane “provide a smooth, breathable finish without clogging pores,” says Dr. Foad.Zinc oxide is a good option for face sunscreen “because it’s gentle and anti-inflammatory,” says Dr. Foad.Silica “helps absorb excess oil,” says Dr. Gohara.Glycolic acid provides surface exfoliation, says Dr. Gohara.​Again, the inclusion of these ingredients doesn’t guarantee you won’t break out after using them. If you have an allergy or sensitivity to anything on this list, you should avoid it.What ingredients should you avoid in non-acnegenic products?On the flip side, here are some ingredients to avoid, as they can trigger breakouts and clogged pores:Isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate “are two of the most well-known pore-cloggers, and they often show up in moisturizers and foundations,” says Dr. Foad.Coconut oil and cocoa butter “are heavy and can clog pores, despite their popularity on social media,” says Dr. Foad.Acetylated lanolin, laureth-4, and certain algae extractsFragrance “doesn’t clog pores, but it can irritate acne-prone skin and trigger inflammation,” says Dr. Foad.In general, for those who are acne-prone, “I’d steer them away from heavy, oil-based foundations, concealers, and facial balms,” says Dr. Gohara. Instead, look for lightweight foundations and other makeup products that don’t contain the ingredients above.Who should use non-acnegenic products?Of course, anyone who’s acne-prone, oily, or combination may want to ensure their beauty products are non-acnegenic. But beyond that, “they’re also essential for patients using prescription acne treatments like tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide, which can be drying and require a moisturizer that won’t undo their progress,” says Dr. Foad.While pimples are often associated with teenagers, you may also benefit from non-acnegenic products as you age: “I also see many women dealing with hormonal acne in their 30s and 40s, and through perimenopause and menopause, when breakouts can appear for the first time in years,” she adds.Non-acnegenic products to try:Non-Acnegenic Face SunscreenNon-Acnegenic Exfoliating SerumMeet the expertsMona Foad, MD, MHS, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder and CEO of MONA Dermatology, which she opened in Cincinnati in 2006. A graduate of The Johns Hopkins University and the University of Cincinnati College of Medicine, she has been voted a “Top Doctor” by Cincinnati Magazine every year since 2008.Mona Gohara, MD, is a clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine. She practices in Connecticut. She is a board-certified dermatologist whose clinical interests include acne, pigmentary disorders, and skin health across all skin tones.Why trust Cosmopolitan?Catharine Malzahn is a contributing beauty writer at Cosmopolitan with five years of experience researching and writing skincare and makeup stories.Catharine Malzahn is a contributing beauty writer at Cosmopolitan and was previously the beauty assistant at Good Housekeeping, Woman's Day, and Prevention.