The Cornish town with a tidal sea pool and Lithuanian beach sauna

Cornwall’s most northerly seaside town, Bude is more sedate than many of the resorts further south. Visitors have been drawn to its many fabulous beaches, especially Summerleaze, close to the centre, and Crooklets, since Victorian times. Enjoying more sunshine hours than most UK towns, Bude is frequently identified as Cornwall’s sunniest spot. People flock here, not only for beaches but walking opportunities (the 630-mile South West Coast Path fringes its shores), its laid-back coastal charm and canal. Built in 1823 to transport sand to farms in the hinterland, it stretches for more than 35 miles.Bude’s fortunes as a port declined and, eventually, its economy re-focused on tourism with the canal transformed into a leisure feature. There’s a farmers market every Friday and summer holiday events on the beach. Shorts While surfers ride the Atlantic rollers year-round, tourist numbers ramp up during spring, summer and school holidays. The town hosts regular events, such as the annual Food Festival (9 Aug) and Jazz Festival (1-4 Sept). For more information, see visitbude.info. The Essentials: How to get there and where to stay Nearest stations: Several train operators, including GWR and CrossCountry, operate services to Exeter St David’s. GWR runs from there to Okehampton. Buses: The number 6 bus runs from Okehampton to Bude. Stay: Edging Bude Canal, 18th-century Falcon Hotel is one of Cornwall’s oldest coaching houses. Managed by the same family for seven generations, many of its 29 comfortable bedrooms have been recently refurbished. All enjoy garden or canal views. Dog-friendly and accessible rooms available. B&B doubles from £149. At the other end of town, The Beach is a contemporary hotel tastefully decorated with coastal New England influences. B&B from £150 or £250 for front-facing overlooking Summerleaze Beach. Bude farmers at a craft market (Photo: Nik Taylor/UCG/Universal Images Group/Getty) Day one: Where to start the day Put on walking shoes and head for Compass Point Storm Tower, a prominent landmark across the canal from Summerleaze beach. Grade II-listed, this 19th century octagonal coastguard lookout nicknamed “Pepperpot” would have been a coastal erosion casualty if it hadn’t been moved, brick by brick, 300 feet inland over the last three years. Enjoy dramatic views of the cliff-lined ocean as you wander along the Coast Path. Best places to shop Just off Belle Vue, one of Bude’s main streets, Hannah McArdle runs Belle Craft, specialising in ocean-influenced and Tiffany glass art and jewellery (closed Sundays). Down at the souvenir-rich Lower Wharf, alongside the canal, four stone units sell fine art, handcrafted jewellery, bespoke clothing and wooden furniture. Must-see The Castle – well, in name only. Close to Summerleaze Beach, it houses the heritage centre, art galleries and café but was formerly home to scientist/inventor Sir Goldsworthy Gurney, who was instrumental in improving the brightness of lighthouses’ lamps. Bringing Bude’s history to life, exhibits include a history of the town’s demised railway and local shipwrecks. Bude canal and Summerleaze beach (Photo: Nik Taylor/Education Images/Universal Images Group via Getty) Best places for a drink Next to The Triangle, North Coast Wine Lounge sells more than 150 wines, many available by the glass, along with spirits, cocktails and snacks. Unwind with a glass on the covered terrace or the comfy inside seating. Try Passatempo vinho verde or Bude Seapool Martini cocktail, made with local gin.For sunset views, try and find a table on the terrace at Life’s a Beach cafe, which is open by Summerleaze beach until 9pm. Best place for dinner Edging Crooklets Beach, Rosie’s Kitchen, named after the owners’ daughter, has a retro diner-feel and extensive menu, including wood-fired sourdough pizzas (from £13) to Rosie’s renowned gluten-free fish & fries (£17). There’s outdoor seating and an enclosed sun deck, ice cream parlour and a sandy play area. DAY TWO: Best beaches Bude has three Blue Flag beaches. The two-mile expanse of sand at Widemouth Bay is a five-minute drive or short bus ride (no.95A from The Strand). Alternatively, reach it via the South West Coast Path.The town’s two immediate beaches, Summerleaze and slightly rockier Crooklets, are also blue-flagged, offering wide stretches of golden sand, fine surfing opportunities, beach huts, seasonal RNLI lifeguards and ramp access. On Summerleaze, charity-run AdSurf provide two beach chairs (book in advance, 07481 780235; adsurf.co.uk). Alternatively, try the Sea Pool. Opened in 1930, this semi-natural tidal pool is almost double the length of two Olympic-sized swimming pools and is free to swim in. Bude sea pool (Photo: Andrew Turner/Getty) Best places for lunch Pop upstairs in Wroes department store and grab a window seat in Ocean View Coffee Shop. As well as classic cafe fare, there’s the biggest selection of homemade cakes in town. Try lemon and pistachio.Alternatively, head down the road and sample a whopper of a pasty. Pengenna Pasties have been using a family recipe to make Cornwall’s signature dish for more than 40 years. Best places to relax Stroll along the canal towpath to the bird hide, overlooking the marshes. Keep your eyes peeled for, among others, kingfishers, herons and warblers. Alternatively, nab a seat on Summerleaze Down and enjoy glorious ocean views from this grassy headland between Summerleaze and Crooklets beaches. Best place for a final treat Book a session at Ocean Soul Sauna, Lorna Townsend’s Lithuanian-built, wood-fired sauna at Crooklets Beach. Bask in the warmth while watching the ocean through the half-moon window before taking a dip in the Atlantic. £17pp.