I just got back from South Korea – these are the best K-beauty products I tried

I just got back from South Korea – these are the best K-beauty products I tried

I’ve been educated by K-beauty experts on the ingredients I should use for optimal skin healthHayley SpencerFrom Squid Game to BTS ballads, the Korean Wave (Hallyu) has a chokehold on pop culture – and in beauty, innovative formulas and clever packaging have seen South Korea officially overtake the United States to become the world's second-largest beauty and cosmetics exporter, only beaten by France.Snail mucin and sheet masks might have been a gateway to K-beauty for many, but more and more cosmetics fans are discovering how genuinely effective the formulas are across all categories.For my part, brands such as Erborian and Cosrx have been in my routine for nearly a decade, but visiting Seoul for several weeks in April to explore the beauty scene opened up a world of brands and formulas to explore. What was most illuminating about my trip was having a skin analysis (treatments are highly personalised in South Korea), which educated me on my skin type and which ingredients I should (and shouldn’t) use back home for optimal skin health.Armed with this information, I’ve since been using a stripped-back routine and avoiding anything that could irritate my sensitive skin. As Korean skincare doctor and pharmacist Dr Christine Hall explains, the ethos of K-beauty is straightforward: “be consistent, protect your skin barrier and don’t assume that stronger ingredients automatically means better.” In short: let the right products do the hard work.Since I visited Seoul, many of the best products I discovered have now landed in the UK, at Boots, on Amazon or in specialist shops such as Pure Soul or Skin Cupid – so there’s never been a better time to get on board with K-beauty if you haven’t already Here’s what you should know before you shop.Best K-Beauty products at a glanceBest for ‘glass skin’ effect – Centellian 24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse 50ml: £12.99, Amazon.co.ukBest soothing lip serum – Dr Reju-all Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Lip Serum 10ml: £13.90, Lookfantastic.comBest for barrier support – Haruharu Wonder Barrier Essence 120ml: £16.80, Boots.comBest skin-like base – Erborian CC Creme SPF 30 40ml: £38, Lookfantastic.comBest for gentle exfoliation – Mamonde Flora Glow Rose Liquid Mask 80ml: £17.10, Boots.comWhat defines K-beauty products?Unlike Western skincare, which prioritises ‘correction’ of concerns and imperfections, Dr Christine explains that “K-beauty is really about preventative ageing and nurturing the skin,” with formulas designed around “maintaining a healthy skin barrier, hydration and sun protection.” While social media has made the “glass skin” aesthetic (a luminous, even-toned, almost reflective visage) famous in the UK, Dr Christine says Koreans focus more on “chok chok skin” (meaning moist moist), which is about a bouncy, deeply hydrated appearance.Traditionally, actives such as Vitamin C, retinol and niacinamide haven’t been present in K formulas for their potential to cause irritation or redness, though Dr Christine notes that “as the distance between East and West gets closer, Korea has become very good at formulating some of those same ingredients in much gentler, more tolerable products.”One of the reasons that K-beauty has gained so much popularity overseas is the formulation. “Korean skincare has a huge focus on texture. You get these beautiful lightweight products, and often at a very accessible price point,” says Dr Christine.K-beauty brands are also known for innovating faster than any other market – in part, it’s because maintenance and self-care are so ingrained in the culture that there is a huge market for products. “Korea is incredibly fast at taking an ingredient or technology and finding a really interesting way of formulating it,” adds Dr Christine.How to build a K-beauty routineMy exploration of Seoul’s beauty scene opened up a world of brands and formulas to explore Hayley Spencer/The StandardOne misconception about K-beauty plans is that a 10-step regimen is the norm. “While Koreans do use more product steps than most, around seven is standard,” says Dr Christine. So don’t overcomplicate things or waste your time and money on products which may overwhelm the skin when used in combination. Nurse Teresa O'Nwere-Tan, owner of T&Co clinic, which specialises in K and J-beauty, advises: “For sensitive skin, I would keep the routine relatively simple. A foaming, slightly acidic cleanser that doesn’t strip the skin. Prioritise barrier support with your moisturiser and finish with a comfortable daily SPF.”“With acne-prone skin, I still advise starting with that same foundation, then introduce targeted actives according to what the skin actually needs,” she explains. Not overwhelming the skin barrier is key. “I wouldn't automatically recommend daily exfoliation; for many acne-prone or sensitive patients, once weekly may be plenty to begin with,” she warns.Right now, for skin barrier health, formulas containing Cica or PDRN are both trending in the UK, and there are lots of fantastic efficacy-focused products containing both that are worth exploring if you want to get to grips with K-beauty. Brands such as Round Lab, Dr Reju-all and Anua were really popular with locals when I visited due to their lovely formulations; so if you haven’t already, they’re great names to consider. How I testedAnua has just landed in the UK, while Biodance’s collagen mask is already a bestseller for good reason Hayley Spencer/The StandardWhile some of the products I’ve recommended have been in my arsenal for years, I have ramped up my use of Korean formulas after picking up new products in Seoul, and now that they’re more readily available in the UK. Other formulas are viral or contain ingredients highly recommended for my skin type, so I have tried and tested them over a few weeks or up to a month to analyse the formulation as well as any cumulative effects. As there is a mix of categories in this edit, I considered price point, efficacy and how enjoyable I found them to use, based on formula, texture and packaging. Here are my 12 favourite products for hydration, improving skin tone and barrier health. Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30mlHayley Spencer/Cult Beauty★★★★☆Best: For improving skin tone and dialling down rednessWhat we love: Hydrating; optimal 10 per cent concentration; lightweightTake note: Slightly sticky texture when applied versus creamier competing formulas; may cause purging due to activesAnua serums were among the most popular with locals when I visited Seoul – and the buzz has now officially reached the UK too, as they’re relatively affordable and highly tolerated.I’d been searching for a 10 per cent azelaic acid (the maximum amount that can be sold over the counter) that I could feel confident wouldn’t irritate my sensitive skin for a long time. It’s known for calming, improving tone and dealing with dark spots while being anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial. Anua’s is formulated with hyaluronic acid to moisturise at the same time as the active does its work. I wanted something to accelerate the healing of my hormonal blemish marks, and I’ve seen visible results within a few weeks of use (two to three times a week in the evening before moisturiser).Beauty of Joseon Comfort Protection Body Sunscreen SPF30 150mlHayley Spencer/LookFantastic★★★★☆Best: Body SPF for sensitive skinWhat we love: Skincare benefits; UVA and UVB protection of PA++++ and SPF30; suitable for sensitive skin; easily absorbed chemical sunscreenTake note: Pricier than other products on the marketBeauty of Joseon isn’t a brand you’ll see a whole lot of in Korea, but it’s hugely popular on our shores for its silky, non-irritating SPFs. The Comfort Protection Body Sunscreen is a standout for its easily absorbed mineral formula, which has skincare benefits as well as high protection. Zinc oxide provides UV defence, and it’s made with fermented brown rice (a popular Korean ingredient for skin barrier health) and panthenol to hydrate dry or irritated skin without feeling heavy.My bugbear with many body sunscreens is that they pile up with repeat application – Comfort Protection doesn’t, and it feels instantly calming on sun-exposed skin. It’s an SPF I’d happily wear every day.Biodance Bio Collagen Real Deep Mask X 4Hayley Spencer/SpaceNk★★★★☆Best: Hydrating maskWhat we love: Snug fit; plumping effectTake note: Requires multiple hours of wear, or can be used as an overnight treatment; surface hydration only; occlusive formula means it may not be well tolerated by acne-prone skinSkin feeling dehydrated after a night out? Ravaged by British winter? Or need a smoother canvas for event makeup? These hydrogel masks are the ultimate in plumping and hydration, and feel like a real treat for the skin. The gel-like texture feels less sticky than your average sheet mask, and they fit more comfortably on the face without slipping, as they come in two parts (one for the top half of the face, one for the bottom). They are designed to be worn for several hours or even overnight if desired, containing ultra-low molecular collagen to help the formula to absorb fully. They turn see-through once your skin has drunk up all of the essence, so you know when you’re done. Don’t forget to use the eye and mouth holes to fill in gaps beside the nose, or for more moisture at the lower lash line.Centellian 24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse 50mlHayley Spencer/Amazon★★★★★Best: For a glass skin effectWhat we love: Well-tolerated amount of retinol; rich but silky, easily absorbed texture; affordableTake note: The medicinal scent may not be to everyone’s tasteThis formula has been on the market in Korea since the 1960s, and is a daisy essential for many locals. It’s gained virality here in the UK in the past couple of years for its instant glass skin effect, as it contains 30,000 ppm of active TECA (a high-potency derivative of Centella Asiatica, a herbaceous plant used in traditional medicine), as well as Cica protein extract, which are known for their healing and anti-inflammatory properties. The cream also contains active ingredients retinol and niacinamide to improve texture, target fine lines and hydrate the skin. While the cream has a rich texture, it’s easily absorbed and leaves skin feeling bouncy, with a palpable glass-like shine. As for the Time Reverse claims, after a month of consistent daily use, my skin looked more even, and the fine lines on my forehead and my 11s looked less pronounced. Due to my skin’s sensitivity, I usually steer clear of retinoids, so I can’t recommend this formula enough for how well tolerated it is, while having a clear cumulative effect on skin texture. It’s an all-round skin hero for targeting everything from barrier strength to dryness and brightness. The only turn-off for some may be the slightly medicinal scent, but I stopped noticing this after a few uses.Botari Hand Cream and Charm SetHayley Spencer/Botari★★★★☆Best: Winter hand creamsWhat we love: Lightweight formulas; solution-oriented; beautiful designTake note: Each cream carries a different scent; on the more expensive sideThis K-beauty-inspired line is by Korean-born, London-based designer Molly Park, who wants us to apply the same rigour to hand care as we do to our faces. It is one of my favourite recent beauty launches. I find that many hand creams are too occlusive and tend to sit on the surface of my skin, or feel too heavy for use on the go – not Botari. The trio of super-lightweight gel cream formulas absorb instantly, have uplifting scents and are solution-oriented, so with the discovery set you can pick and mix depending on how the weather or personal concerns are impacting your hands’ health. The citrusy Cica Protect is currently stashed in my handbag, as the centella and panthenol formula has been perfect for restoring lost moisture and strengthening the skin barrier in cold weather. Also included is Noni Renew, which contains retinol to improve skin texture, while Charcoal Reset helps hands that are over-processed by city life and harsh hand soaps. The set also comes with a decorative leather flower charm, with a lid to attach your cream of choice to a brass carabiner. You’ll notice that a lot of K-beauty products have utilitarian packaging, so the combination of beautiful artwork and function in these products is really refreshing.Dr Reju-all Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Lip Serum 10mlHayley Spencer/Look Fantastic★★★★★Best: Soothing and smoothing lip serumWhat we love: Clever cushioned applicator; non-sticky; great to prepping lips for lipstickTake note: Pricier than your average lip balmBefore my trip, I watched numerous beauty haul videos from K-beauty insiders, and one name kept coming up: Dr Reju-all, a popular pharmacy brand for potent, skin barrier-supporting products. After trying several products from the range, the PDRN lip balm has become one of my beauty ride or dies.It’s designed to tackle any sign of irritation or dryness with 0.01 per cent PDRN, alongside rice bran oil and macadamia seed oil. It has treatment properties but can be used frequently, or I use a thicker layer as a shot of moisture before bed to wake up with a plumper, softer and super hydrated pout. The tube has an on-off switch so you don’t get any gloopy leakage, and a doughnut-shaped rubber ring around the applicator cushions the lips and distributes the product evenly. It leaves a subtle sheen with no stickiness. And luckily for me, you can now buy it from plenty of UK retailers. Haruharu Wonder Barrier Essence 120mlHayley Spencer/Boots★★★★☆Best: Essence for barrier support What we love: Silky texture and sits well under makeupTake note: Not suitable for acne-prone skinHaruharu is known for its efficacy-driven, clean formulas, and while I was trepidant about adding another step to my routine, I’ve seen a palpable difference as we move into the colder months from using this essence. If you have drier skin, sandwiching it between your serum and moisturiser could really benefit your skin’s barrier strength, as well as adding hydration and locking in moisture. Formulated with a 5-ceramide complex to support the barrier and panthenol to hydrate, it’s a shortcut to the chok chok effect that Dr Christine speaks to.It also contains fermented black rice and probiotics to target skin elasticity over time, and has a patented micro-particle technology to ensure the effective delivery of actives. My skin drank it up, and the texture is milky but feels lovely and comforting.Mamonde Flora Glow Rose Liquid Mask 80mlHayley Spencer/Boots★★★★☆Best: For gentle exfoliationWhat we love: Super light and easily absorbed; imbues an instant glow; fun packagingTake note: Watery texture, so it can be prone to spillingFinding an exfoliant that’s effective but doesn’t irritate my skin is an ongoing struggle, but of course, K-beauty has the answers. Mamonde’s formula is made with 10 per cent PHAs to act as a mild chemical exfoliant, though it also has the benefits of a hydrating toner, with rose peptides and hyaluronic acid. It leaves skin with a luminous sheen and is a great step to prep the skin for makeup. Flora Glow absorbs very easily when patted onto the skin, though not everyone will like the super-fine, watery texture. It can also be swiped on a toner or used as a “mask” by allowing a thicker layer to sit on the skin before you add moisturiser on top.ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream 200mlHayley Spencer/Boots★★★★☆Best: Barrier repair moisturiserWhat we love: Deeply hydrating and skin softening Take note: Heavy textureYou’re just as likely to find this intensely moisturising cream in a granny’s bathroom as in a teen's, as it’s been a popular pharmacy item in Korea for decades. If your skin feels parched or rough, it’s a super-effective barrier-repairing moisturiser with a patented way of delivering ceramides for deep hydration, and it is suitable for even the most sensitive skin. The texture is thick and creamy, but it absorbs easily, and with repeat use it leaves skin super soft and bouncy. I like to apply it a couple of times a week to my body after showering in the colder months, though if I have dry skin on my face from a cold or harsh weather, I dab it on as a top-up whenever necessary.Erborian CC Creme SPF 30 40mlHayley Spencer/Look Fantastic★★★★★Best: Skin-like base What we love: Blurring, lightweight, buildable coverage, with SPF, and super moisturisingTake note: Not a full-coverage product, and it’s pricey per mlI’m a long-term fan of this silky, hydrating CC (colour correction) cream with SPF 30 – it has a place on my desert island beauty picks list. The range was updated recently to include more skin tones – there are now six. At the same time, more skincare ingredients were added to the formula, including 2 per cent Centella Asiatica and hyaluronic acid.Don’t be alarmed that it comes out white; blending releases the encapsulated pigments, which melt into your complexion while camouflaging any pigmentation or imperfections. I use the Clair shade, and I find it lasts all day, making skin look even and glowy without creasing or exaggerating fine lines. In my opinion, no other product rivals it for buildable coverage with a “your skin but better” aesthetic. It can also be used as a primer if you need heavier coverage.Mediheal Collagen Ampoule Pad 100 PadsHayley Spencer/Cult Beauty★★★★☆Best: Toner for dry or mature skinWhat we love: Soft, flexible texture; multi-use; plant-based fabricTake note: Less economical than using a regular tonerThese toning pads are a fun introduction to K-beauty formulas as they’re multi-use and add a juicy, hydrated look to skin. Each ampoule contains 300Da of low-molecular collagen, milk protein, and ceramides to lock in moisture. They can be used as ready-made toner pads to soften the skin, or as a targeted sheet mask on dehydrated areas of the face or to target fine lines around the eyes or mouth.Round Lab Pine Cica Cleanser 150mlHayley Spencer/Boots★★★★☆Best: Gentle cleanserWhat we love: Its creamy but gently foaming formula is ideal for daily use on sensitive but blemish-prone skinTake note: May not be as effective on dry skinRound Lab is a quintessentially Korean brand that locals love. I picked up this gentle cleanser on my trip and was super impressed by its creamy but gently foaming formula – a little goes a long way. It is low-pH, contains cica to calm redness and BHAs (salicylic acid) to clear pores, so it’s ideal for daily use on sensitive but blemish-prone skin. Use it as part of a double cleanse routine after an oil formula. If you have dry skin, then the Dokdo formula from Round Lab might be more up your street for its hydrating, gently exfoliating formula.What K-beauty products should you try? If you want your skin condition to improve over time and to soften fine lines, then Centellian 24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse is a historic formula that has stood the test of time and is super affordable. If you want makeup and skincare benefits in one, then Erborian’s CC Creme with SPF is suitable for most skin types and is a super lightweight formula for cheating your way to a luminous, even-looking complexion.Why you can trust our reviews Hayley Spencer is a lifestyle editor with over 16 years of experience writing for major magazines, dailies and nationals. She has written on beauty, wellness and style for titles spanning The Guardian, Elle, The Independent and Grazia, and is a former lifestyle editor at the London Standard. Hayley has been using K-beauty formulas for a decade and has interviewed experts on the topic, as well as spending time in Seoul to experience the scene at the source.

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