The young Somali woman changing how the world sees Mogadishu

As the sun rises over the Indian Ocean, waves lap onto the golden sands while palm fronds rustle in the cool sea breeze. Welcome to... Mogadishu.This is the image that one young Somali woman wants the world to have of her home city - in contrast to the one of suicide attacks and young men wielding AK-47s that many people currently associate with Somalia's capital.Sucdi Abdul Fattah Abdul Khader is among a growing number of local guides taking visitors beyond the headlines to explore Mogadishu's beauty spots, historic sites and culture.Her favourite spot is Jazeera beach, where visitors can enjoy the sea before heading to nearby sand dunes."It's one of the tourist attractions where we bring our guests. It's a nice place," says the 23-year-old.The dunes, she adds, remind some visitors of the Sahara. But her tours are about more than scenic views. She also takes visitors to the fish market, where they discover the variety of marine life available along Somalia's extensive coastline and to parts of the city that reflect its history as a busy Indian Ocean trading centre, with the influences of both its Ottoman and Italian former rulers.Visitors can also sample Somali food, including camel meat, samosas and traditional tea.Sucdi says many arrive in the city with expectations shaped by years of hearing about the insecurity."Mostly, they are surprised by how beautiful the country is and how welcoming people are," she says.At the fish market, she says, visitors are particularly impressed by the variety of fish species.Tourism remains a relatively new field in Somalia, she says, with only a handful working as guides in Mogadishu.The business is seasonal, but Sucdi says this year has been particularly encouraging, although numbers are still fairly low. Having five tourists a week is considered a success but she is confident that numbers will grow.However, she says many visitors are still concerned about security.Since the collapse of Somalia's central government in 1991, Mogadishu has endured decades of civil war, destruction and displacement. Much of the city centre was reduced to rubble, and basic services and infrastructure largely broke down.But following the withdrawal of the Islamist militant group al-Shabab from most of the city in 2011, and the establishment of the federal government in 2012, Mogadishu has undergone a gradual transformation. Returning members of the Somali diaspora, local entrepreneurs and investors helped fuel a construction boom, with new hotels, restaurants, businesses and residential developments reshaping the capital. Today, Mogadishu is a growing commercial hub, although insecurity and the legacy of conflict remain part of everyday life.About 10,000 tourists visited Somalia in 2024, a 50% increase on the previous year, according to the country's tourism department.Many visitors ask about their safety before travelling and often encounter security checkpoints around the city.But she says their experience on the ground is generally positive."What they heard from the news and everywhere else is not the same as what they see in the country," she says.Although some question whether Mogadishu is safe enough for a young woman to be working as a tour guide, Sucdi is determined to continue.She wants visitors to experience a Somalia that is rarely seen."I would want them to see the beautiful, welcoming side of Mogadishu, and not the side that they heard from the media, which is explosions and bombs," she says.Somalia has Africa's longest mainland coastline, stretching more than 3,000km (1,860 miles) along the Indian Ocean and Gulf of Aden.Its beaches and sand dunes sit alongside historic coastal cities such as Mogadishu, whose culture reflects centuries of Indian Ocean trade.For some tourists, that contrast between the country's reputation and what they experience can be striking.American travel content creator Chris Reese, who goes by the name Authentic Travelling, has visited Mogadishu twice. His first trip, almost a year ago, was a solo visit. He enjoyed it so much that he decided to return with a group of friends, who had seen videos of his visit on social media."I had such a positive experience - I really enjoyed seeing the country for the first time - that I opted to bring back a group of my friends," he says.What stands out for Chris is the city's coastal setting, its food and atmosphere."It is such a beautiful tropical place. I love the vibe, the weather and the food," he says.During the group's visit, they enjoy lunch overlooking the Indian Ocean before heading out to explore the beaches and sand dunes."The desert is beautiful and picturesque. It is also amazing that it's barely a 30-minute drive from Mogadishu," he says.Before his first trip, Chris says, much of what he knew about Somalia came from international news coverage."If you only read the news reports about Somalia, you would be scared to visit. And honestly, that's what I saw in the media before I came, mostly negative headlines."But visiting the country challenged those perceptions."Coming here, on my very first trip, showed me that there is so much more to this country than what is shown in the headlines," he says.Mihaela Patap, from Romania, loves Somalia's natural beauty.Although she has spent only a few hours in Mogadishu, she has already visited the sand dunes and taken in the Indian Ocean coastline."The desert was so beautiful to see. I have also enjoyed the beach, and the ocean. It is inspiring," she says.Having travelled to Somalia from neighbouring Ethiopia, she says she has been struck by the people's friendliness."I don't see anything dangerous. I feel safe and the people are warm," she says.An experienced traveller, Mihaela says she prefers to visit new countries without having preconceived ideas."I travel the world to see new places, to see countries, to see the differences. I don't take a picture in my mind to compare the reality with. I'm just expecting the new to come to me," she says.She hopes to share her experience and encourage others to visit Somalia."I'm going to post my pictures and say good things about what I'm experiencing. I'm going to promote it," she says.For Sucdi, that potential is personal. She is continuing a family profession while building a business in an industry with few women and using digital platforms to reach audiences far beyond Mogadishu."Somalia still has a long way to go before tourism becomes a major industry," she says. "Through my tours, I am giving visitors an opportunity to experience its landscapes, our culture and people beyond the familiar negative headlines."For her, every visitor is another opportunity to tell a fuller story of Mogadishu.