I’ve walked every National Trail – these are my favourites for autumn

This week, I completed my final National Trail on the Coast to Coast Path, walking across the Lake District to finish in St Bees. I started a quest to walk all of the National Trails in 2007 on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and as I reflect on my journey, I have concluded that autumn is my favourite walking season. These are the Goldilocks months; temperatures are just right, accommodation is easier to find, and paths are not too busy. With more than 6,000 miles and 21 National Trails, passing through the finest landscapes in Britain, there are endless possibilities for exploration before the nights draw in further. Views across Grangelands from the Ridgeway footpath (Photo: Robin Bush/Getty/Photodisc) The Ridgeway Start/Finish Either return to Wendover Station (five to six mile circular), or continue to Tring Station (eight to 10 miles) Accessibility Can be muddy; accessible path networks from the visitor centre The Ridgeway passes through the Chilterns, a National Landscape (also known as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) with several woodlands and ridgeline paths to explore. In among the predominant beech trees, you will find oak and the occasional yew, all of which add to a warm and rich tapestry of colour. Catch a train to Wendover and kick through the fallen leaves as you head towards the visitor centre, with the nearby dramatic views from Haddington Hill, the highest summit in Buckinghamshire.If you are very lucky, you may catch sight of one of Europe’s smallest birds, the year-round resident Firecrest, as it hunts for insects in the undergrowth. Ending the day at Tring makes a great linear walk; follow the National Trail acorn waymarks from the south of Wendover Woods to the station. Pembrokeshire Coast Path Start/Finish Whitesands Bay Car Park (three miles, including Carn Llidi, two-mile beach walk) Accessibility Rough coastal paths, some exposed. Flat hard sand beach. The coastline of Pembrokeshire can be beautifully tranquil or a dramatic tempest in the shoulder months, so it’s wise to prepare for the excitement of maritime weather systems and Atlantic swells. Such drama can be found at St Davids Head and Whitesands Bay, where you can explore heather-lined rugged coastal paths in search of a sheltered spot in the cliff, to marvel at the flying skills of the gulls, and hopefully catch sight of harbour porpoises or dolphins. The Whitesands Beach House café offers simple refreshments before you explore the sandy beach, which will blow away the remaining urban cobwebs. On a clear day, climb to the summit of Carn Llidi for views to Ramsey Island and the remote lighthouses in the Irish Sea. The Offa’s Dyke Path in Wales (Photo: Visit Wales) Offa’s Dyke Path Start/Finish Tintern Abbey (three-mile circular/12 miles to Monmouth) Accessibility Muddy paths, steep climbs. Paved paths from car park. The Wye Valley woodlands above Tintern Abbey, which hides Offa’s Dyke National Trail as it heads north to Prestatyn, is perhaps one of the UK’s finest destinations for autumn colour. Take a circular route up to Devil’s Pulpit to be immersed in ancient woodlands and stupendous views over the Cistercian abbey ruins. Every autumnal hue will be on display as the leaves on the beech, oak and lime trees respond to shorter, colder days. Those with greater ambition can walk to Monmouth, an excellent base for exploring this landscape. A trip to Symonds Yat (a 30-minute drive from Tintern), offers the best views of this iconic valley. Shorts Southern Upland Way Start/Finish Galashiels to Peebles, 23 miles (13 miles to Innerleithen) Accessibility Rough moorland old military roads and forest tracks. The Southern Upland Way is a challenging coast-to-coast route that takes you through the Scottish Borders moorland and forests, where you will find solitude among stunning scenery. The section between Galashiels and Peebles (also using the Border Reiver’s Path junction near Innerleithen) would keep fit walkers happy for a day. Climb to The Three Brethren and follow the thistle waymarks west. The rich purple and russet patchwork of heather blends with the forests and farmland vista that opens up as you reach these imposing triple cairns. Afterwards, rest in Peebles and perhaps time your arrival for the annual Woodmarket and Tree Festival in October, which hosts the Scottish Conker Championship. Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland (Photo:: FotoGablitz/Getty/iStockphoto) Hadrian’s Wall Path Start/Finish Once Brewed circular (three to four miles), Housesteads to Greenhead linear (12 miles) Accessibility Muddy paths. Paved paths from visitor centres to forts. Hadrian’s Wall is one of the most popular National Trails, and the section to the west of Housesteads Roman Fort to Milecastle 41 is spectacular in autumn. The green pastoral fells to the south contrast with the golden brown and purple heather to the north as each landscape responds to the season. You might recognise the views across Crag Lough as you head towards Steel Rigg, where the energetic may continue further to Greenhead Hotel for a well-deserved pint after a glorious day. This walk marks the northern extent of the backbone of England as the Pennine Fells give way to the Kielder Forests and vast expanse of the Northumberland National Park. Don’t forget to explore Vindolanda and Housesteads museums to imagine the lives of our Roman occupiers 2,000 years ago. The Sill, a National Landscapes Discovery Centre, lies on the B6318 near Once Brewed (or curiously signposted Twice Brewed if driving from the west) and is another excellent starting point. The road to Thixendale in the Yorkshire Wold valleys (Photo: Richard_Pinder/Getty/iStockphoto) Yorkshire Wolds Way Start/Finish Many circular routes from Thixendale and Warter; alternatively, choose a bicycle route (yorkshirewoldscycleroute.co.uk/hockney-trail-a-cyclists-route) Accessibility Muddy paths after rain, quiet country roads for cycling. When walking the Yorkshire Wolds Way, I often had to stop and contemplate the disconcerting feeling that I had just walked into an exhibition of paintings by David Hockney. What better tribute than to seek out the locations of many of his famous works? His genius was capturing that feeling of joy in the beauty of the natural world. While he painted all seasons, the autumnal works resonated strongly with my experience of walking this route. The sections near the village of Warter (Bigger Trees Nearer Warter, 2008) are worth exploring, as are the dry chalk dales that can be found around Thixendale (Three Trees near Thixendale, 2007). Most villages retain a traditional pub, where the local passion for pie-making complements a foaming Yorkshire ale perfectly; try The Gait Inn at Millington. The pretty town of Helmsley in Yorkshire (Photo: joe daniel price/Getty/Moment RF) Cleveland Way Start/Finish Helmsley (eight-mile return to the Rievaulx Abbey) Accessibility Good paths, some muddy after rain. Quiet roads. The Cleveland Way is both a coastal route along the North Sea and a moorland escarpment of the North York Moors. The final section into Helmsley passes by Duncombe Park Estate and Rievaulx Abbey. A good day could be spent walking east from Helmsley, using the English Heritage website map to reach this famous building, set in a valley surrounded by woodlands. Thousands of wading birds in Snettisham, Norfolk (Photo: Dan Kitwood/Getty) Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path Start/Finish Many linear routes; use the Coasthopper and Coastliner bus services to join the coastal path between Brancaster and Cley next the Sea. It is a four-mile walk at Snettisham from the RSPB car park at Shepherd’s Point to the bird hides. Accessibility Good quality paths, paved routes at wildlife centres. Autumn is the time for bird migration, as the geese arrive for the winter and the breeding birds head south. The Norfolk Coast is alive during these months, seen both from the coastal paths and the reserves run by the Norfolk Wildlife Trust and RSPB. If the tides are right, you may even catch the “spectaculars” at Snettisham, which hosts both Norfolk and England Coast Paths National Trails. Early mornings and late evenings are ideal times to look. Late autumn is the time for seal pups to be born, and a few tours will take you to the remote beaches that cannot be easily reached by foot. In the evenings and early morning, listen for the wink-wink call of the pink-footed geese, which have started to arrive from the Arctic. Autumn colours in Grasmere (Photo: joe danielprice/Getty/Moment RF) Coast to Coast Path Start/Finish Use a base at Grasmere or Patterdale to explore the C2C path and surrounding fells. The Shap to St Bees C2C is a 60-mile multi-day hike. Accessibility Rough fell walking, exposed. Mountain conditions require preparation, good boots/clothing, and navigation experience. The 21st and latest National Trail is unique in running through three National Parks: The North York Moors, The Yorkshire Dales and The Lake District. If you live nearby, these landscapes will keep even the most intrepid busy for a lifetime. The Lakeland Fells at this time of year can reward the early riser with dreamlike temperature inversions, where the clouds float in the valleys and make you feel as if you have entered another world. Pretty Painswick in the Cotswolds (Photo: by Andrea Pucci/Getty/Moment RF) Cotswold Way Start/Finish Cranham Car Park (three to four mile circular routes, or eight to nine miles to Painswick. Accessibility: Good paths, no stiles, some steep sections What could be more beautiful than an autumnal evening illuminating the Jurassic limestone of a Cotswold town or village? Painswick is a fine example, complete with a churchyard with 99 yew trees. It lies a few miles south of Cooper’s Hill, famous for the annual cheese-rolling competition.Marvel at the steep descent where competitors fall headlong in pursuit of a wheel of Double Gloucester, then explore the nearby woodlands, including the Cotswold Commons and Beechwood National Nature Reserve. A quick look at an OS Map will reveal circular routes you can adjust to suit your schedule. Martyn Howe is the author of ‘Tales of the Big Trails’ and ‘The Coast is Our Compass‘, recalling the experience of walking the UK National Trails and the coastline of England.