The characterful border town loved by Lowry with medieval heritage and a micropub

Perched above the estuary of the River Tweed, within Europe’s best-preserved complete circuit of late-medieval walls, England’s most northerly town of Berwick-upon-Tweed is a place with a split personality. The town changed hands 13 times during the Anglo-Scottish wars of the Middle Ages – a history evidenced by the Berwickers’ accent, a blend of Scottish and Northumbrian tones and words. The links to the Border Wars are reignited at the town’s railway station, where a sign states that you are standing in the Great Hall of the medieval castle where Edward I dismissed Robert the Bruce’s claim to the Crown of Scotland. Ancient curving streets and courtyards with names such as Sandgate, Shoe Lane, Woolmarket and Foul Ford retain their medieval character. Georgian architecture, meanwhile, is evident above the shop fronts. Berwick’s shops and restaurants have undergone a renaissance in recent years; it is now a lively place to visit, not least thanks to the annual Berwick Film & Media Arts Festival (held in March). Shorts The essentials: How to get there and where to stay Nearest station: Berwick is on the East Coast Mainline, about three and a half hours from London and 45 minutes from Edinburgh. Buses: Sitting on the edge of town, the station is around 10 minutes’ walk to central Marygate, though buses and taxis are also available – the latter will charge about £4.50 into town. Buses also leave from the railway station to Alnwick (X15), with its castle and gardens, and Seahouses and Bamburgh (X18) for another castle and access to the Farne Islands, “Europe’s Galápagos”. At low tide (be sure to check), the 477 makes the spectacular journey across a natural causeway to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Stay: Built in the 18th century, The Walls is a smart B&B perched, as the name implies, on the town’s walls, overlooking the River Tweed. If you’re lucky, the salmon netters will be working directly opposite, just as they have since the 12th century. All the rooms have been extensively refurbished with stylish, bright interiors. Although not fully adapted, there is an accessible room on the ground floor. B&B doubles from £135. Jennie’s Wool Studio in Berwick Upon Tweed (Photo: Visit Northumberland) The best places to shop Sugar Mountain on Marygate is a traditional shop with more than 400 jars of sweets, including local speciality Berwick cockles – a crumbly peppermint. Nearby, Bridge Street is known for its bookshops, artists’ galleries, artisan and ethical products shops. There is also a high concentration of vintage and antique shops around town, including No.1 Woolmarket, Vintage upon Tweed and 3 Bridges Antiques. The best café In the shadow of the 18th-century Guildhall, Cuppa Curiosities is a dog-friendly café designed in the style of a 50s tearoom. It is part bakery and part time machine, with a plethora of items – from prints and violins to pots and pans – on the walls, some for sale and some just to be marvelled at. The must-sees Berwick Barracks, the UK’s first purpose-built barracks, is currently underdoing a major renovation to transform it into a cultural hub. It is already home to artists’ studios and the Maltings cinema, which shows films most days. The barracks reopens properly in autumn 2027, but its temporary exhibition and museum space The Storehouse is already hosting exhibitions (Tues and Thurs, 11am-4pm) including “Resonances: Things Unseen from the Barracks”, exploring the intertwined stories and themes of Berwick Barracks, the King’s Own Scottish Borderers Regiment and the town (until 12 November). The Main Guard Museum is open 12-4pm (closed Weds and Thurs) in the only remaining guardhouse, and a new exhibition on the Burrell Collection, curated by local volunteers, opens on 31 October in the Granary Gallery. The beautiful Lindisfarne Castle (Photo: John Woodworth/Getty) The best place for a drink Hidden down a tiny alley off Bridge Street, The Curfew Micropub has an ever-changing selection of real ales and ciders, plus food including brie and cranberry sausage rolls, and DIY crisp rolls (exactly what they sound like). Dog-friendly, with a heated outside courtyard, it is popular with locals and visitors alike, so arrive early before it fills up; closing time is 9pm. The best place for dinner The Bridge Street and Hide Hill area is overflowing with restaurants, from Turkish to Italian to Indian, but the place to go is Foxtons – a local favourite with a great atmosphere. As a wine bar, there is a wide selection of bottles from which to choose, while the food menu makes great use of local seafood (I love the moules frites). Spot the seals on the Outer Farne Islands (Photo: David Robinson/Getty) The best autumn walks No visit to Berwick would be complete without attempting the two-mile circular walk along the town’s walls. The best view is from Meg’s Mount bastion, which provides superb views of the town, the Tweed estuary and autumn foliage of the Tweed Valley, the coast to Holy Island and the Cheviot Hills inland. When he wasn’t painting matchstick men in Manchester, LS Lowry holidayed in Berwick, producing more than 30 paintings of the town. To stretch your legs, cross the river via the old Bridge as part of the Lowry Trail, which follows in his footsteps, leading to the sites of some of his finest paintings and drawings, including two on Bridge Street. For a brisk pre-breakfast stroll, head along the town’s pier to spot the seals waiting for salmon to swim past on the incoming tide.