My Favorite Airbnb: An Architect's Antique-Filled Porto Apartment With a Secret Garden

My favorite type of Airbnb is one that acts as an extension of the host’s own home—perhaps they own the building and live in the apartment upstairs, or in a nearby house on the property—allowing guests to interact with the host while still maintaining a sense of privacy.While this homestay-esque setup was once the foundation of Airbnb, it has become increasingly common for listings to instead be managed by third-party rental property companies. This means your only interaction with the “host” might be anonymous lockbox instructions delivered via the app’s chat function.This is not the case at Casa Astória, a soulful jewel box of an Airbnb in Porto, Portugal’s second-largest and increasingly trendy city. Francisco, a Porto-born architect and superhost with 14 years of hosting under his belt, owns the apartment building and lives on the top floor with his wife and newborn. Upon arrival, I quickly met him and Hydra, his friendly Bernese mountain dog, in the shared backyard, where he apologized profusely for not greeting us sooner due to a doctor’s appointment. Shortly after, he shared a long list of local restaurant recommendations and authentic attractions tucked away from the city’s more over-touristed corners. In short, we hit the host jackpot. (He also runs another Airbnb, a two-bedroom flat with views of the river, in the same building.The foyer in the apartment building Courtesy of AirbnbFrancisco’s attention to detail can be seen all throughout the apartment, which is housed inside a historic 1830 building that he renovated. The building's sunlit foyer is a treasure trove of vintage rugs, antique furniture, and shelves lined with museum-worthy collectibles. Stepping into the one-bedroom “Arts Apartment” that was to be our home for the next few days, we found that while it leaned more aesthetic than functional, the location and garden made up for the compact floor plan and lack of closet space. For a three-night stay with little time spent inside, living out of our suitcases wasn’t a deal breaker.During the rare moments when we did stay in, we felt right at home thanks to the earth-toned walls and art, and thoughtful design details which gave the apartment a warm, lived-in feel. The kitchenette is rudimentary with a mini fridge, stovetop (no oven), a sink, and a few cooking essentials, including two different coffee makers. In the same room, there's a two-person wooden dining table and a small but comfortable leather couch. Sunlight filtered through the living room's large window during the mornings, and come nightfall, the vintage stereo system and Bluetooth radio were a total vibe for getting dressed up for dinner with a glass of wine.In the bedroom was a full-size bed with lovely linens and comfortable enough pillows. The shower and sink area didn't have a door (it was separate from the toilet, which thankfully did offer a door and privacy), but the water temperature and pressure were great. I was traveling with a friend, so for some privacy, she kept all her belongings in the living room, and I kept my suitcase in the bedroom. (Years ago, we were roommates together in Spain and thus accustomed to sharing tight quarters!)All in all, considering the apartment's central location, beautiful design, and wonderful host, we walked away feeling that the price was very fair and the space was accurately advertised. Because of the size, it's best for solo travelers and couples (or friends who, like us, are willing to sacrifice personal space for the plot).The best perk by far was the garden, a shared space with sweeping views of the city and river below. The outdoor seating area (you can request extra chairs if needed) became our sunny sanctuary for coffee in the morning and reading in the afternoon; a welcome reprieve after long days of exploring.As this was my first time in Porto, the Airbnb’s location in the central neighborhood of Sé was ideal. The apartment sits atop the Escadaria dos Guindais, close to the Luís I Bridge, where tourists often pose for pictures. While the noise from the street would at times bleed into the living room, the bedroom was quiet, and our sleep was never disturbed by late-night foot traffic. This prime address is within walking distance of the bustling river district, the village of Gaia, and popular attractions like the Catedral de Porto and Mercado do Bolhão. But there are plenty of hidden gems tucked along Sé’s steep cobblestone streets, too. One night, we stumbled into a pop-up art exhibit called “State of Alavanca” put on by a collective of young local artists in the ruins of an abandoned building; another night, we walked down to the river’s quieter side for an authentic Portuguese dinner at À Bolina Bar, where we enjoyed our favorite wine of the trip (which is saying a lot, considering we visited vineyards in the Vinho Verde and Douro Valley).The view of the garden from the bedroom window Hannah ToweyThe entrance to the apartment building Hannah ToweyWith United Airlines’s recently extended non-stop route from Newark and Delta’s direct flight from JFK, getting to Porto from the US is easier than ever. The next time I return, there will be no better welcome than heading to this Airbnb to see Hydra curled up by the front door.More of our editors' favorite Airbnb stays: