The rebirth of Hawaii’s first beachfront resort is not to be missed

September 5, 2026 — 5:00amThe hotelMoana SurfriderSome things haven’t changed at Moana Surfrider, like the porte-cochere that greets guests on arrival.Check-inWhen it opened in March 1901, the Moana Surfrider became the first luxury hotel on Honolulu’s Waikiki Beach, heralding a new era of sophistication on the Hawaiian island of Oahu. In March, the property celebrated its 125th anniversary with a major refurbishment, refreshing all 791 guest rooms and its Victorian-era lobby. One thing that hasn’t changed is the grand porte-cochere that greets guests on arrival – still one of the loveliest welcomes on the island.The lookSign up for the Traveller newsletterThe latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.The elegant Victorian-era lobby.Tinkering with a classic is a delicate balancing act. Thankfully, this renovation is spot on, introducing contemporary furnishings and stylish local artworks to the lobby while preserving its imposing columns, sweeping staircase and original timber floors. The rooms are spread across three wings, each with its own character. Choose the Tower Wing for a luxury apartment feel, the Surfrider Wing for a relaxed, beach-loft vibe and the Banyan Wing if you want the romance of staying in the original 1901 building (although you’ll forgo a balcony). The property’s other showstopper is the banyan tree that dominates the beachfront courtyard. Planted in 1904 as a two-metre sapling, it’s now a 46-metre-wide giant that provides welcome shade.The roomA renovated room in the Tower Wing has knockout views of Waikiki from the balcony.My Deluxe Ocean room in the Tower Wing has an elegant residential feel, with plenty of natural wood, modern furnishings and ocean-inspired artwork. The en suite doubles as a dressing room with refillable jasmine-infused toiletries. The real wow-factor comes from the balcony, which offers a screensaver-worthy panorama of Waikiki Beach, the mouthwash-blue ocean and the forested slopes of Diamond Head. Watching surfers glide toward the shoreline while Hawaiian music drifts up from the bar below quickly becomes one of my favourite pastimes.Food + drinkThe courtyard banyan tree is an enduring feature at Beachhouse, the hotel’s main restaurant.The property’s main restaurant, Beachhouse, is a versatile venue that offers a solid breakfast buffet, an indulgent afternoon tea and an upscale three- or four-course surf-and-turf dinner. Nab a table at the ocean end of the verandah and you’ll have one of the finest dinner settings in Waikiki – a prime beachfront view of the sunset followed by a front-row seat for the nightly live music and light show that illuminates the banyan tree. Other options include the casual all-day Beach Bar, a poolside cafe and Vintage 1901, an intimate lobby bar with a live pianist at weekends, and A-grade people-watching from the rocking chairs on the verandah near the entrance.Out + aboutA stroll along the palm-tree-dotted oceanfront is always invigorating.It’s hard to quibble about the hotel’s compact pool when you’re steps away from Waikiki’s inviting waters. If you can tear yourself away from the sand, take a stroll along the palm-lined promenade towards Diamond Head. Along the way you’ll pass an entertaining procession of skaters, cyclists and lei-festooned holidaymakers. Admire the towering banyan trees in the beachfront parks and look out for endangered Hawaiian monk seals basking on Kaimana Beach. The hotel offers free morning yoga and meditation classes, but for something more energetic, tackle the winding ascent to the summit of Diamond Head for glorious coastal views (book a timeslot online in advance). For historic context, don’t miss the curated display of hotel artefacts on the Moana’s first floor, including a guest ledger from 1905, when rooms cost just $US1.50 a night.The verdictA thoughtful refresh of a much-loved classic. No other Honolulu hotel matches Moana’s elegance, ambience and historical significance.The essentialsFrom $US529 ($755) a night. 18 accessible rooms. 2365 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu, Hawaii, USA. Phone: +1 808 922 3111. See marriott.comOur rating out of five★★★★½HighlightRelaxing in the jacuzzi at the hotel’s beachfront spa after an invigorating signature massage.LowlightFrustratingly patchy internet. Free portable Wi-Fi hotspots are available, but it’s a needless inconvenience for a luxury resort.The writer was a guest of Moana Surfrider and Hawaii Tourism Oceania.More:Hotel reviewsUSABeach and island holidaysLuxury holidaysNorth AmericaHawaiiAfter abandoning a sensible career in IT, Rob McFarland now divides his time between Sydney, the US and Europe. He’s won seven writing awards, including Australian Travel Writer of the Year, and offers writing courses for tourism operators, PR professionals and aspiring travel writers. While not averse to a 5-star hotel, his most memorable travels include scaling the mountain behind Machu Picchu and rafting Patagonia’s Futaleufu River. Follow his travels on Instagram @mctraveller.Connect via email.From our partners