I got a first look at Ooni’s Halo Core spiral mixer: Three things I love and one thing I don’t

(Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman) When Ooni announced the new Halo Core spiral mixer, one thought immediately crossed my mind: KitchenAid is in for some serious competition.Available for $599 at Amazon, it hits the exact price as the iconic KitchenAid Artisan Plus, but offers a more compact and home-kitchen-friendly footprint than the high-end Ooni Halo Pro spiral mixer — currently our top pick for bread making in our best standing mixer buying guide.While $599 is still a real investment, the Halo Core feels far more accessible than the Ooni Halo Pro, which is $799 at Amazon, plus it won't take up as much countertop space in your kitchen.I’ve been putting the Halo Core through its paces, and there’s a lot to like. I’ll follow up with a full review in a couple of weeks, but for now, here are three things I loved and one thing you should know.Ooni Halo Core spiral mixer: What I like1. Perfect dough (Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman)The Halo Core spiral mixer, like its older sibling, is designed specifically for bread making. Instead of the planetary stand mixers home bakers are used to, Ooni’s design brings professional-grade spiral mixing into our kitchens.How does it work? The dough hook and bowl rotate around a breaker bar — a stationary vertical metal rod that sits in the mixing bowl. Although watching the rotating bowl is fun to watch, it’s not a gimmick.The breaker bar removes dough from the hook as it spins during mixing, preventing it from climbing up the dough hook and stopping you from pausing the mix to remove the dough. It also stretches the dough for a stronger gluten structure.Get instant access to breaking news, the hottest reviews, great deals and helpful tips.I’ve been experimenting with making bread and pizza dough, and although the pizza dough is currently proving in my kitchen, the bread tasted exceptional. In fact, my husband didn’t realize it was homemade.I also found that the kneading process was smooth. The usual mixers I test move around my countertop when the dough hook is in action, and it almost seems like too much for the appliance’s motor. There was a clear difference when using the Ooni Halo Core. The mixer stayed steady, and there was no hint of any electric smell or the motor burning out.2. Pause and go again (Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman)The controls of the Halo Core work differently from any stand mixer I’ve previously tested, but in a good way. The control knob is positioned on top of the appliance, so it’s easy to access whether you’re right- or left-handed. What’s more, it works in percentages, with 20 speeds. Turn it clockwise once for 5% at 60 rpm, and turn it up to 100% for 300 rpm.The control lights up in sections, so you can clearly see which speed setting you're on. This is quite clever in itself, but what impressed me more was that you can simply press the knob and the appliance will pause. Press it again, and it will start from where it left off. It may seem like a small thing, but I found it took away the hassle of turning down the speed when you want to pause the mix.3. Double whisk (Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman)I’ve never made butter before, but since my colleague made butter with the Halo Pro, I followed suit. I started by attaching the dual-geared whisk attachment — it even has a built-in gearbox for rapid whipping! (Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman)The whisk really came into its own, whipping the heavy cream into what looked like scrambled eggs until the fat and buttermilk separated. Apart from the speed, it’s fascinating to watch, and if you’ve never made butter before, I recommend giving it a go.The whisk attachment proved that the Halo Core isn’t just good at making dough; it has a firm place in the kitchen for other baking tasks.Ooni Halo Core spiral mixer: What I don't likeIt wasn't great at mixing cake batter (Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman)After the whisk's success, I was excited to try the angled silicone-edge beater to make an all-in-one cake batter. I love the silicone beater I’ve used with the KitchenAid Artisan Plus, as it swipes around the edge of the bowl, incorporating the whole mixture — so you don’t need to stop midway through to scrape the ingredients off the side. (Image credit: Future / Camilla Sharman)The Halo Core did the same, but it seemed to struggle to incorporate the butter into the mixture, even though it was soft when I added it to the bowl. Then, when I raised the mixer’s head, I noticed a large clump of butter was still attached to the beater.I’m going to keep testing its cake-making ability, since other reviews have given it more positive results. So keep an eye out for my full review.Over to youAre you thinking about buying an Ooni mixer, or have you already invested in one? I’d love to read your thoughts and experiences in the comments below. Follow Tom's Guide on Google News and add us as a preferred source to get our up-to-date news, analysis, and reviews in your feeds. More from Tom's GuideKitchenAid vs Cuisinart: Which stand mixer is best?Smeg’s newest retro stand mixer gives KitchenAid a run for its money — here’s why it won me overI tested Ooni's new Rotating Stone — and it's your ticket to perfect pizza at home Camilla is the Homes Staff Writer and covers everything to do with homes and gardens. She has a wealth of editorial experience, mounting over 30 years, and covers news and features, tests products for reviews and compiles buying guides. Her work has appeared in business and consumer titles, including Ideal Home, Real Homes, House Beautiful, Homebuilding & Renovation, and Kitchen & Bathroom Business. She’s even appeared on the cover of Your Home, writing about her own house renovation. Although she’s obsessed with decorating her home, she also enjoys baking and trying out the latest kitchen appliances. But when she’s not inside, you’ll find her pottering about in her yard, tending to her vegetable patch or taking in her prized hydrangeas.