Published Nov 11, 2026, 11:00 AM EST Ayush Pande is a PC hardware and gaming writer. When he's not working on a new article, you can find him with his head stuck inside a PC or tinkering with a server operating system. Besides computing, his interests include spending hours in long RPGs, yelling at his friends in co-op games, and practicing guitar. I’ve pivoted to functional 3D prints after I got tired of creating aesthetically-pleasing desk accessories, and despite some initial hiccups, turning STL files into utilitarian models has become a new hobby of mine. In fact, I’ve used my 3D printers to build everything from D&D accessories, microcontroller cases, and device mounts to my home lab cable management setup. And then you've got all the replacement parts that made fixing different appliances and furniture a cakewalk. That's because, I can just print plastic/TPU components and glue, snap, or latch them onto broken products to restore them back to life instead of spending dozens (and, in some cases, hundreds) of bucks on first-party replacements. A few grams of filament can create replacement parts that I’d otherwise have to buy I don’t have to wait several days for my aftermarket accessories, either Story time: A couple of months ago, I accidentally broke off the MIPI latch on my Raspberry Pi 5. While it didn’t impact most of my projects, I couldn’t work on experiments involving camera modules or DSI displays, as the latch was responsible for locking the ribbon cables of my SBC accessories in place. I tried looking into replacement latches online, but all I could find were sketchy websites that charged $10 for the plastic latch – all while requiring almost twice this sum for the shipping fees. The only other option was to grab another Raspberry Pi, which is also not very feasible considering the astronomically high prices of these boards. That’s when I decided to scour the web for some 3D printed models that could solve my latch woes. Soon, I was able to find a model for the replacement latch– one that slid perfectly into my SBC. The best part? I spent under 1 gram of filament to print this latch, essentially making the replacement model cost $0.2–0.25 even with my 3D printer siphoning a few watts of energy for the 2–3 minute-long print. And it’s not just my little green companion, either. I once broke the nozzle off my aerosol can in the middle of a paintjob, but thanks to my trusty 3D printer, I was able to print a replacement for well under $0.3. Likewise, I’ve used my 3D printers to replace door knobs, bike grips, and (most importantly) gaskets for half the appliances in my kitchen and bathroom. Individually, these replacement parts may not drain a lot of money from my wallet. But over time, I’d end up spending at least a few hundred bucks on all these replacement models. But the real advantage is being able to repair obscure and discontinued products I also don’t need to scour sketchy websites for replacement items So far, I’ve only covered 3D printed parts that I could still buy online or from the market. But when I include all the old furniture and appliances in my home, things start to get a little more complicated. Since manufacturers don’t create replacement components for their outdated systems anymore, I can’t really find them anywhere. For example, I couldn’t find a suitable gasket for my front-loading washing machine no matter how hard I looked it up online. But after two hours of CAD designing, I was able to print one from a TPU roll, and it worked right off the bat. Likewise, I used a few grams of a PETG roll to glue a functional leg to my NAS’ chassis after I broke the original one. The same holds true for the camera mounts, vacuum cleaner hose attachments, tool handles, and drawer clips I’ve 3D printed over the years. PETG is my go-to filament for fixing broken objects But ABS and TPU have their own utility in my repair operations Although I prefer PLA for typical desk accessories and vanity prints, PETG is the one I use the most frequently for replacement models. Rather than snapping abruptly under mechanical stress, PETG typically flexes when it’s subjected to heavy load. It’s also fairly resistant to water and oils, making it a solid option for prints that get exposed to simple household chemicals. Its heat tolerance is also pretty decent, so it can easily tolerate the average temps my SBCs and microcontrollers can hit during normal operation. But if I had to design case components that sit near my PC’s CPU or GPU, I’d typically opt for ABS, as it can handle even higher temperatures than PETG. Meanwhile, TPU has served me well every time I wanted to print anti-vibration feet, dampening washers, gaskets, and pretty much any model that can make good use of its rubbery nature or impact absorption tendencies. 3D printers are a godsend for fixing things around the house Although I bought my first 3D printer just to create cosplay items and cool-looking models, I ended up using it more on replacement parts and functional prints over the years. And if you’re worried about the initial setup cost, my 3D printer paid for itself within the very first year by helping me fix annoying issues around the house. Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo $399 $449 Save $50
I stopped buying replacement plastic parts once I realized my 3D printer could make them for pennies
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