Raw Denim vs. Regular Denim: Which Is Actually Worth Buying?

4 min readI COME FROM the denim era where streetwear juggernauts like FUBU and Rocawear reigned supreme, along with mall favorites like Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister. I was in my preteens rocking all these clothing brands and you couldn’t tell me their baggy-stacking-at-the-shoe jeans weren’t the flyest on the market. Since I began working as a fashion editor, I’ve practically worn every pair of jeans in the denim universe. Slim, relaxed, stretch, washed, distressed—you name it, I’ve probably tried it. I’ve even tried my hand at denim-making in Japan, the mecca of old-school, high-quality denim, where I produced my own pair of selvedge jeans. Denim is one of those rare items in a guy’s wardrobe that never goes out of style.And after years of being in the menswear space, I’ve gotten familiar with the nuances that distinguish one kind of denim from the next. Two worth knowing are regular denim and raw denim. Raw denim usually looks darker, stiffer, and more uniform in color, while regular denim has a softer feel and a more broken-in appearance with visible fading or whiskering from factory washing and finishing. Those differences also affect how each pair feels when you first put it on and how it changes over the years. Here’s what to know about both and which one deserves a spot in your rotation.What Is Regular Denim?Regular jeans are usually made by weaving cotton yarn into denim, then cutting fabric into patterns and sewing them together to create the finished garment. These jeans have already gone through washing or finishing treatments to soften the fabric and give them that broken-in look, so you don’t have to spend weeks waiting for them to feel comfortable. If I want to throw on a pair of jeans and get on with my day, this is the kind I’m reaching for. I also like that you can find them in practically every fit and wash, whether you’re after a clean, dark indigo pair or something faded and lived-in. Most everyday options from brands like Levi’s and Wrangler run roughly $40 to $100, while designer and premium styles can cost considerably more. For me, prewashed denim makes the most sense when you want that comfortable feel from the jump. There’s nothing wrong with skipping the break-in period and getting straight to the good part.I like raw denim because you get to see how jeans change the more you wear them. Unlike prewashed jeans, raw denim typically hasn’t been washed after the dyeing and manufacturing process, so it typically arrives stiff, dark, and pretty rigid. One thing to watch out for, though, is dye transfer. Indigo can rub off onto lighter-colored clothes, shoes, and other materials, including suede. I’ve had this happen before, so I'd be mindful of what you wear with a fresh pair. But that’s part of the appeal for denim enthusiasts. As you wear it, the fabric softens and develops fades and creases based on how you move, sit, and live in your jeans. You’re essentially breaking them in yourself, which makes the finished look feel uniquely yours. Prices can start around $60 to $100 for entry-level options and climb to $150 to $300 or more for premium denim, particularly Japanese-made styles. I’ll admit, the break-in period takes some patience, but if you enjoy watching your jeans evolve over time, raw denim is worth considering.Raw Denim vs. Selvedge Denim: What’s the Difference?Raw denim and selvedge denim get lumped together all the time, but they actually refer to different things. Raw denim describes the fabric’s finishing state: It’s typically sold without a post-production wash that softens the fabric or creates a faded look. Selvedge, on the other hand, refers to how the denim is woven, creating a clean, self-finished edge you can often spot by rolling up the cuff. You can have raw selvedge denim, washed selvedge denim, or raw denim that isn’t selvedge at all. Having made my own pair of selvedge jeans in Japan, I’ve seen firsthand how the construction differs. Once you know what to look for, the distinction is pretty easy to spot.VerdictAt the end of the day, I don’t think you need to drop $300 on raw denim to dress well. After years of working in menswear, I’ve learned that a higher price tag doesn’t automatically make something the right choice for your wardrobe. I’ve seen guys look just as good in an affordable pair of Levi’s as they do in premium Japanese denim. What matters more is finding comfortable jeans that fit your body and work with the clothes you already own. I’m always going to appreciate the quality craftsmanship behind a great pair of raw denim, but there’s no single right way to wear jeans. I think every guy should have one dependable pair, whether that’s raw or prewashed. But ultimately, like most things in style, it comes down to personal preference—and knowing what works for you.More of Our Favorite JeansBest Jeans for Men | How to Wash Jeans | Best Black Jeans for Men | Best Jeans Under $100 | Best Flannel-Lined Jeans | Best White Jeans | Best Dad Jeans | Best Jorts | Best Denim ShirtsAs the Style and Reviews Editor for Men's Health, Joseph covers all-things fashion and grooming. Previously, Cheatham was a commerce editor for Spy, and he has written for Travel + Leisure.Christian is the Style and Reviews Director at Men's Health and Women’s Health, where he oversees shopping and style content for both brands. He started his magazine career as an accessories assistant at Vogue, and has since held editorial roles at Tatler Asia and The Manual. When he’s not online shopping, you can find him on long walks with his two corgis.