London Hotspot Berenjak Just Opened Its Third, And Perhaps Best, U.S. Location

Max BurkhalterIt only takes a few moments—say, between 30 seconds and a minute from passing the host’s stand—inside Berenjak’s new Chicago outpost to realize the space is dialed in to the highest degree. This is Berenjak’s twelfth location, ninth public (Brooklyn and the Cotswolds are exclusive to Soho House members), fourth in partnership with Soho House, and the third location stateside. It sits just above the house's ground floor bar in the city’s hot Fulton Market District. And everything about it feels like the most true-to-the-original edition we’ve gotten this side of the pond.The location is part of a meteoric rise that only started eight years ago with a cramped (founder Kian Samyani does not mince words about the original location’s footprint) spot in Soho. Berenjak Chicago runs with the efficiency of restaurant number twelve, but it has a lot of the heart that the original location has.Max BurkhalterThough well-sized, the new Berenjak Chicago location feels as intimate as the original Soho location.It’s not small, around 50 seats at a glance, but it feels intimate. The two tops are close enough to scout dishes as they come out next to you, but not so close as to feel like you’re sharing a table. There’s a lovely six-top in the middle of the room. And, about one-third of the seating is at counters, one facing the charcoal grill in the kitchen and the other facing the bar. Three-quarter café curtains on the one wall of windows keep the eyes within the space, and a mostly candle-lit dining area makes the room feel smaller (charmingly smaller) than it actually is. There’s a lot going on; this is a serious operation, but it’s laid out in a way that doesn’t feel too different from that kababi in Soho.But the real difficulty when scaling restaurants is the menu. Here, Chef Samyani has the team playing all the hits. The Kabab Koobideh, restaurant’s cornerstone minced lamb and onion kebab, still holds top spot, and just below it is the chicken Jujeh Kabab. The Jujeh Kabab Tond—meaning spicy—adds a bit of a kick, more up-front spice than lingering spicy, to the chicken kebab. Though the real stars lie within the bread and mazeh section. The black chickpea hummus is divine, a lot deeper and more earthy than your standard chickpea spread. Of the masts—traditional Persian yogurt spreads—the Mast O Khiar is my favorite. With cucumber and mint, it’s a fresh bite that stands out with all the deep flavors of the meat-heavy menu.Max BurkhalterThe mazzeh—yogurts, hummus, and fresh spreads—are the standout bites.Max BurkhalterAs with every location, live-fire kababs are the centerpiece of the cuisine and the layout.One of the most interesting bits about Berenjak Chicago is that it has an expanded wine list, and it brings over a few of its classic cocktails that were previously exclusive to the UK locations. The big callout is the Olive Leaf Martini, which gives the a bit more of an oily texture, similar to a potato vodka martini, that lets it go down incredibly smooth. The best on the menu, for my money, is the Grown Up Doogh, which adds gin to Iran’s favorite yogurt drink. Like the cucumbers, it just adds a lovely tart hit that complements all the fatty meats and spices. Then, there’s the Phel Phel Margarita, which is a nice homage to Soho House’s spicy margarita. The rich, sweet Fig Leaf Old Fashioned is sweet and gets a spot on the dessert menu next to black tea.Max BurkhalterThe olive leaf martini, formerly exclusive to the UK locations, is available on the Berenjak Chicago menu.Since this location, like the Los Angeles version, is open to the public, it should immediately go onto any and all Windy City food and drink lists.