The lesser-known Austria with breathtaking hikes and bloody good food

This part of Austria must be seen to be believed (Pictures: Sophie-May Williams) It’s a sunny September afternoon, and I’m sitting by a lake, tucking into a ‘jause.’ A traditional Austrian spread of rye bread, salami, cheeses, and pickles are laid out before me — key ingredients for this hearty snack. Cows slosh around in the water, bells swinging from their necks, creating a serene soundtrack. It’s perfect, but it occurs to me that this isn’t the first ‘pinch-me’ moment I’ve had today. I’ve spent the morning hiking in Austria’s Tyrol region, 2,596 metres above sea level, higher than the clouds. To my left, Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak, towers in the distance. The Italian Alps to my right. Directly below, Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis: three charming villages in the Tyrolean Alps. Squint hard enough, you can see Schlosshotel Fiss, a luxury wellness retreat and my home for the next three nights. It’s a hotel and an area that most Brits (myself included) have never heard of, unspoiled by tourism and oozing storybook charm. Ask Metro Use AI to go deeper into the stories you care about – powered by Metro and trusted publications. But the best part? It’s only one hour from Innsbruck, Tyrol’s medieval capital, where easyJet flies to direct from the UK for as little as £30 one-way. Let’s explore. Untouched by tourism In Alpine terms, you’ve heard of the ‘Big Four’: Austria, Switzerland, France and Italy. While Austria boasts the largest share of the mountain range, the French Alps remain the top choice for Brits for their cross-Channel driving access. Each year, around 1.2 million British tourists flock to one of France’s popular resorts. Austria’s 980,000 is a drop in the ocean. It’s why, here in Fiss — one of the few Alpine resorts with strong warm-weather tourism, a non-negotiable as the region battles climate change — it generally feels less crowded. The exact spot I enjoyed a traditional Austrian ‘jause’ (Picture: Sophie-May Williams) Plus, with the rise of the ‘coolcation’ trend, places like the Canaries and Greece struggling with mass tourism, and more trading booze for hiking boots, the idea of an Alpine escape is increasingly appealing. Skyscanner recently revealed that global hotel searches and bookings for mountain views have spiked this year, as travellers seek outdoor activities like trail walking, mountain biking, and lake swimming. If you’re in the market for a hiking holiday, this is the place to book (Picture: Sophie-May Williams) Riding the gondola back down the mountain, where I count more goats than people, I feel like I’ve discovered a real hidden gem. Culinary autumn in Fiss I’m not just here for the views. As a food lover with a penchant for trying local cuisines, I’m also visiting during the village’s ‘Culinary Autumn’, a month-long celebration of fine food, restorative wellbeing, and flavours from this unique part of the world. On Friday morning, I head to the Beef Club, Schlosshotel Fiss’ Michelin-starred restaurant. But not to sample local delicacies like smoked trout and sauerkraut; I’m here to try my hand at a herb workshop. I’m still dreaming about this tomahawk steak and traditional Austrian kiachl (Picture: Sophie-May Williams) Lunchtime in Fiss looks like this (Picture: Sophie-May Williams) For two hours, I am immersed in the world of alpine herbs, learning to identify, harvest, and use native plants to create teas, tinctures, and balms. From there, I follow the sound of Volksmusik — traditional alpine folk tunes — to the terrace, where every sense is assaulted in the best way. Four chefs sip wine and laugh as they serve up juicy tomahawk steak with chimichurri. A pastry chef bakes kiachl in real time. I beeline for this ultimate Tyrolean comfort food: deep-fried yeast dough pastries with Preiselbeeren (cranberry jam). There are no other words than ‘chef’s kiss.’ Alpine buildings and mountains as far as the eye can see (Picture: Sophie-May Williams) Peeling myself from my seat — and this slice of heaven — I stroll the short distance into the village. There’s a harvest festival happening, and I want to live like a local. Craftspeople have set up shop in cute alpine chalets, selling everything from handmade leather-bound books to embroidered tablecloths. People spill out onto the street, drinking beer and dancing, as a convoy of colourful vintage tractors drives by. Walking and wellness Just like you can’t visit Bavaria without trying a weissbier, you can’t holiday in the Alps without spending more time outdoors than in. There’s something about the crisp, alpine air that makes you feel healthy and refreshed, even if you have just eaten your own bodyweight in pastry. A 20-minute walk from Fiss — past timber chalets and 14th-century Baroque churches — I discover Lake Wolfsee. This glacial reservoir feels like a village secret: locals picnic on wooden benches, while young children paddle in the water. It’s the perfect spot for those seeking a light afternoon walk. But after completing the wheelchair-accessible circular route, I’m ready to be back in the mountains. With my Super Sommer Card (for €7.50 per day, you get unlimited free use of all open summer gondolas and cable cars), I head into the clouds to tackle 10,000 more steps. I can’t deny that I’m desperate to try the €10 alpine coaster for an adrenaline-inducing journey back down the Alps, where an afternoon lake swim awaits. Don’t fancy a challenging mountain trek? A leisurely walk around picturesque Lake Wolfsee will do (Picture: Sophie-May Williams) Whether you’re an outdoor lover, food lover, or simply want to try a new kind of holiday, I can’t recommend an alpine getaway enough. I leave feeling rejuvenated and alive. A boozy all-inclusive could never. Schlosshotel Fiss, a glance Price: Double rooms from £465 per night. This includes SHF’s luxury board dining (breakfast, afternoon buffet and dinner). Perfect for: If you like hiking, mountain views, and good, hearty food. Standout features: The traditional alpine interior and panorama pool, filled with crystal-clear mountain water. Getting there Fly to Innsbruck from London Gatwick for £30 one-way. From there, rent a car for around £48 per day, and drive just over an hour to Fiss. On a budget? There are plenty of affordable options in the area, too. 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