I’ve been visiting Sweden since the 90s – these are my favourite places for summer

I’ve been visiting Sweden since the 90s – these are my favourite places for summer

With seaside saunas, rugged trails and endless evenings, I’d argue that no one does summer better than the Swedes. Since my first school and family trips from Finland to Sweden in the 90s, I’ve returned regularly since, exploring the country from Arctic Lapland in the north to the archipelagos of the east and west coast. These are my six favourite places to enjoy Sweden in summer. Hälsingland The beautiful Gastgivars Farmhouse (Photo: Paula Hotti) The softly rolling, forest-covered hills of central Sweden create a tranquil setting for slow experiences. One of the loveliest towns in Hälsingland province is Järvsö, a three-hour train journey from Stockholm. In summer, Järvsöbacken hill is a perfect spot for downhill cycling or gentle strolls. Hälsingland is also renowned for its Unesco World Heritage-listed farmhouses. Built by 17th- and 18th-century farmers, their interiors are elaborately – and sometimes inventively – painted (imagine painting a wall to resemble marble cladding without ever having seen it in real life). Four of the farmhouses – Erik-Anders, Gästgivars, Fågelsjö Gammelgård and Stenegår – can be visited, and with their cute shops and cafés, they make a lovely outing on a summer’s day. Shorts Ramvikslandet islands in Sweden (Photo: Paula Hotti) Ramsvikslandet Nature Reserve This coastal, rocky paradise on the west coast translates as “Kingdom of Rocks”, and it lives up to the name. I discovered the region while living in Gothenburg, from where it’s a 90-minute drive along the picturesque west coast. The entire stretch is a summer idyll where you’ll find pretty fishing villages, such as Fjällbacka and Smögen, as well as islands buzzing with locals and visitors enjoying the long days. For me, though, the allure is in the landscape of windswept coastline and cliffs. Wallåkra Stenkärlsfabrik ceramic workshop (Photo: Apeloga) Skåne For foodies, the Skåne region in southern Sweden makes a brilliant destination, with Helsingborg as a base. The walkable city and century-old seaside bathing houses create an idyllic setting for a summery escape. After a sauna and a dip in the sea, hop on an e-bike and cycle for about 30 minutes to Lottenlund Estate to sample the lovingly produced wines. There are nine commercial vineyards in this area, which is known as Terra Skåne, and some of the wines have been served at the Nobel Banquet. Cycle back to Helsingborg, then continue 15km to Wallåkra Stenkärlsfabrik ceramic workshop, dating from 1864. The clay is sourced directly from the surrounding area, shaped by hand and fired in a coal-fired kiln. The setting by a stream is picturesque, and there is a restaurant on site to fuel up before the ride back to town. The best part? Skåne’s near-flat terrain makes cycling very easy. The traditional fika kanelbulle is a type of cinnamon bun (Photo: Paula Hotti) Arctic Sweden Swedish Lapland, and especially Abisko National Park, is often cited as one of the best spots on Earth to see the Northern Lights. But what keeps me returning is not only the winter magic, but also the remote landscape, dotted with isolated cottages and crisp lakes and ponds, which has year-round appeal. The classic hike here is the 450km-plus (280-mile) Kungsleden, which I still hope to tackle in full some day, but shorter sections are available. The most popular of these runs from the village of Nikkaluokta to Saltoluotka, a distance of 102km (63 miles). Svenska Turistföreningen, the tourist association, provides hiking huts along the trail. The most evocative area in Swedish Lapland, however, lies in the far north, close to the Norwegian border, where parts of the grey cliffs and mountainsides are covered with heather and dwarf birch, typical of Arctic tundra landscapes. Sitting here and simply taking in the vast, seemingly empty landscape feels like a quiet luxury. Views of the Stockholm archipelago (Photo: Paula Hotti) Stockholm archipelago Sweden has the most islands of any country in the world (267,570, to be exact), and the Stockholm archipelago is a summer playground for city dwellers, who make the most of the season at their holiday cottages (so book accommodation early). The Stockholm Archipelago Trail opened in 2024, covering 270km (168 miles) of hiking trails connecting 20 islands, with remote seaside scenery, lovely little towns and some farmland. And last year brought the opening of Nämdöskärgården, a marine national park, covering around 1,000 islands, islets and skerries in the eastern reaches of the Stockholm archipelago. My favourite island is Sandhamn, at the 59th parallel north. It has a harbour town filled with charming wooden houses, and a windswept coastal path, part of the Archipelago Trail, which at times curves inland among the tall pine trees. Views of Kullaberg nature reserve (Photo: Visit Skane/ Apeloga) Kullaberg and Kullen Lighthouse Drive 90 minutes north of Malmö (or 45 minutes from Helsingborg), and you will find a dramatic stretch of coast that feels slightly Mediterranean, with small, rocky bays and bright-blue sea glittering behind the trees. Head to Kullaberg Nature Reserve for deer and other forest creatures as well as dramatic cliffs rising from the sea and the 15m-high Kullen Lighthouse, which is Scandinavia’s most powerful. While the stone and brick structure dates from the turn of the 20th century, there has been a lighthouse on this spot in some form since the 1560s.

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