Trisara: a wellness wonderland in Thailand

A giant, black-and-white speckled butterfly, the size of a small bird, is flirting with me. It swoops around my head as I mooch along the stone path. The air is scented with jasmine and, through the bird’s-nest ferns and towering palm trees, I can see a glimpse of the turquoise Andaman Sea beckoning me. I’ve arrived at Trisara, a family-owned resort carved into a lush hilltop on the north-west coast of Phuket.It might seem daft to travel 15 hours for a wellness break, but I am curious about the traditional Thai, immersive therapies this resort offers and hoping for a break from the hubbub of urban life. Arriving in Thailand has been a sensory delight: I’ve been greeted with a frangipani floral garland (so White Lotus), an iced towel to cool my skin and a zingy drink made of torched ginger and pineapple. Trisara oozes “quiet luxury”, with guests contentedly sipping cocktails under palm trees and the rhythmic sound of the waves kissing the beach. Sitting in 14 hectares of nature reserve, the resort’s 64 suites and villas are spaced out amid the jungle-like greenery across three terraced levels. Included are villas such as the super-luxe 10-bedroom Villa Sawan, which is more like a hotel-within-a-hotel, with its own cinema, underground spa and private cove. Whether you have an open-plan suite or your own villa, each is like a mini retreat where privacy is key. The opulent Villa SawanTrisara Down at beach level, things are more buzzy. The hotel offers a beach club vibe with snacks and drinks served to your sunbeds and a line-up of water sports on offer, such as wake boarding, sailing and SUP activities. Clustered around a picturesque, stepped courtyard is a handful of restaurants, including Phuket’s only Michelin-starred spot, PRU. Here, chef Jimmy Ophorst leans into farm-to-table dining with ingredients from Trisara’s own organic farm. For more casual dining, Cielo & Spice quickly becomes my favourite hang-out, with its mix of Eastern and Western dishes — from succulent blue crab khao pad poo to grilled whole sea bass and mezze platters. My wellness journey begins with a sound healing in a beachside, wooden pavilion. As the sea breeze drifts over me, the notes and vibrations hit me deep in my chest and my mind is carried off into the ether. In between Thai massages that use herbal compresses crafted from the kitchen gardens, and locally-made oils, which make me doze off, I spend plenty of time in my suite, happily pottering around. The bed is thoughtfully placed directly in front of the glass doors, so I make the most of those views by leaving the curtains ajar.The second evening, I dine in Thai Library, a Michelin-recommended restaurant with more of a fine-dining feel. The menu is inspired by age-old southern Thai recipes. There’s a tom som 100 years soup, a sour broth made with fish of the day and anchovy sauce, and goong khua gling praw khao maak — tiger prawns with roasted coconut and shrimp paste. It feels like a deep-dive into authentic Thai dining, unlike anything found in Thai restaurants at home. In fact, there’s an authenticity that shines through at the resort, which includes a focus on sustainability and the commitment to the community on the doorstep, with local suppliers, farmers and fishermen supplementing the produce used from its own farm. This sense of thoughtfulness is carried through to the wellness offering. During my stay, Sabina, my synergist, checks in with me, tweaking treatments and experiences and making sure I am comfortable. We swap a yoga class for outdoor meditation and breathwork, which focuses on shutting out the noise within. I lose myself to the rhythm of breathing in and out and reflect on the art of slowing down.Beachside vibesTrisaraNext year, the hilltop Jara Spa will introduce a new collection of immersive wellness journeys. Included are mindful programmes which see guests able to book silent retreats and spend time with local monks. “Inspired by the ‘butterfly effect’ the concept focuses on small moments that create lasting impact,” David Melladew, Trisara’s director of ecotherapy and wellbeing, tells me. Rooms at Trisara from £902, trisara.com; Thai Airways operates double daily non-stop flights from Heathrow to Bangkok, with onward connections to Phuket, thaiairways.com