The busiest part of a suburb isn’t always its true character. This place is proof

After a seven-minute ride on Sydney’s 100 bus from the Queen Victoria Building in the CBD to Neutral Bay, a contrast emerges. Many Sydneysiders mistakenly assume that Neutral Bay is synonymous with Military Road. Loud, noisy, full of traffic lights, intersections, crowded footpaths and an incessant flow of vehicles heading somewhere else. Admittedly that crazy road is the suburb’s most visible face. Yet it belies what lies beneath.Military Road is Neutral Bay’s most visible face.George ChanWhen you get off the main artery, Neutral Bay reveals a very different side; hidden pockets of activity, places for play, harbourside walks and tables perched at the water’s edge. The natural beauty, energy and unexpected pleasures of the suburb reveal its surprisingly relaxed, carefree character.An easy stroll down Barry Street and you find the 140-year-old Neutral Bay Club, where you can play tennis, pickleball or barefoot bowls, all under stunning palm trees. It prides itself on its casual vibe, delicious eats and drinks and of-course yappy hour (dogs welcome, Tuesday-Sunday 5-6pm). Any afternoon here means the slowing of time, immersing yourself in nature.Neutral Bay beach.Paul RovereOr visitors could consider a cold dip at Hayes Street Beach.George ChanThe newly refurbished Cammeray Golf Club has social play every day, open to the public. The course – which we locals like to call “Royal Cammeray” – has nine par 3 holes and any skill level is genuinely welcome. The clubhouse now has live music on Friday nights, and thanks to the recently opened Lusso Kitchen, dinner or lunch is available from Wednesday through Sunday. Don’t be put off by the expanded expressway and any noise, the short course is challenging and also surprisingly quiet.After all this activity, you could consider a cold water dip at Hayes Street Beach – yes a harbour foreshore beach in Neutral Bay that is open to the public. I haven’t swum there myself but braver souls do!At the harbour foreshore is the brilliantly casual waterfront cafe Thelma and Louise, where they serve the best scrambled eggs in Sydney. If you are after a casual waterside meal with good friends, wine and a locals’ view of Sydney Harbour, you can’t go wrong.Thelma and Louise,George ChanThelma and Louise, left, with the Hayes Street Beach, right.George ChanIf gluten-free is your thing, the newly opened Wholegreen Bakery serves the lightest pastries. Founder Cherie Lyden now has several bakeries across Sydney where every item is 100 per cent gluten-free and coeliac accredited. Their coffees are also excellent. Further up the street is 5 Loaves 2 Fish cafe – here you will taste the best chilli crab scramble ever.The dining options in the heart of Neutral Bay are plentiful. Grosvenor Street is now a burgeoning foodie precinct, home to many cafes and restaurants that have the benefit of all day sun and gentle evening ambience, just one street away from Military Road. For Italian lovers, a few relatively new establishments are worth a visit. Pocket Pizza has arrived from the northern beaches with its New York-style pizza. Then there is Enoteca 128, an upscale Italian eatery and wine bar with an extensive wine list of over 300 curated wines. The newest edition is Trattor, which opened its doors in June and the neighbourhood Farinas, which allows you to bring your own wine.Enjoying a drink at the 140-year-old Neutral Bay Club.George ChanIf you are looking for something other than Italian, Grosvenor Street has alternatives. We are fans of Bombay Bloomers and their delicious Indian dishes. There is also the recently opened Japanese – Fujitori Yakitori & Sake Bar – a smaller, timber lined restaurant with a curated sake list. And if your group is large, the Neutral Bay institution that is Kyushu is great for family and friend gatherings.If you feel like walking off all of this lovely cuisine, you can head downhill and follow Kurraba Road for more scenic harbour views. Here there are wonderful vantage points to see Sydney Harbour Bridge – particularly Spains Wharf Lookout and further along Kurraba Road, Hodgson Lookout Park, which sits at the tip of the peninsula. These walks make up the broader network of harbour-side walking tracks connecting many reserves and lookouts around the peninsula, taking you through to Cremorne Point, Mosman and onto the stunning areas around Balmoral Beach.As you walk through the residential streets of Neutral Bay you come to appreciate its architectural heritage. So much of the suburb was built between about 1890 and 1915, during the Federation period. This architecture is infused with much of the Australian way of life – deep verandahs, curved timber fretwork, tall ceilings to cool the houses and Australian native flora featured in stained-glass windows. The homes are worth a wander through these streets.As you head home, you may want to try a different form of public transport and jump on a ferry at Neutral Bay Wharf, which is a 10-minute downhill walk from Grosvenor Street and a 10-minute ride from Circular Quay. Ferries run every hour.Neutral Bay Wharf.Jacky GhosseinReading on the wharf.George ChanNeutral Bay occupies a sweet spot in Sydney’s geography with immediate access to the city and yet a distinctly local identity. As you think about a visit, consider how often we assume the busiest part of a suburb is its true character. Here, visitors and residents enjoy tree-lined streets, a thriving dining and café culture and a relaxed sense of community – increasingly rare in major urban centres. The distance from the city is short yet the shift in perspective is much greater when you choose to look beyond the surface.Suzi Skinner is a leadership advisor and executive coach.