My majestic Arctic adventure with Northern Lights, eagles and a polar plunge

Wings beating the cold air and slicing through the silence is the first thing I notice. As the white-tailed eagle approaches from behind and swoops low over our small boat, I instinctively duck. For a split second, I can see every detail of its broad wings – tipped with distinctive splayed “fingers” – dark plumage and piercing eyes before it glides effortlessly away. Another follows, then another, circling above the sheltered waters off Svolvær before settling on craggy outcrops. Seeing Norway’s largest bird of prey, also known as the sea eagle, at such close quarters is thrilling. It sets the tone for a nature-filled week. As our small boat heads back to Svolvær, the largest town and unofficial capital of the Lofoten Islands, three minke whales surface nearby. It’s an unexpected bonus that draws gasps of delight. I’m travelling on a seven-night Arctic Norway itinerary with cruise line HX Expeditions. Our trip has a Northern Lights focus, and we’re sailing on the recently refurbished MS Spitsbergen. Seeing white-tailed eagles was a highlight for Jeannine Williamson (Photo: Sjo/Getty) Carrying just 150 passengers, it is small enough to venture into places inaccessible to larger vessels, holding onto the adventurous spirit from which such voyages sprang. In 1896, Hurtigruten founder Richard With started pioneering sailings from Hammerfest in northern Norway to Svalbard. They were the early forerunner of modern expedition voyages. In 2021, Hurtigruten divided its operations to differentiate between Norwegian coastal sailings and expedition itineraries; then, two years ago, HX split ties with Hurtigruten. Our voyage begins and ends in Tromsø, more than 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. The city’s history as a base for explorers still feels tangible in attractions such as the Polar Museum. I also visit the Troll Museum, a light-hearted introduction to Norwegian folklore, before stepping aboard the ship and being kitted out with specialist outdoor clothing that’s an essential part of the voyage. Each day brings a different way to experience Arctic Norway. On the tiny island of Tranøya, only accessible by boat and with no roads or cars, we strap on snowshoes and set off through woodland. Snow clings to every branch, making the trees glisten as though dusted with crystals. Apart from the rhythmic crunch beneath our feet, there is barely a sound. Hardy sheep descended from Viking stock wander nearby. Tromsø is more than 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle (Photo: Avatarmin/Getty) As daylight fades, the lights of MS Spitsbergen shimmer invitingly below us and herald the prospect of another dinner, either in the ship’s main restaurant or cosy bistro. There’s a sociable atmosphere on board as passengers swap tales of the day’s adventures. The itinerary balances active adventures with quieter moments. Some of us travel ashore in expedition boats for walks suited to different abilities, while others prefer to stay near crackling beach fires with mugs of hot soup, gazing across pink skies towards jagged mountain peaks. Back on board, members of the expedition team enrich outings with fascinating talks on topics such as the life of locals on remote Norwegian islands, while optional citizen science projects allow guests to contribute to ongoing research, including helping to collect water samples for analysis. History is woven into the journey, too. In Stokmarknes, the birthplace of the Hurtigruten line (founded in 1893 to connect Norway’s isolated coastal communities), we enjoy exclusive evening access to the beautifully preserved Finnmarken steamship, housed inside a striking glass museum building. Complete with an onboard post office, delivering mail to coastal villages, the vessel sailed from 1956 to 1993. A costumed storyteller brings Hurtigruten visionary Richard With vividly to life. Dinner in the original Finnmarken restaurant is followed by a stirring performance from a local choir. While the songs are sung in Norwegian, the choir master explains how the lyrics reflect the town’s deeply embedded maritime traditions. Jeannine braved a polar dip in Svolvær One experience, also in Svolvær, pushes me well beyond my comfort zone. A floating wooden sauna building, overlooking MS Spitsbergen’s docking spot, provides welcome warmth before the infamous polar plunge. Eventually, I step out into the snow, grip the icy handrail and lower myself into the freezing water. The shock is immediate, stealing my breath, but back in the sauna, wrapped in a towel, numbness gives way to exhilaration. A certificate signed by the captain later appears outside my cabin, a satisfying souvenir of my brief moment of Arctic madness. Shorts Experiences like this, along with daily activities and the Finnmarken evening, are all included. A handful of excursions, such as the sea eagle trip, which is around £120, are extra. As we head back towards Tromsø, nature still has one final surprise, which is completely free of charge. During dinner – with menus showcasing local dishes such as creamy fish soup, slow-cooked lamb stew and Kvaerfjordkake, Norway’s national cake made with almonds and vanilla cream – the captain announces the Northern Lights have appeared. Plates are abandoned as passengers hurry on deck, wrapped in whatever warm clothes come to hand. Above us, ribbons of green light ripple across the inky night sky. HX Expeditions has a Northern Lights promise under which passengers are offered credit towards another cruise if they don’t spot them on a dedicated aurora sailing (Photo: Roberto Moiola/Getty) If the spectacle doesn’t materialise, HX’s Northern Lights Promise provides passengers with a £1,000 credit each (£500 for children aged two to 15, who sail on a 50 per cent discount when sharing a cabin with two adults) to put towards another voyage. But, for me, the majestic sea eagles are the highlight of the cruise. The Northern Lights dazzle, the polar plunge is a real adrenaline rush and the scenery is extraordinary, but nothing compares with hearing the powerful thrum of wings overhead before watching those magnificent birds drift on the Arctic air above the Vestfjord. They perfectly capture the spirit of this expedition: wild, authentic, and deeply memorable. How to do it Several airlines offer direct flights from the UK to Tromsø. The writer was a guest of HX Expeditions. Its seven-night Ultimate Norway – Arctic Expedition under the Northern Lights itinerary, sailing round-trip from Tromsø, costs from £3,565pp for travel between January and March and November and December 2027, including daily excursions and activities, meals, drinks, an expedition jacket, a digital photo album and video of the voyage, Wi-Fi and tips. travelhx.com/en-gb/