I Own 400 Sneakers. You Should Only Own 21

I own far too many sneakers. There are everyday beaters, rare samples, and plenty in between, accumulated over more than a decade of collecting. That’s a lot of shoes by any reasonable measure. Around 400 at my last count. A few of my favorites took some work to get. I entered a stupid number of raffles for the JJJJound x New Balance 990v3, lined up overnight for the Sacai x Nike VaporWaffle, and caved and paid resale for the Gucci x Adidas Gazelle.With that many pairs, you start thinking about what actually earns its space. A shoe can be interesting to collect and difficult to wear. Another can seem almost too obvious to buy, then turn out to be the thing that works with most of your clothes. If I could wipe the slate clean, I’d pay much more attention to that second category. I’d still want some fun stuff, obviously. I’m rebuilding a sneaker collection, not writing a packing list.So, where would I start? With these 21 pairs from Foot Locker’s selection. There are basketball shoes I’d want for their shape and history, runners I’d buy for everyday wear, and a few low-profile pairs to switch things up. Some are famous enough that they barely need an introduction. But knowing a shoe’s name and knowing why you’d want it in your collection are different things. Here’s why these would make it back into mine.Basketball classicsYes, four of my first five picks are Nike or Jordan – and that’s deliberate. If I were rebuilding my collection, they’d still get a big chunk of my budget. The Air Jordan 1, Air Force 1, and Dunk are a pretty good explanation for why. If you’re starting with jeans and a tee, I’d look here first. A high-top gives you a little more shoe around the ankle. A low-top is easier with shorts, and white Forces can do a lot of the work when you’re getting dressed in a hurry.1. Air Jordan 1 High OGFirst released: 1985Design: Leather basketball high-topIYKYK: Peter Moore design with a Wings logo at the ankleI’d start right here, before getting distracted by anything limited to 200 pairs. Peter Moore’s 1985 design gets the shape so right: the height of the collar, the panels around the toe, the way contrasting colors divide up the upper. The High OG also gives you the Nike Air tongue branding. I want a pair that looks good with straightforward jeans and a tee, and the Air Jordan 1 has been perfecting that combo for decades.2. Nike Air Force 1 ’07First released: 1982Design: Leather basketball low-topIYKYK: Bruce Kilgore design with perforations across the toeA fresh white Air Force 1 would be an early purchase for the deeply boring reason that I’d wear it constantly. Bruce Kilgore’s 1982 basketball silhouette has enough weight to sit properly under loose jeans, and that beefy sole gives the whole fit a little more presence. White-on-white also makes the leather panels and perforations easier to appreciate. It’s the pair I’d reach for when I like everything else I’m wearing and don’t need to complicate things.3. Nike Dunk LowFirst released: 1985Design: Leather basketball low-topIYKYK: The original color blocking was designed around college team colorsOnce you’ve looked at enough Dunks, you notice how much the colorblocking changes the sneaker. Its college basketball background gave those panels a specific purpose: carrying team colors. The ‘Sanded Purple’ makes good use of that layout. I’d want a Dunk Low because the shape is uncomplicated enough to wear regularly, while the colors give an outfit a clear starting point. Pick up one of those shades elsewhere, or leave the rest nice and neutral.4. Adidas Superstar IIAdidas OriginalsSuperstar IIFirst released: 1970Design: Leather basketball low-topIYKYK: The II adds padding around the tongue and heelThe Superstar arrived as a basketball shoe in 1970; Run-D.M.C.’s “My Adidas” helped give it a very different audience in 1986. That history is good to know, but the Shelltoe is what would get my money. It gives the front of the shoe a distinctive shape, and the Superstar II’s extra padding makes the whole thing feel chunkier than the OG. I’d put these under straight jeans, with enough of the toe showing to appreciate it.5. Nike Air Jordan 1 Low OGJordanAJ 1 Retro Low OG 2First released: Air Jordan 1 line debuted in 1985Design: Leather basketball low-topIYKYK: This black-and-red pair has X graphics at the heelThe High would come first, of course, but I’d still make room for an Air Jordan 1 Low OG. Removing the tall collar changes how the panels sit with your pants, giving you more space around the ankle and a less bulky-looking sneaker. I’d buy it for days when I want that familiar Jordan colorblocking with shorts or slightly shorter pants. There’s enough difference to justify the second box.Sneakers for long daysFor a day with a lot of walking, I’d start with the 990v6 or the Zoom Vomero 5. There are plenty of ways to get that mesh running-shoe look, and the XT-6 is the one I’d pick if I wanted a trail sole with more grip.6. New Balance 990v6First released: 2022Design: Cushioned running shoeIYKYK: Action Bronson starred in the original campaign and later dropped three of his own colorwaysYes, there would absolutely be gray New Balances in the rebuild. The 990 family started in 1982, but the sixth-gen adds FuelCell cushioning and lets the suede overlays flow across the mesh without the usual midfoot saddle. You can see the difference, and there’s a practical benefit underfoot, too. This is the pair I’d buy for days with a lot of walking: comfy enough to justify the purchase, good-looking enough that comfort isn’t the only justification.7. Asics Gel-Kayano 14First released: 2008Design: Retro mesh running shoeIYKYK: Won Runner’s World’s International Editor’s Choice award in 2008The OG 2008 Gel-Kayano 14 was the first in the series designed by someone other than Toshikazu Kayano – useful information for your next deeply specific sneaker convo. More relevant here is how well the layered mesh and synthetic overlays work together. The ‘Graphite Grey’ has enough contrast to show off the construction, with Gel cushioning right underneath.8. New Balance 1906RFirst released: 2022Design: Retro mesh running shoeIYKYK: Shares sole technology with the 2002R and 860v2The 1906R is for when I want all the little technical details. Open mesh, curvy overlays, and segmented cushioning around the heel give you plenty to check out, especially in white, silver, and black. It shares the same sole tech with the 2002R and 860v2, but the upper just looks more put-together.9. Nike Zoom Vomero 5First released: 2011Design: Cushioned mesh running shoeIYKYK: London streetwear label A-Cold-Wall brought it back in 2018 with a giant block attached to the heelThe Zoom Vomero 5 launched back in 2011, but it didn’t gain its cult following until about a decade later. There’s a lot to enjoy up top: open mesh, overlapping panels, and plastic caging that becomes particularly obvious in ‘Metallic Silver’. Zoom Air cushioning gives it a practical role in the collection, too. I’d buy this as a regular-wear pair for long days, with enough detail to make jeans and a plain sweater look put together.10. Saucony ProGrid Omni 9First released: 2010Design: Retro mesh running shoeIYKYK: Saucony brought it back in its OG colorways in 2023 more than a decade after its first releaseFirst released in 2010, the Omni 9 has all the mesh and supporting structure you’d expect from a running shoe of that era. This white and pink version lets you see how the layers fit together, with ProGrid cushioning underneath. I’d want it because a collection can become very repetitive once you find a couple of brands you like. The Omni gives me another interpretation of the technical runner, with enough character to earn its place alongside the Nikes and Asics.11. Nike P-6000First released: 2019Design: Mesh sneaker inspired by archive Nike designsIYKYK: Toronto sneaker store Makeway renamed it the Party-6000 for its 2024 Nike collabThe P-6000 looks like a straight archive reissue, but it actually combines elements from the Pegasus 25 and Pegasus 2006. I’d buy the white and silver combo and wear the hell out of them – every pair doesn’t need to be an occasion.12. Salomon XT-6First released: 2013Design: Trail running shoeIYKYK: Quicklace pulls tight with a toggleThe XT-6 started life in 2013 as a serious trail running shoe, and you can still see that purpose in the reinforced upper, Quicklace system, and lugged outsole. My plans would probably involve considerably less altitude. I’d buy it because the close-fitting upper and outdoor construction bring something different to the collection, particularly with cargo pants or wider-leg pants. The ‘Black Coffee’ also makes it easy to wear with denim, olive, and navy. No hiking itinerary required.Slim sneakersIf your jeans taper or you like a shorter hem, try something that sits closer to the foot. The Samba is an easy place to start in black leather. I’d go for the green Spezial if I wanted a little color without having to think too hard about the rest of the fit.13. Adidas SambaFirst released: 1950Design: Slim soccer shoeIYKYK: Early version had three suction cups cut into the outsole to help players grip frozen fieldsCollecting can make you weird about buying something that everybody else owns – I’d try to avoid that with the Samba. Its roots go back to soccer shoes for icy fields in 1950, but the slim shape is what earns it a place here. After a few chunky basketball shoes, you need something that sits closer to the foot. ‘Core Black’ leather, white stripes, and a suede T-toe give you plenty to work with, particularly under a straighter pair of pants.14. Adidas Handball SpezialAdidas OriginalsHandball SpezialFirst released: 1979Design: Indoor handball shoeIYKYK: British soccer fans adopted it in the ’80s turning it into a staple on the terracesYes, there’s already a Samba here. The Handball Spezial earns its own place with its rounded toe, suede upper, and gum sole, which give it a softer appearance than the leather-heavy pairs. First made for handball players in 1979, it’s also a good way to bring some color into the rebuild. The green and white do enough on their own. I’d wear these with blue jeans and let the suede take care of the rest.15. Adidas GazelleFirst released: 1966Design: Slim suede training shoeIYKYK: It was Adidas’ first-ever suede sneakerThe Gazelle dates back to 1966, making this year its 60th birthday. I’d buy it for the suede upper and the straightforward proportions, which give it a slightly different feel from the other Adidas silhouettes here. In black and white, it’s easy to wear with faded denim or dark pants. Some days, a familiar shape in simple colors is exactly what you want.16. Puma SuedeFirst released: Suede lineage goes back to 1968Design: Suede low-top with basketball rootsIYKYK: New York b-boy crews took to it in the ’80sPuma’s Suede history runs back to 1968, so I’d want some of that history in the collection, as well as the shoe’s simple construction. The soft upper and sweeping Formstrip give you texture and shape without a bunch of extra panels. It would be a useful change after several technical runners, especially with denim or cotton pants that already have plenty of texture themselves.Chunky sneakersWide jeans and heavier layers can take a bigger shoe. I’d look at the Air Max 95 for the layered upper, the Gel-NYC if I wanted something a little quieter, or the 9060 if I wanted the sole to do most of the talking.17. Nike Air Max 95First released: 1995Design: Chunky running shoeIYKYK: The lace loops take inspiration from the ribsSergio Lozano was inspired by human anatomy for the Air Max 95, translating ribs, muscle fibers, and a spine into a running shoe. A pretty weird design concept that produced a very good sneaker. Those layered side panels are the reason I’d buy it again: they give the shoe depth even in this low-key black, white, and gray combination. It has enough bulk for wider pants, and enough going on that the rest of the fit can stay simple.18. Asics Gel-NYCFirst released: 2023Design: Retro runner inspired by archive Asics designsIYKYK: Awake NY founder Angelo Baque helped develop the silhouette, which debuted through his label’s Asics collabThe Gel-NYC looks pretty old school, but Asics actually assembled it from several archive references. There’s Gel-Nimbus 3 and Gel-MC Plus V in the upper, with Gel-Cumulus 16 tooling underneath. The result has a fuller shape than the Kayano, with more emphasis on those broad suede panels. That’s why I’d make room for both. This ‘Cream’ and ‘Oyster Grey’ version works particularly well beneath wider pants, where a very slim shoe can disappear under the hem.19. New Balance 90First released: 2022Design: Chunky sneaker with design cues from the 99X seriesIYKYK: The tongue logo nods to the 991’s lace jewelA collection of completely sensible sneakers would feel like an opportunity missed. The 9060 takes details from New Balance’s 99X family and blows them up: the 990’s sway bars spread across the upper, while the sole gets a sculpted, pod-like shape. I’d pick this brown version to balance out bigger pants and heavier layers. It gives those clothes a chunky enough shoe to sit over.Canvas beatersThese are the two I’d happily get dirty. Go for the Chucks if you like a high-top with cuffed jeans, or the Old Skools if you want something low that’s just as easy to wear with shorts.20. Converse Chuck Taylor All Star HighConverseAll Star High TopFirst released: 1917Design: Canvas basketball high-topIYKYK: The round ankle patch sits on the inside of the shoeBlack canvas Chucks would be back on the shelf pretty quickly, too. Their basketball DNA stretches all the way back to 1917, but it’s the narrow shape I’d want in this collection. It gives jeans a completely different finish from an AF1 or a 990, especially with a little ankle showing. These are also shoes I’d be happy to wear until the canvas softened and the rubber picked up some marks.21. Vans Old SkoolFirst released: 1977Design: Canvas-and-suede skate low-topIYKYK: The first Vans model with the SidestripeTo finish off my new collection, I’d grab a pair of Old Skools. Launched in 1977 as the Style 36, it introduced the Jazz Stripe along the way. The canvas-and-suede upper, white stripe, and waffle sole are still enough to make it worth owning. It looks good with jeans, works with shorts, and improves once the upper loosens up. After all the comparing and researching and rebuilding, I’d want at least one pair I could put on and forget about.