'Massive growth' of second-hand fashion apps in Australia

Jess Gilliland knows how to find a steal.Used to thrifting for cheap while living in Berlin, she decided to give online second-hand clothing marketplaces a crack after moving back to Australia."The benefit is obviously circular fashion. I think especially if you do want to buy those cheaper things, just buying it second-hand … it's obviously better for the environment," Ms Gilliland said.Jess Gilliland says she spends "a lot" on resale apps. (Supplied)She says most of her wardrobe is pre-loved, and estimates she's bought about 200 items over the past six years across eBay, Depop and recently, Vinted.She's one of millions worldwide using these resale apps to buy and sell their clothes with a tap of a phone."I think for me, it's more a time thing … I don't want to spend eight hours on a Saturday or Sunday going between stores."These platforms offer the same rush as finding the perfect piece on an op-shop rack without ever stepping foot in store; their algorithms presenting endless options on social media-like grids."The good thing about doomscrolling on [resale apps] is that it's a bit less chaotic for the mind … not getting the rage bait and slop content I'm getting on other platforms," Ms Gilliland said."Not good for my wallet though, because I do spend a lot."An area of 'massive growth'Australia has a complicated relationship with clothing.In 2024, think tank The Australia Institute found we were buying more clothes per person than any other country, surpassing America as the world's biggest consumer of textiles per capita.Aussies were reportedly buying an average of 56 new clothing items a year, it said, much of which was fast fashion destined for landfill.These apps offer the convenience and familiarity of online shopping, but with second-hand clothes. (Supplied: Depop)Over time, second-hand clothing has been making a small but noticeable mark in this landscape.The second-hand market is estimated to reach a value of $1.5 billion by 2032, according to market research platform Credence Research. "I think that more people are learning about the impacts of fast fashion and wanting … [to keep] more clothes in circulation for longer," writer and podcaster Maggie Zhou said.Maggie Zhou says resale apps encourage shopping from your "neighbours or people around the world". (Supplied)Depop, which is popular with Gen Zs, says Australia is one of its "fastest-growing markets globally".Earlier this year, Depop was sold from Etsy to eBay."There's a big money spend happening behind … [the apps] right now and they're focusing on the Australian market specifically," second-hand seller and micro-influencer Lillian Scott said.Just some of Lillian Scott's collection. (Supplied)"It does feel quite cool to be in the centre of all that and this industry being recognised as a place of massive growth."The Australian market has been clocked by competitor Vinted, which expanded Down Under in July with no selling fees and temporarily discounted shipping.Vinted's communication manager Guen de Mello said the company was "confident we have a strong proposition for Australian consumers," including its international sale connections."There might be Australian brands and styles with cultural cachet that aren't easy to find in the UK or vice versa, and the second-hand market is often exactly where that discovery happens."Ms Zhou said Vinted's arrival in the country was a milestone."They are one of the biggest resale platforms, especially over in Europe," she said."So it feels like now Australia is part of the global fashion conversation."Vinted launched in Australia this month. (ABC News: Marcus Stimson)However, while promoting sustainability, these apps can still encourage overconsumption."I think that this is still applaudable, the fact that a lot of us are buying more second-hand clothing," Ms Zhou said"But I don't think it is replacing our desire to buy fast fashion. "I think a lot of us are guilty of overconsumption, whether that is for new or second-hand clothes."It can be easy to purchase things that are ultimately unwanted, Mr Gilliland said."Like it comes two weeks later and you're like, 'Oh, I should have waited on that'. Especially for people that are as impulsive as I am."'Saturation of the industry'Depop users are currently adapting to a raft of updates, including the removal of PayPal, and lingering debate over the practicality of its offer system.As of July 22, selling fees were also axed and replaced with a "buyer marketplace fee" of up to 5 per cent on top of orders. The changes have been divisive online, and a spokesperson acknowledged they could "take time to adjust to"."Our goal is to make buying and selling second-hand as straightforward as possible, while continuing to invest in features that improve the overall experience," they said.Lillian Scott says she hand-picks everything she lists for sale. (Supplied)Ms Zhou said these apps helped users shop "from essentially our neighbours or people around the world".It's a sentiment shared by Ms Scott, who scours thrift stores and flea markets here and abroad for curated items to list for sale."What we are providing is actually this easy access to stuff," she said."Every single piece of clothing I've ever sold, I have hand-picked ... I'm always on the hunt."To keep up with the expanding market, she's expanding her store across three other platforms."I feel a lot of pressure to keep up with it all," Ms Scott said."I think the saturation of the industry potentially, the outcome will be more work for us as a seller, like, it would just make things more complicated.Ms Scott said while the apps had their faults, they had "cultivated something quite unique and special" for the community."Despite my grievances, I have nothing but love for all the apps," she said.