Jesse Mulligan Reviews Angeline, The Mysterious Mediterranean On Victoria St

Victoria St may be home to the country’s hardest-to-find Mediterranean restaurant. But Jesse Mulligan thinks the food is worth the search. I knew Angeline would be a little offbeat, simply because of how I found it. An industry friend commended it as “seriously worth a look” but there were You really have to want to find this place, but once you’ve trudged up Victoria St and weaved your way through various roadworks, you’re rewarded with a string of pretty fairy lights and some outdoor tables that signal you’ve arrived. Angeline is the night-time identity of Scarecrow, a Mediterranean deli of some years standing and not at all spooky.Angeline is the night-time operation of Scarecrow Deli. Photo / Babiche MartensIn fact, the overall vibe is of eating dinner in somebody’s living room. The two waiters are the mother and daughter owners’ husband and boyfriend, who both affect a quaint 20th-century approach to service – chatting about this and that but retaining an elegant formality on all matters regarding food and wine. The latter is something of a speciality, with dozens of bottles open on a table near the front door. They’re spread out on a white tablecloth, and each has its own tiny and distinct tasting vessel to help them keep track of what they’ve poured and who they’ve poured for.Price per glass is steep but by the bottle it’s a steal. How does that work? Is he pouring 250ml glasses?“You know I’ve never really thought about it,” the husband replied. “I suppose I should some day.”Given that they have no media profile and that walk-ups basically need to be wearing crampons, I was delighted to see the place reasonably busy. A couple of graduates, a happy family, two tourists who spoke not a word of English but seemed confident they could achieve their dining goals by staring blankly at the waiter every time he asked them something. The host reckoned most people find the place through word of mouth, and the food was good enough that I believe him.The slow-cooked pork terrine on the menu at Angeline. Photo / Babiche MartensThe menu is French and fairly classical, with a few twists introduced by an executive chef who trained under Georges Blanc, owner of France’s longest-running Michelin-starred restaurant. With that background, you know the technique will be near perfect; the only question is whether you’re in the mood for this style of cuisine on the night. Though the menu looks a little plain on paper, the dishes are much more ambitious and beautiful than their descriptions suggest.Angeline's strawberry and tomato tart. Photo / Babiche MartensI ordered a tomato tart, expecting that the tomatoes would be cooked in some form. But I was surprised by one of the most beautiful spring dishes I’ve encountered. A flaky pastry base is layered with soft goat’s cheese and then heaped with a bounty of multicoloured tomatoes, and even a few slices of strawberry. They spill out over the plate and the simple combination – fresh acidity with tangy creaminess – was a true delight. I did struggle logistically with the pastry’s texture – like trying to pick up Weet-Bix crumbs with a knife and fork.The other entree was a terrine, beautifully presented with a little Dijon on the plate and, balanced on top of the meat, a range of elegantly assembled pickles: sliced cornichons, mustard seeds, green peppercorns and cocktail onions.They offer three different steaks but all of them are eye fillet. Crazy times. I chose filet mignon No 3 and it arrived sliced and perfectly rare, with a lovely peppercorn sauce and little else. This was the one dish that definitely was as simple as it sounded but there was not a single thing to complain about. If you’re in the city and feel like steak, you can’t miss here.Angeline's snapper bouillabaise. Photo / Babiche MartensUnaccountably, this dish was served before my bouillabaisse, and when the latter arrived a long time later, missing the “aromatic vegetables” promised on the menu, it felt like something fishy was going on, and it wasn’t the snapper. But the dish was, again, technically perfect – a fillet laid skin-on and skin-up over a thick, peachy-coloured soup with huge seafood stock flavours.I was too full for the creme brulee my friend had recommended, but they insisted I try a truffle made by their pastry chef. It was so good – intensely chocolatey, springy to the touch – I regretted not ordering dessert.Angeline restaurant in Auckland's CBD. Photo / Babiche MartensWalking away from this restaurant, I decided the thing I liked most is that it is unlike any other place you’ll eat. Even the best new restaurants arrive on an established spectrum where almost every element is familiar in some way, but Angeline seems like it’s been invented from scratch. As far as I know, the proprietors haven’t run a restaurant before, and though that no doubt affects outcomes from time to time, it adds an individuality to the experience which is increasingly hard to find.ANGELINECuisine: French bistroAddress: Scarecrow, Victoria St West, Auckland centralContact: 021 424 294, angeline.co.nz Reservations: AcceptedHours: Thursday to Saturday, from 5pmDrinks: Fully licensedFrom the menu: Tomato tart $24; country terrine $26; snapper bouillabaisse $40; eye fillet $70; creme brulee $23Rating: 16/20Score: 0-7 Steer clear. 8-12 Disappointing, give it a miss. 13-15 Good, give it a go. 16-18 Great, plan a visit. 19-20 Outstanding, don’t delay.More restaurant reviewsAccording to Dining Out editor Jesse Mulligan.