Inside the extraordinary Portugal hotel designed by Christian Louboutin in the 'Hamptons of Europe'

Stepping into Vermelho Melides, I can’t help feeling like Alice entering Wonderland. From the outside, this 13-room boutique hotel in the sleepy Portuguese village of Melides looks like a stately, whitewashed old manor house.Yet as soon as you cross its threshold, you are quickly disabused of that notion.It’s an extraordinary place, with a dramatically patterned mosaic courtyard featuring Gaudi-esque mouldings on the walls and a delightfully bonkers look.The daring decor continues in the lobby, where splashes of nail-polish red – you’ll know it from the soles of a famous brand’s shoes – gave a hint that the man behind Vermelho, which means ‘red’ in Portuguese, is none other than the French footwear designer Christian Louboutin.His personality is evident throughout the hotel. Bespoke artworks, tiled bathrooms, antique furnishings and whimsical touches galore provide a quirky and defiantly individual style.In the glitzy, OTT, red-and-gold cocktail bar, I meet the manager, Vera Goncalves. ‘It may not be the fashion world’s first foray into hotels,’ says Vera. ‘But whereas Bulgari, Armani and others have married design with corporate hospitality, Mr Louboutin has made this a personal expression.’ Boutique hotel Vermelho Melides was designed by Christian Louboutin and includes a striking exterior mosaic courtyardIt was built from scratch and opened in 2023. But what is a place of this glamorous pedigree doing in such an unexpected, rural location?‘It’s not touristic here at all, but we are surrounded by an international community of architects, artists and other creatives,’ Vera replies. ‘They’re drawn, like Mr Louboutin was, too, by the region’s natural beauty and gentler rhythm.’These attributes have caught the eye of many wealthy outsiders, with luxury villa developments springing up around Melides and its better-known neighbour, Comporta, on the coast.Think Costa Terra Golf and Ocean Club, a 700-acre-plus members-only enclave linked with names such as Princess Eugenie, George Clooney and Nicole Kidman. Even Harry and Meghan are said to have a home nearby, drawn by the privacy of this laid-back region.Such real estate has put this coastline on the map for American homebuyers, who are calling this Europe’s answer to the Hamptons, the upmarket seaside destination just outside New York. Melides and its neighbour Comporta have been dubbed 'Europe’s answer to the Hamptons' The low-key coastal spot has lured in celebrities including George Clooney, pictured with wife Amal, and Nicole Kidman Melides is a sleepy Portuguese village on the Alentejo coast of Portugal with a beautiful lagoon Inside, it's all luxurious trimmings and the signature red colour most recognised from the bottom of Louboutin shoesFar more accessible are the wave of large but low-density luxe resorts, many of which are wellness-focused in step with the slower pace of the Alentejo region.One of these is Spatia Comporta, a nature-based retreat with 103 villas and cabanas scattered among pinewoods and heathland – where I’m staying.My cabana is huge and has its own outdoor shower and yoga terrace, while the main pool, gym and restaurant (the health-conscious breakfast here is a genuine highlight) are just a woodland stroll or bike ride away.It is also a 15-minute drive to the nearest beach, where mile after mile of deserted butterscotch sand sweeps into the distance. The beaches closer to Comporta are far livelier, with parasols, loungers and beach clubs such as boho-chic Comporta Cafe bringing a seaside buzz.Given the jetset calibre of the resorts and villas hereabouts, I am pleasantly surprised to find that prices are not stratospheric. But that’s perhaps what underscores this area’s appeal. Everything may be fancy, but the vibe is one of quiet indulgence rather than Dubai-style bling.True, Comporta may have had a ‘glow-up’ – the village is packed with concept stores and decent restaurants – but its authentic charm remains. Comporta beach is one of the most stunning in the Alentejo region - and comes with seom dramatic Atlantic coast waves Make sure to try an arroz (rice) dishIt sits on the edge of an estuary which teems with shorebirds and flamingos under vast, open skies. Storks nest on rooftops and electricity pylons, from where they fly down to feed in the rice fields around which this low-rise, white-and-blue village was founded.The thing to order here is an arroz (rice) dish. Made with Comporta-grown short-grain rice teamed with Atlantic seafood or locally harvested shellfish, they’re the Portuguese version of paella – and are delicious. Better still, they’re also great value (from around £20pp), which seems reasonable for such a fashionable destination.Of course, you can spend a lot more if dining at one of the fancier beach clubs, but I love how there is still lots to experience that does not come with an A-list price tag. And although the region is rapidly becoming a playground for the super-rich, its affordably priced appeal still endures – and it’s all the better for it.