Swap skiing in the Alps for a faff-free trip to Sweden's uncrowded slopes - with ski-in, ski-out lodges, heaps of snow and even the Northern Lights

Swap skiing in the Alps for a faff-free trip to Sweden's uncrowded slopes - with ski-in, ski-out lodges, heaps of snow and even the Northern Lights

Let's face it, family ski holidays in the Alps can be a faff with all those lengthy 'are we nearly there yet?' transfers. So hearing that new flights have begun to a recently opened airport close to the resort of Stoten (pronounced 'stir-ten') – one of Sweden's best-loved ski areas – my family jumped at the chance.Not far from the border with Norway, Stoten boasts a ridiculously short transfer time (20 minutes from baggage belt to chairlift), excellent ski-in, ski-out accommodation and some of Europe's most snow-sure conditions. What, on the face of it, is not to like?But will a Swedish ski holiday really be less faff than the Alpine resorts that we have previously tried?Curious, but not initially convinced, my family (partner Holly, and our two children, Ivy, aged five, and one-year-old Albert) touch down at the remote Scandinavian Mountains Airport to go skiing the Swedish way.We are travelling with Ski Scandinavia, a specialist operator that has recommended the newly built Stoten Ski Lodge, right beside the resort's key ski lift.It's perfect, decorated in modern Scandi style and featuring, we are happy to discover, a well-organised ski and snowboard hire centre… easy peasy, all done in half an hour.Ski passes await in our three-bed, self-catering apartment. We have added these to our package, as well as equipment rental, ski lessons and a husky-sledding tour. Andrew Day headed to the Swedish ski resort of Stoten with his family They stayed at the newly built Stoten Ski Lodge, located beside the resort's key ski liftThe first day sees Ivy join a beginners' group (for ages four to six) and Holly an intermediate class, both lasting 90 minutes. Albert is too young for childcare (children must be over three), but he happily settles for sledging and snowball-making with me, followed by fika – the noble Swedish tradition of taking a break for coffee and cake.In the afternoons, I hit the slopes. For the most part, the 50 runs are gentle, tree-lined and blissfully uncrowded, with the odd feisty descent.There are 26 miles of terrain – tiny compared with 370 miles in France's Three Valleys – and the prices reflect that: £210 for a six-day adult lift pass with under-sevens skiing free. In the Three Valleys it's £355 for adults for six days. Lessons go well. Lovisa, Ivy's English-speaking instructor, has endless patience, and the pair hit it off immediately. By day two, Ivy tentatively manages to snow-plough, occasionally tumbling but bouncing straight back up.'We rode the button lift today,' she's soon telling us, and she has made a new best friend named Bobbi.Stoten is a purpose-built resort, half a century old. It may not have the old-time charm of Kitzbuhel or Zermatt, but is car-free, friendly and convenient – everything is within a ten-minute stroll, including a supermarket, bars and restaurants.Prices are (fairly) reasonable. In Brasseriet, an apres-ski haunt, a glass of wine is £8, while Alvans pizzeria does margaritas for £12. If you fancy flaskschnitzel (pork schnitzel), that'll set you back £23. Or you can barbecue your own hotdogs and burgers for lunch at public huts with firepits (as canny locals do). They had a 'great Scandi trip' and found everything at the resort was within a ten-minute strollScandinavian Travel reports bookings for Scandi ski holidays increasing by about 20 per cent a year. To meet this growing demand, Tui and easyJet have launched new winter flights to Scandinavian Mountains Airport.My ski tuition comes courtesy of Luka, a German expat, who notices I'm making overly dramatic pole plants. We wind down Familjebacken, an exhilarating blue run punctured by pine forests, then tackle a surprisingly steep red, as I take on board his useful tip.Holly's skiing begins to improve markedly, helped by the super-quiet, confidence-boosting slopes.Stoten's five black runs are sadly closed due to mild temperatures, and our dog-sledding trip is cancelled.The resort has a world-class snowmaking system, however, and the main pistes are well-covered. Instead of sledding, we spend a relaxed evening at Vattufjall, a large swimming pool complex with saunas and tenpin bowling.On the final day at the ski school award ceremony, Lovisa presents Ivy with a certificate, and the instructors dance with Wolfy, the cuddly resort mascot. We celebrate Ivy's success by licking the cream off a steaming hot chocolate.To top it all off, in the evening, we catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, the mysterious shifting colours illuminating the sky behind our hotel.It has been a great Scandi ski trip… and so little faff. TRAVEL FACTS A week in a three-bed apartment at Stoten Ski Lodge on April 5 from Gatwick is from €1,665pp based on two adults and two kids (ski-scandinavia.co.uk). Ryanair flies to Gatwick from Dublin from €30 (ryanair.com).

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