This Unassuming Italian Coastal Town Captures the Magic of Cinque Terre—Without the Crowds

Portovenere is often proclaimed the Cinque Terre’s “sixth town.” But for me, that distinction belongs to the far less heralded Levanto. The first time I visited Cinque Terre, before I moved to Italy, my travel companion insisted we stay in Levanto, the town northwest of Monterosso.I went along with the plan, though part of me worried I wouldn't be getting the full Cinque Terre experience. Well, I couldn't have been more wrong. Not only that, I've returned to Levanto time and again since I’ve lived here—it’s my Ligurian beach getaway of choice when I need an escape from Milan.For starters, it couldn’t be easier to reach Levanto from Milan and the Cinque Terre from Levanto. The Intercity trains serving Monterosso also stop in Levanto, so there’s no need for a regional connection. Monterosso is just one stop (five minutes) away on the Cinque Terre Express, and the seasonal ferry service between the villages also makes select calls in Levanto.Terraced vineyards above Corniglia Getty ImagesYet despite its proximity to the Cinque Terre, Levanto remains a world apart. Home to around 5,000 residents, which is more than three times the population of Monterosso, it’s a lived-in town first and a tourist destination second, a reprieve from the over-tourism that has engulfed the Cinque Terre. Every year, around four million visitors converge on the five tiny fishing villages, placing immense pressure on their narrow streets, hiking trails, and centuries-old buildings.While Levanto has its share of visitors, it never appears overrun. Most are Italians or other Europeans, particularly the French, German, and British. I rarely hear an American accent besides my own.The town itself is also noticeably more widespread than the villages of the Cinque Terre. While the same steep leafy green hills surround the historic center, Levanto stretches along a broad gulf, giving it a palpable sense of space. The turquoise, kilometer-long shoreline is fronted by a palm-lined promenade and stately Belle Époque villas, including the bougainvillaea-draped Villa Agnelli, once the FIAT family’s summer residence. Unlike Cinque Terre's beaches, which are pebbly and tucked into tiny coves (except for Monterosso’s), the shoreline here is surprisingly sandy, with both private clubs and ample stretches of public beach.Medieval remnants survive throughout Levanto, including the 13th-century Gothic Church of Sant'Andrea and the Castello di San Giorgio, which rests atop a low hill. The Loggia Comunale, a 16th-century reconstruction of the medieval merchants' loggia, is recognized by UNESCO as a “Monument Witness to a Culture of Peace.” Inside, there’s a 15th-century fresco from the original structure. Just around the corner, PAT Bakery is the place to try gattafin, Levanto's signature savory fritter, usually piled high behind the glass.Scenery around Levanto Getty ImagesIn the historic center, narrow caruggi (alleyways) weave between pastel façades adorned with Liguria’s signature trompe-l'œil decorations and open onto piazzas. A stroll takes you past artisan bakeries and focaccerie and family-run alimentari (grocers) and pastifici (fresh pasta shops), eventually arriving at the covered market on Via XXV Aprile, whose stalls are heaped with regional produce, wild herbs, freshly caught fish, local cheeses, and other goods sourced from nearby farms and producers. It’s the best place to strike up a conversation with a local.At the northwestern edge, the former railway tunnel linking Levanto with Bonassola and Framura has been transformed into a walking and cycling path. Much of the route is covered, keeping it cool and shaded, though occasional openings reveal glimpses of the glistening sea. My favorite way to start the day is with a run to Framura and back.Of course, you'll want to explore the Cinque Terre while you're here. But Levanto offers plenty of reasons to stay put, too. It’s not the type of place where you rush from one sight to another, but that doesn’t mean it's sleepy; there are surf schools, paddleboarding, kayaking, sailing, bike rentals, and hiking trails, among other activities. Just as alluring, though, is the opportunity to slow down and relax, especially in the evenings.Here are some ideas for where to stay and eat, and what to do in Levanto.Levanto, Italy Getty ImagesWhere to stay in LevantoLevanto has several reliable three-star hotels if you’re just looking for a comfortable place to sleep. But if you’re after something with a little more character, I’d recommend these two.Oasi Eco Boutique HotelJust a five-minute walk from the beach, the family-run accommodation has 14 individually designed guest rooms where warm wood tones are paired with vibrant colors and a contemporary touch. Some rooms come with a private balcony, and others open directly to the garden. Breakfast is a highlight: Ligurian focaccia, eggs made to order, and other sweet and savory items.Villa ValentinaSet in the hills just outside the town, the family-run Villa Valentina is surrounded by olive trees and gardens. The nine guest rooms and suites evoke a refined Ligurian country house, with whitewashed beamed ceilings, painted wooden furniture, soft pastel hues, and French doors. Breakfast is homemade, and the complimentary shuttle and bicycles put the town within easy reach.Where to eat in LevantoFocacceria DomèFocaccia is required eating in Liguria. Levanto has no shortage of excellent options, and Focacceria Domè serves some of the finest. There’s always an extensive selection, including the cheese-filled Recco-style, making it an ideal stop for a quick meal or even for a snack to take to the beach. Expect a queue at lunch time, so plan accordingly.Address: Via Dante Alighieri, 18, 19015 Levanto SPL’Agave, FramuraTake the train or cycle (or stroll) to the end of the converted railway tunnel path—L’Agave is housed in Framura’s former station building, where you emerge from the tunnel. Tiered terraces open onto views of Framura's tiny harbour and the Mediterranean beyond, and the ever-changing menu celebrates Ligurian bounty through impeccably sourced seafood, herbs, and produce from the surrounding valleys. Owner and sommelier Marco Rezzano complements the cuisine with an all-Ligurian wine list.Address: Porticciolo turistico di, 19014 Framura SPGelateria Basilico e LimoneLigurian ingredients inspire flavors such as the shop’s namesake basil and lemon, pesto, and chinotto from Savona, though the classics are equally delightful. The owners source milk from the nearby Val di Vara and use seasonal local fruit—it’s considered one of the Riviera’s best gelaterie.Address: Via Giuseppe Mazzini, 9, 19015 Levanto SPPesto making Getty ImagesWhat to do in LevantoPrepare pesto the classic way Eating pesto is obligatory in Liguria, but it’s even more fun to make it yourself. The Romano family has been producing fresh pesto since 1976 and teaches a one-hour course on the traditional mortar-and-pestle method, a technique that’s more exacting than you might expect. The hands-on workshop concludes with a tasting of the pesto, paired with a glass of Ligurian Vermentino and an assortment of the family’s signature pestos.Address: La Nicchia Pestifera Wine Shop, Corso Italia, 16, 19015 Levanto SPBonassola Winery Discover “heroic” viticulture in BonassolaThe vineyards at Cà du Ferrà, a boutique winery in nearby Bonassola, cling to steep, dry-stone terraces overlooking the Ligurian Sea, where the vines are hand-worked. Owners Davide Zoppi and Giuseppe Luciano Aieta lead guided visits comprising a tour of the winery, wine tastings paired with local specialities, and an overview of local winemaking traditions. Experiences, available by reservation in English, Italian, and French, last around 90 minutes to two hours.Address: Via Nuova, Str. per S. Giorgio, 27/Bis, 19011 Bonassola SPMonterosso Getty ImagesHike to MonterossoThe trail from Levanto to Monterosso begins outside the Cinque Terre National Park, so it doesn't require a Cinque Terre Trekking Card. Better still, you’ll encounter fewer people than on the park's official trails. But the best part? Punta Mesco. It’s the only viewpoint that captures all five Cinque Terre villages at once.Address: Via Domenico Grillo, 10, 19015 Levanto SPThis article was originally published in Condé Nast Traveller UK.