I’m a cruise expert – this new boutique French sailing offers great-value luxury

I’m sitting in the kitchen of David Goerne’s Michelin-starred restaurant in Normandy, close enough to hear the hiss of butter in a pan and watch flames briefly leap from the stove. Around me, chefs move with practised precision, bending over the worktop to add a final flourish to exquisitely plated dishes. The aromas are intoxicating – warm brioche straight out of the oven, bubbling sauces reducing and garden-fresh herbs being chopped. “You’re having the first of this year’s cucumbers,” says David as he places the opening course – one of eight – before me at the 19th-century turreted Manoir de Rétival, perched above the Seine. The Hamburg-born chef, who fell in love with French cuisine and has been at the manor since 2009, not only creates the food, but also serves it. As he explains every component and the wines paired with each course, it feels less like a restaurant meal and more like a behind-the-scenes culinary performance and private audience with the affable chef and his team. Shorts It’s also an immersive gastronomic experience that normally costs about £240, but I leave without paying the bill. Not – perish the thought – that I’m doing a runner, but because it’s included in the fare for guests staying in one of the 10 Beyond Suites aboard Viva Beyond, the first vessel in Viva Cruises’ new premium brand, Viva Boutique. In a river cruise market where luxury usually comes with high prices, Viva Boutique is attempting something different. It offers an elevated experience with plenty of thoughtful extras. Week-long Seine itineraries themed around art, food and culture start from the equivalent of £282 a night and the value soon becomes apparent. All meals, drinks and entertainment are covered and the ship moors within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, without the added cost of a hotel stay. With an overnight and full day in Paris built into the itinerary, it feels like two holidays, a cruise and city break, rolled into one. The ship itself is another pleasant surprise. Viva Beyond isn’t new, but, following a comprehensive renovation, it feels fresh. Soft blush tones, elegant furnishings and contemporary styling create an atmosphere that’s sophisticated without being stuffy. Gourmet meals are one of the luxuries of sailing on Viva Beyond (Photo: Kristina Fendesack) Half the accommodation consists of suites – unusual for river vessels – including my Beyond Suite. These are the largest in the Viva fleet, and I particularly like the dressing room, surprise gifts, bottomless minibar, in-room breakfast and boiling water tap for my morning cuppa. An exclusive cocktail reception with the captain and hotel manager adds to the sense of occasion. There’s capacity for just 112 passengers, so familiar faces quickly emerge among both guests and crew. Service is warm and attentive, and posh amenities, such as Dyson hairdryers in every cabin, reinforce the boutique feel. Food is a major focus, and not just for suite guests. The standout venue is Moments, an intimate restaurant overlooking the stern, where everyone dines at least once each sailing at no additional cost. The seven-course menu has been created by Goerne, and features his signature dish, pâté en croûte, made using veal, pork and duck pâté with dried fruit and pistachios (vegetarian alternatives are available). Viva’s Brasserie is among the dining options (Photo: Viva Cruise) As well as the main Riverside restaurant, the third dining option is a casual brasserie serving French favourites such as onion soup, snails, croque monsieur and boeuf bourguignon. Onboard food events also celebrate local flavours, including an afternoon tea of pastel-hued French pastries, and an oyster, steak tartare and champagne evening one night before dinner. As we meander along the Seine as far as Le Havre, where the river flows into the Channel, the focus on authentic experiences extends ashore. An excursion that’s included for all guests takes us to Conflans, gateway to Auvers-sur-Oise, where the rustic thatched cottages, rolling wheat fields and historic Notre-Dame church were immortalised by Vincent van Gogh during the last months of his life. The Old Town of Rouen is ripe for indepedent exploration (Photo: Pawel Gaul/Getty) Other shore tours are optional, which avoids the need to pay upfront for trips you might never take. Most river lines include excursions in the fare, which can make you feel like you’re wasting money if you decide to skip a few. Here, the overall cost is kept down by separating excursions from the cruise price, so you’re only paying for the experiences you actually want. I opt to do my own thing in Rouen, wandering around the soaring gothic cathedral that was one of Monet’s favourite subjects, and Le Havre, with its stark urban landscape that rose from the ashes of the Second World War and is now recognised by Unesco. In Paris, Viva partners with a company offering sightseeing trips in classic Citroën 2CVs. Folding myself into the back seat, I sway from side to side in sync with the infamously soft suspension as the insightful driver and guide, Nico, navigates corners and expertly circles the Arc de Triomphe. It offers a charmingly different perspective on familiar landmarks, costing £143pp for a two-hour drive. Climbing out, with a degree of difficulty, I straighten up and reflect on a fun-filled, culture-rich and foodie week. Viva Boutique manages to serve up something different that feels both indulgent and good value. How to do it The writer was a guest of Viva Boutique, which offers the seven-night A Journey From Impressionism to Modernism round-trip Paris cruise from £1,975pp (from £3,995pp in a Viva Beyond suite), departing 9 June, 2027. Includes all meals, drinks, Wi-Fi and one excursion. Fly or take the Eurostar to Paris.