The handsome Scottish harbour town with a wood-fired sauna and medieval castle

I’m always drawn to a harbour. It’s the place to sit and watch the world go by. And in Stonehaven, the Shorehead, which edges the water, is scattered with public benches, pubs and restaurants where you can stop awhile and gaze at the fishing boats and pleasure craft. This small Aberdeenshire town is a gentle pause between the steep cliffs, north along the coast from Dunnottar, one of Scotland’s most imposing castles. Its seafront stretches from the harbour in the south, past pools, recreation grounds and caravans to the village of Cowie in the north. Inland, the Market Square is the heart of the “new town”. Although there has been a natural anchorage used by sailors and fishermen for hundreds of years, it was in the 19th century, when major improvements were made to the harbour, that the town’s economy blossomed. Today, its independent shops and small-town feel make it an attractive day trip or summer weekend away. For more information, see Visit Aberdeenshire, visitabdn.com. The Essentials: How to get there and where to stay Nearest station: Stonehaven is one stop before Aberdeen (15 miles north) on the East Coast Main Line. Buses: There are frequent bus services to Aberdeen, Dundee (50 miles south) and beyond. Any local taxi journeys should never be more than £6. Stay: Perched above the town to the north, Dalriada Luxury Lodges are secluded eco houses (with solar power and sedum roofs) offering sea views. The two-bedroom lodges are dog-friendly and, although not totally accessible, they’re spacious enough to accommodate many needs. From £300 for two nights. The Ship Inn is on the harbourside, with 11 en-suite rooms above the popular bar. Some bedrooms have sea views and breakfast is served beside the picture windows of its Captain’s Table restaurant. Doubles from £95. Shorts Day one: Where to start My big walk of the weekend is to Dunnottar Castle. It’s a steep path from the harbour but the pauses allow me to take in the views and the war memorial – a granite octagon commanding the hilltop above the harbour.If ever a castle defines a defensive location, then medieval Dunnottar – perched on sheer cliffs, surrounded by sea and accessed via a path that takes a deep dive before it climbs to the entrance – is the one. The community-run Stoney Express landtrain runs at weekends (and also on Thursdays and Fridays in the summer months), making the return a little less effort. The best places to shop It’s refreshing to find so many independent businesses thriving and proudly stocking products by local artists and makers. In the streets around the Market Square, I found imaginative jewellery in Aly Bali, stylish pottery in Haven’s Treasures and a tempting range of fresh produce (not just meat) at Charles McHardy Butchers. Look out for the farmers’ market, held on Margaret Street, next to Market Square, on the first Saturday of the month – except June and January. The Stonehaven Open Air Pool is heated (Photo: Jane Barlow/PA) Must-try attractions What an art deco, Olympic-sized outdoor seawater swimming pool is doing this far north is a little bewildering until you realise it’s heated. Devotedly supported by the community, Stonehaven Open Air Pool is ideal if, like me, you’d like a saltwater dip without the beachside swimwear struggle. Note its final day opening day of the season is 6 September. Look out for winter cold-water sessions. Another community-run venture, the Tolbooth Museum offers a warm and welcoming glimpse into the past. The jumble of nostalgic exhibits is housed in the oldest surviving structure in the town, the former jail. The best place for a sundowner I follow the wooden boardwalk, lined with quirky sea-inspired scrap metal sculptures, towards the harbour, where both the Marine Hotel and Ship Inn have outside seating overlooking the busy waterfront. Where to go for dinner For fish, the place to go is the Tolbooth, with its stylish decor and big flavours. Lobster is the most popular choice but I put the chef to the test, ordering the langoustine bisque, coley, scallops and halibut, which all come with delicious, intriguing twists. Dunnotar Castle in Stonhaven (Photo: Hector Martinez/Getty/iStockphoto) For something simpler, try local favourite The Bay Fish & Chip Shop, near the outdoor pool, or the Carron Fish Bar – reputedly the birthplace of the deep-fried Mars bar. Day two: A seaside stroll At the northern end of the shoreline, beyond the caravans, is the village of Cowie. With cliffs ahead and rocky outcrops in the water, this is where the Highland Fault meets the water and exposes its geology, offering a fascinating insight into the formation of the Scottish landscape. Best places for lunch For golfers, Stonehaven’s 18-hole Baird-designed course is short but challenging, thanks to its clifftop location. I come here for The View, the clubhouse’s restaurant with a spectacular panorama and a great brunch/lunch menu, where the homemade soup is ideal after a walk on the shore. The treats at E.Giulianotti (Photo: E.Giulianotti) Best beaches Stonehaven’s beaches are very different. To the north is a long, stony strand bookended by rock pools, which you can explore for wildlife when exposed at low tide, and tucked in beside the harbour is Botany Bay, a sandy square where swimmers dip and paddleboarders swish by. On the quay, there’s a changing hut and wood-fired sauna run by Stonehaven Paddleboarding, which also offers SUP lessons and kayak and SUP rentals. Best place for a treat Ice cream in this holiday town is a must, and the choice is between a decades-old family business and a newbie 20-something bravely setting up on her own. Marjorie Stephen is the fourth generation to run Giulianotti’s near the Market Square, where whisky and treacle is a speciality flavour, while Ailsa Henry is enjoying her first season trading on the pier from her Scoops van, where I marked the heatwave with a vanilla cone.