Monica Galetti: At 51, I’m ready to take a breath

“My faith is everything – it’s what gives me hope,” Monica Galetti tells me. “I was always Christian and went to church, but I drifted in my teenage years and during my career. Thankfully, He didn’t give up on me and came back in my life when I needed it. It has literally saved my life and my family. The peace that He brings… I wish it on everyone.” The placid, thoughtful woman I connect with over Zoom is a far cry from the intimidating and exacting chef so many of us are familiar with. Born in Samoa and raised in New Zealand, the chef and TV presenter is best known as a long-standing judge on the BBC’s MasterChef: The Professionals, where her hard stares and candid feedback have the power to make grown men tremble. But it is a characterisation that she feels no longer fits. “Maybe in the early years, but I like to think people see me as firm but fair. I love to have a great time in the kitchen, but there comes a time when you need to focus.” Shorts Galetti moved to the UK in 1999, at the age of 23, to train and work under Michel Roux Jr at his two-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gavroche. She quickly climbed the ranks to become senior sous-chef, becoming the first woman to hold that position, and remained in the role until 2015. In 2017, she opened her own London restaurant, Mere, with her husband, David, which closed two years ago. In addition to producing exquisite plates of food, working in some of the UK’s most demanding kitchens equipped her with other skills that have helped her through life. “It taught me resilience and how to deal with certain situations,” she says. “But it was an environment in which I flourished and grew – I was so hungry to learn as much as possible. And I made some great friends in the industry who are still friends to this day. “My advice to young chefs,” she adds, “is to get yourself in a great kitchen and find a great chef who can mentor you. Leave the bad days behind and focus on the positives. And show your longevity instead of flipping from one kitchen to another.” It was in 2009 that she joined her own mentor, Roux Jr, as a judge on MasterChef: The Professionals – a role she retains to this day. The subject of her fellow judge Gregg Wallace and former host John Torode, who were both sacked from MasterChef after a raft of historic allegations, is firmly off the table today – Galetti is here to talk family, and what it means, and has always meant, to her cooking. Monica is perhaps best known for her TV career (Photo: Yuki Sugiura) She met her husband, David, a French sommelier, in 2001 while they were both working at Le Gavroche. The couple have one daughter, Anaïs, who is soon to turn 20. After nearly a quarter of a century together, what is her secret to making a relationship last? “Communication is really important,” she begins. “And being patient – him more so than me. He has taught me a lot of that. Whatever you are going through, always remember that you are on the same team and that you are in it together for the long run. Don’t leave things unresolved. And never go to bed angry.” Family is at the heart of her fourth cookery book, Gathering. Split into accessible chapters, such as small plates, seafood, meat and poultry, and vegetable-led dishes, it is packed with recipes that have shaped her life. From the flavours of her Samoan heritage to dishes inspired by her travels through France, Greece, Sri Lanka, Japan and beyond, it is international inspiration for anyone stuck in a cooking rut. “Cooking the food I grew up with makes me feel closer to my parents,” she reflects, “it’s nostalgic. And writing the book has made me more grateful for the childhood I had and the people who raised and supported me. “Those times are so taken for granted. Hindsight’s a great thing, isn’t it? If only we could wind back time. I had so many happy times as a child on the beach with my parents fishing or being in the garden picking my dad’s tomatoes.” Asked to single out a definitive Samoan dish she would like to introduce to Britons, Galetti finds it a challenge. “There are so many to choose from. Oka would be a great one [a fish dish similar to ceviche] – and the pani popo. Pani popo are similar to brioche buns – you bake them in coconut milk so that as it cooks, it soaks it all up. It’s just delicious.” When it comes to feeding a crowd with minimal drama, Galetti is resolute. “Preparation is everything – have as much done as possible in advance, so all you need to do is reheat. Have things that you can put on the table beforehand and that people can start nibbling on. Make sure the table is pre-set.” But while preparation is key, perfection, she insists, is not. Social media has created a new way to measure our “success” in the kitchen, with creators showcasing perfectly landscaped dinner tables, matching crockery and pristine dishes. It is not something that Galetti holds much truck with. “I’d hate to think that people are worried about making food perfect at home – for me, perfection is for the professionals,” she says. “Home cooking is not meant to be perfect. The most joyous meals I’ve had with family and friends are things that have been thrown together with leftovers, old favourites or something simple like roast lamb.” When it comes to successful hosting, Galetti insists it is all about the people you gather together. “What makes people feel welcome is the warmth that you bring,” she says. “If you don’t know the other people, it can be awkward, so it’s important to choose wisely who we gather with, while also trying to break that barrier. Offer something to break the ice – whether it’s a little snack at the beginning or have things laid at the table that start a conversation and help people relax a bit.” At the age of 51, it is no surprise that Monica’s relationship with ambition has shifted (Photo: Yuki Sugiura) Reflecting on her early TV career, Galetti admits that she wishes she had relaxed more herself and cared less about what other people thought. “That’s where I am now,” she says with a smile. “But in the early days of television, we didn’t get any training at all, be it press training or preparation for what happens when you’re suddenly in the public eye. I’ve been very blessed with the opportunities that have come my way, but I’ve also been encouraged not to be afraid of trying different things when they come my way. I’ve learnt not to limit myself to one thing – you might be surprised where it leads you.” At the age of 51, it is no surprise that her relationship with ambition has shifted. “I’m ready to take a breath,” she says. “Time is now a luxury that I have – and I really appreciate it. I feel very fortunate to choose what I want to do and who I spend my time with. And when you hit 50, you do think: ‘Yeah – I can ease off the pedal a bit’ and truly live, as well as doing the bits that I enjoy doing. “I don’t miss the stressful, sleepless nights of being in the business and wondering what’s going to happen tomorrow. I’m very grateful to get here.” Combining her love of food and travel, Galetti has also hosted the BBC’s Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby since 2017. After visiting some of the world’s most extraordinary hotels, which does she think are worth the splurge? “There are so many special places, but I truly believe it’s the people behind them that bring the heart to them,” she says. “ “The Hassler in Rome is very classy and has an incredible history. And Ashford Castle in Ireland is very special. I know there are lots of modern hotels, but the history some of these buildings and the grounds have are so beautiful. And the warmth of the Irish is second to none. I’ve never been to another breakfast where they give you a big hug then offer you a whole side of salmon.” ‘Gathering’ by Monica Galetti is published by Pavilion and is available to buy now