Shoulder Season on Paros: Ceramicist Christiane Smit Finds Inspiration at a Slower Pace

The artist and operator of Moonhouse villa shares her secrets to getting under the skin of an island we're more familiar with in summer.Getty ImagesThis is part of Off-Season Greece, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Greece's most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. In this edition, we speak to ceramic artist and owner of Moonhouse, Christiane Smit.For Netherlander and artist Christiane Smit, a holiday on Paros in 2008 rerouted the course of her life. “It wasn’t a carefully planned life decision, it was something I felt instinctively,” she says of her unplanned move to the Cycladic island. “I listened to that feeling, stayed, and started building a completely new life on the island.”Christiane Smit is a ceramicist and the owner and operator of Moonhouse, a clifftop villa rental. Michelle OspinoHaving lived all over the island since then, she now operates a ceramics atelier in the village of Lefkes and owns the stunningly minimalist clifftop villa rental Moonhouse—both of which are open to visitors. She is currently completing the restoration of a nearly 100-year-old stone house in the village of Kostos. Here, the now-local shares the shoulder-season delights that keep her on-island year-round as well as her favorite hotel-slash-taverna for a warming meal and stay.The charming streets of Lefkes Getty ImagesWhat would you say is the sweet-spot time of the year to visit—when the travelers have not yet arrived, but local life is buzzing?For me, the sweetest time in Paros is late spring or early autumn. The island feels wonderfully balanced: Everything is open, but life is still unhurried. I love walking through the villages in the morning, when the streets are still quiet. The air smells of jasmine, fresh bread from the bakery, and the sea. You hear church bells, neighbors greeting each other, and the wind moving through the olive trees. The light is what inspires me most. It changes constantly, making the whitewashed houses glow and bringing out every texture in the stone. As a ceramic artist, I find myself collecting those colors, textures, and moments every day. They’re as much a part of my work as the clay itself.Moonhouse's modern yet warm interiors incorporate the scenic clifftop views. What do you love most about being there during this season?The season allows me to slow down and notice everything. The colors of the landscape, the textures of old stone walls, the shifting light on the sea—those details naturally find their way into my ceramics. I don’t have to look for inspiration here; I simply have to pay attention.Who’s around this time of year? Is it all locals? Greek domestic visitors? Are there any travelers at all?It’s mostly locals. The cafés are filled with familiar faces, fishermen are heading out in the morning, and shop owners have time to stop and chat. You also meet a small number of travelers: The people who aren’t looking for the typical summer vacation, but who want to experience the island more slowly and authentically. There are also Greek visitors escaping the city for a long weekend or visiting family. It’s a lovely mix, but the locals set the rhythm, and that’s what gives Paros its real character.Moonhouse's modern exterior and rugged garden Michelle OspinoThe view from the outdoor pool at Moonhouse Michelle OspinoWhat’s notable about the locals in Paros; do they have any of their own unique traditions or a reputation amongst Greeks for anything in particular?What I’ve come to appreciate most about the people of Paros is their warmth and sense of community. Even though it’s a popular island in summer, life outside the season is very local. People know one another, and there’s a genuine willingness to help each other. As someone who lives here year-round, that’s something I’ve really come to value. There’s also a deep respect for craftsmanship—from marble carving, for which the Cyclades are famous, to fishing, farming, and handmade work.A vase made by Christiane Smit working in her studio Where would we find you eating during this time?One of my favorite places is the family-run taverna at Hotel Julia in Drios. I love it because it feels authentic and unchanged—a place where generations have welcomed people with simple, honest food and genuine hospitality. My perfect day always starts with a swim in the crystal-clear waters just below the taverna. Afterwards, I walk up for a long, leisurely lunch. There’s something so special about sitting there, the sound of the waves below and nowhere else to be.The patio of Hotel Julia in Drios What’s the seasonal dish to order at this time of year?Winter on Paros is the season for revithada (slow-baked chickpea stew), hearty bean soups, and goat or lamb braised with local wine—dishes that are more like daily specials rather than menu staples. But if there’s one meal that defines the island’s quieter months, it’s whatever is cooking in the pot that day (mageirefta). That’s what locals order, and every taverna has its own depending on the day.A sailboat at sunset in Paros Getty ImagesAre there any areas of the island that really come alive during the off-season?I wouldn’t say any one area suddenly comes alive in the off-season; it feels more like the island returns to its natural rhythm. While Parikia is the social hub for year-round residents, it’s the villages—Lefkes, Marpissa, Prodromos, Kostos, and Dryos—that reveal the character of Paros through seasonal festivals, religious celebrations, and community events.Paros is known for its sandy shores and sparkling sunsets, which makes it popular with international and domestic tourists alike. Christiane SmitHow does the weather change the destination during this time of year, and what are the (dis)advantages of that?You get cooler temperatures; crisp, sunny days; and the occasional rainstorm, which turns the landscape unexpectedly green. The island feels softer and more vibrant. For me, one of the greatest advantages is the sense of calm. Of course, there are a few trade-offs. Stronger winter weather systems can occasionally disrupt ferry schedules, and many seasonal businesses close until spring. But these are minor inconveniences.Goats and sheep on a hillside walk in Paros Christiane SmitWhat does a perfect Saturday in the off-season look like to you?My perfect Saturday begins slowly with a coffee in my house, catching the first sunlight. From there, I’ll often wander through Lefkes, Marpissa, or Prodromos before a long lunch at a traditional taverna. In the afternoon, I usually head back to my ceramic studio. The quieter months are when I’m most creative. Without the intensity of the summer season, there’s space to observe, reflect, and create.At sunset, I love taking a walk along one of the beaches or coastal paths. Even in winter, there are many clear, sunny days, and the light over the Aegean is extraordinary. I usually end the day with friends over a simple meal and a glass of wine.White buildings scattered on a lush hillside in the idyllic village of Lefkes Tuomas A. LehtinenDo you have any favorite activities during this time of year?I love walking the ancient Byzantine paths that weave between villages. With few people on the trails, the silence becomes part of the journey. This winter is especially meaningful, as I’ll be putting the finishing touches on a small renovation project in the village of Kostos, a space I’ve been shaping with the same care and intention that I bring to my ceramics. Creating a home is, in many ways, another form of making, and I find great joy in both!This article was originally published in Condé Nast Traveller UK.Chadner Navarro is Manila–born, New Jersey–based writer who covers travel, food, and design. You can follow his travels on Instagram. ... Read More