Nelson German Has a Recipe for Shaking Up the Oakland Restaurant Scene

German, 45, grew up in the Washington Heights neighborhood of Manhattan, a cultural enclave for the Latin Caribbean community. In 2010, he relocated to the San Francisco Bay Area, his wife’s hometown. German says the culture shock coming from “Nueva Yol”—where it seems there are members of the Afro-Caribbean diaspora on every block—was jolting.When homesickness hit a peak, German decided to harness the nostalgia and embrace his cultural heritage by honoring “the ingredients I missed the most” in his restaurants, alaMar Dominican Kitchen and Sobre Mesa.“As chefs, to be recognized—at least back in the day—we were always taught to focus on European-centric food,” German says. “That [was] the only way to be well-known, to get the recognitions, to get the awards. That’s not true anymore.”What has now earned German a Michelin recommendation and recognition from the James Beard Foundation is his innovation of traditional Afro-Latin dishes without compromising the flavorful Caribbean spice the culture is known for—in spite of the notion that fine dining must serve a flatter, Western palate. German’s promise to deliver cuisine authentic and accurate to history and cultural memory is in line with what he believes is a growing trend among chefs of color: deviating from the mainstream to create culinary experiences that are culturally and regionally hyperspecific. The latest addition to German’s distinct offerings is the Ethiopian and Dominican fused Meski, a collaboration with entrepreneur Guma Fassil and Golden State Warriors forward Draymond Green, which opened in April 2025. “We’re telling a real story,” German says.The story that he wants to define his legacy is one of community, whether it’s nurturing young minds through culinary training programs or fostering togetherness through Caribbean fare. His first book, Caribbean Cocktails: Drinks and Bites from the Afro-Latino Diaspora, released in June, offers modern takes on familiar libations and is meant to inspire readers to “host the way we do it, as Caribbeans,” German says. Maintaining ancestral traditions is how he honors Sankofa, the Ghanaian principle adopted widely throughout the African Diaspora: “You always look back and celebrate your past while always continuing to move forward, and moving forward with love and kindness,” German says. “Always giving tribute to the people that paved the way for you.”