My small-ship Hebrides cruise with tiny islands, sea swims and stunning sunrises

“I’ve always loved boats and I cannot think of a better way to explore Scotland’s remarkable Hebrides than on a small ship,” says Colin Craig, co-owner of cruise operator Majestic Line, as I board the Glen Shiel. He’s right about the Hebrides being remarkable. As a travel writer I’ve sailed all the world’s oceans and – hand on tartan heart – nothing trumps Scotland’s island-studded, savagely beautiful, western littoral. I’d take the Hebrides over the Hudson Bay, Scotland over the more southerly Scotia Sea, anytime. Small ships like this one are able to go where the big boys can only dream – close enough to dolphins, basking sharks and orcas to have Sir David Attenborough calling his cameramen. When the tender ramp drops, it reveals the kind of starched white beaches you might find in an ad for a Caribbean holiday. The fact we’re cruising the Hebrides on a small ship at all is due to a quirk in Scottish maritime law, whereby vessels of 12 passengers or fewer are categorised as private parties rather than cruises, which eases restrictions. Crucially, it also cuts costs. Otters can be spotted in the waters off Scotland’s west coast (Photo: Alex Cooper/Getty/iStock) In 2004, friends Andy Thoms and Ken Grant seized upon this legal quirk and set up Majestic Line, converting two former fishing boats – the Glen Massan and Glen Tarsan – for cruising. “People thought we were mad, that no one would want to cruise Scotland like this and we couldn’t make it work,” Grant once told me aboard the Glen Massan. Those people were wrong on both accounts – so wrong that the Glen Etive, purpose-built in Scotland, was launched in 2016, followed by the Glen Shiel in 2019. All four vessels carry a maximum of a dozen passengers. When family-owned company Craig of Campbeltown bought Majestic Line in 2024, there was some concern among faithful former passengers. But Craig and his team talked to crew and experienced the cruises for themselves before making any changes. They upgraded the four vessels to give them a smooth New England maritime ambience, adding new tenders to make trips ashore even easier. The peaks of the Isle of Skye, seen from a beach on the Isle of Rum (Photo: imageBROKER/Steven Slater/Getty) The ship and destination would be reason enough to book the six-day Skye and the Small Isles cruise, but the crew are another selling point. Skipper Iain, engineer Calum, hostess Celeste and chef Neil (everyone ends up on first name terms) not only run a tight ship, but palpably enjoy their jobs as well as the location. One morning before breakfast when I’m working on my laptop, Celeste and Neil join me on deck to savour a stunning Hebridean sunrise. On the (always-open) bridge, seasoned sailor Iain can’t hide his love of the cobalt waters, shimmering isles and papier-mâché-esque peaks that unfurl around us. “I’ve been fortunate to sail all over, but I’d have a hard job looking past the Hebrides,” he says. “The scenery is incredible and every day feels different. This is the one place on the world’s oceans that still feels magical to me.” It’s not only Iain who’s bewitched. The American and Canadian passengers have found the Scotland of their wildest Hollywood-fuelled dreams – perhaps more rugged than they expected, but even better for it. I’m most struck by the English couple, though – they spend the first half of the trip jaw-dropping at the views, the second half cursing themselves for not “discovering Scotland like this sooner”. Tobermory, with its colourful waterfront, was popular with Robin’s fellow passengers (Photo: WhitcombeRD/Getty/iStockphoto) I bash ashore in the first tender at every opportunity to ramble up hills I don’t even know the names of before taking bracing sea dips. Other passengers are content just to relax in the ship’s spacious lounge, easing ashore only when we’re in Mull’s postcard-pretty town of Tobermory, with its colourful, shop-kissed waterfront. The route is always a moveable feast depending on weather, sea conditions and tides. On this cruise, we make several stops on Skye and venture to Rum in the Small Isles, as well as the isolated Knoydart peninsula, home of Britain’s most remote pub. Wildlife accompanies us everywhere we go. One breakfast is rudely interrupted by a sleek, dark otter, splashing around just off our stern in search of his own breakfast. All too soon we’re bidding farewell to a world of smouldering sunrises and distant isles over yet another dinner starring local produce. Over the course of the cruise we’ve enjoyed wild venison bourguignon, plump, hand-dived Orkney scallops and Hebridean lobster. The final night brings another highlight: mussels Celeste, tendered over to collect from a farm on crystal-clear Loch Spelve. Freshly caught local seafood is served onboard (Photo: Jamie Simpson) Back on the pontoon in Oban, we’re greeted by Julie Reece, Majestic’s operations manager. I ask how things are going and she’s clearly delighted to tell me of the company’s plans to add a fifth vessel – another purpose-built small ship. “We need it as so many of our guests book again. And again,” she says. It’s not hard to see why. How to do it The Majestic Line offers various cruises along Scotland’s west coast and around Orkney. Prices start from around £1,360 for three nights, including all meals, wine with dinner, excursions and transfers within Oban. More information visitscotland.com