I didn’t think solo travel was for me, then I went to Mongolia alone

Putting my phone away, I decided to take in the moment with my eyes, not my camera. No photo could do justice to the vast, untamed beauty of the Mongolian steppe. Herds of horses and goats roamed freely across the grassland, weaving between the scattered silhouettes of gers, the dome-shaped homes of local nomadic herders. The guttural grunts of yaks tickled my spirits. In the distance, mountains rose majestically from the plains. This deep sense of contentment was exactly what I had come in search of. I may have been travelling alone, but I felt far from lonely. Before the trip, I’d become accustomed to the standard response from curious and slightly concerned friends whenever I shared my travel plans. “You’re going to Mongolia… alone? That’s brave.” Mongolia remains just far enough off the beaten track to prompt a quizzical raised eyebrow. Add the fact that I was leaving my husband and two children behind and heading out solo, and that eyebrow shot skyward. Shorts Solo travel had never been on my radar. It felt indulgent, unrealistic and, if I was being honest, a little intimidating. What if I got lonely? What if I felt unsafe? But in recent years, I’d felt an increasing urge to step beyond my comfort zones and carve out an adventure of my own. It seems I wasn’t alone. According to travel website Solo Female Travellers, searches for the term “solo female travel” have increased fivefold since the pandemic, with interest doubling again since the summer of 2025. Clare Tobin, CEO at UK adventure company Wild Frontiers, confirms this trend. “We’re seeing a clear rise in women choosing to travel independently. For many, it’s about confidence and freedom – ticking off destinations that may not be on a partner’s or friend’s list.” Mongolia still feels off the beaten track (Photo: John Berland) When Mongolia was crowned Lonely Planet’s “Best in Travel” for 2024, its epic landscapes and a sense of the unknown beckoned to me. Even so, I didn’t want to tackle the wilderness entirely alone, a feeling only reinforced after watching contestants battle across the country’s unforgiving terrain in the latest series of the BBC’s Race Across the World. Instead, I opted for a small-group tour with Wild Frontiers, whose clients are 70 per cent solo travellers, of whom nearly three-quarters are women. It felt like the perfect balance: independence, but with the reassurance of a well-rounded itinerary, an experienced guide and a small number of like-minded companions. Bleary-eyed after the long flight, I arrived in Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar, to meet Jack, our guide, and the 11 fellow travellers who would be my companions for the next two weeks. We were an eclectic, international mix of men and women, solo adventurers and couples, ranging in age from 29 to 83. At 42, I was thrilled to be considered one of the “youngsters”. Preparing traditional milk tea for guests in Ulaanbaatar (Photo: Edwin Tan/Getty) Together, we’d venture across central Mongolia in sturdy 4WD vans that made us feel like members of the A Team, journeying from the undulating hills and furrowed rock formations of Terelj National Park to the sweeping grasslands of the Orkhon Valley. I soon settled into the rhythm of adventure and discovery, as any lingering doubts or fears of homesickness washed away. Our group bonded instantly as we breathed in the sheer magnificence of the Mongolian scenery. Across the fortnight, we stayed in comfortable ger camps, with restaurants and basic facilities, or were welcomed into the homes of nomadic families. When I was planning the trip, I assumed I’d crave plenty of personal space, so I’d opted for the £310 single supplement to guarantee a private room whenever possible. In hindsight, I wouldn’t bother. We spent so little time in our accommodation that it felt unnecessary and, somehow, contrary to the communal spirit of the experience. Orkhon Valley in Central Mongolia (Photo: Laurie Noble/Getty) I’d also worried about leaving my husband and two sons, aged 11 and 13, behind. However, easing my residual sense of guilt was easily overcome by checking in with home most days, reassuring everyone and sharing stories of my adventures using an Holafly eSIM that cost £47 for two weeks of unlimited data. My instinct to come had been right. There was something about the country’s immense open spaces and lack of any boundaries, fences and roads, combined with the transience of nomadic life, that affected us all. “This country has given me a sense of freedom,” said Elizabeth, a globetrotter. “In all the places I’ve been, I’ve never felt like this before.” Sukbaatar place in Ulaanbatar A few evenings later, sharing bottles of Chinggis beer and watching the sun sink behind the Elsen Tasarkhai dunes, another new friend, Kelsay, reflected on what travelling alone had given her. “It’s a form of self-care. You can disconnect from your usual life and focus on yourself. I’ve discovered my own courage and resilience. It feels truly liberating.” I couldn’t agree more. Solo travel can feel like an indulgence, but the sense of adventure, self-confidence and belief that life is for living will stay with me. I travelled to Mongolia expecting breathtaking landscapes; I returned feeling happier, braver and more myself than I had in years. How to do it The writer was a guest of Wild Frontiers, whose 10-day Mongolia: Nomads of the Steppe group tour starts at £3,080pp (optional £310 single supplement), excluding flights. Turkish Airlines operates spring and summer flights from Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh to Ulaanbaatar via Istanbul.