How to Wash Your Hair Like You Mean It

Many guys breeze through hair washing with utilitarian speed, but a half-hearted lather and rinse won't do your hair any favors. While shampooing is perhaps the lowest maintenance part of a grooming routine, it still pays to learn how to do it correctly—especially if it’s something you’ve been doing on autopilot for years.We asked top stylists for a master class on how to wash your hair like a pro. Ahead, discover 10 tips and tricks that lead to a balanced scalp and healthier hair.1. Find the right shampooLots of guys pick a shampoo based on how it smells or what the bottle looks like. (Or, if your grooming routine is a little less dialed in, perhaps you opt for the utility of a 3-in-1 product. For whoever needs to hear it: You deserve better.) But according to stylist Rogerio Cavalcante, founder of Brazil Edition and owner of The Second Floor Salon in New York City, you should choose your shampoo based on your scalp condition. “If your scalp gets oily quickly, go for something lightweight and balancing. If it feels tight or flaky, you need hydration,” he says. And if you use a lot of products or live in a city with high pollution, you’ll want a clarifying formula that removes buildup without stripping your strands—and maybe even a shower head filter.2. Skip the scalding waterA hot shower feels great after a long day, but it’s not great for your hair (or your skin). Jerrod Roberts, celebrity hair stylist and brand ambassador for BLVD & CO, warns that hot water opens the cuticle and strips hair oils. Dial it down to warm water instead.3. Soak sufficientlyAccording to Cavalcante, one big mistake that guys make is applying shampoo directly to dry or barely wet hair. Make sure your hair is fully saturated before you even reach for the shampoo bottle.4. Portion out the productYou don’t need a ton of shampoo to get the job done. Cavalcante says that a dime- or nickel-sized amount should be sufficient, while Roberts recommends a quarter-sized dollop for longer or thicker hair. For a more thorough cleanse, Cavalcante advises emulsifying your shampoo in your hands first (i.e., adding a touch of water) before applying.5. Focus on your scalpShampoo is meant for your scalp—not your strands. “This is probably the biggest mistake I see,” says Cavalcante. “The scalp is where oil, sweat, and buildup accumulate.” Don’t worry: When you rinse, the shampoo naturally cleans the lengths of your hair. On the flip side, scrubbing your ends directly tends to dry them out and risks making your hair look dull over time.6. Easy does itAccording to Roberts, scrubbing aggressively with your fingernails is another common mistake that needs correcting. “It may feel good, but you're causing micro-damage to the scalp and potentially irritating follicles over time,” he warns. Instead, massage the shampoo into your scalp using your finger pads with small, circular motions.7. Don’t rush the processPrefer quick showers? Maybe you’re trying to conserve water or just crunched for time, but it’s in your hair’s best interest to stretch your shampooing time a bit longer. “If you rush through it, you’re not actually cleaning anything,” says Cavalcante. He says you should shampoo for a bare minimum of 30 seconds, though Roberts says that 60 to 90 seconds is ideal to ensure that the product has time to do its job.You should also rinse longer than you think. “Leftover shampoo residue is one of the most common reasons guys deal with dull hair or an itchy scalp,” Roberts says.8. Double shampoo (as needed)A double shampoo makes sense if you use a lot of styling products, you’ve been sweating heavily, or you’ve gone a few days without a proper cleanse. (While you’re at it, brush up on how often you should really wash your hair.) “The first shampoo is doing the heavy lifting: breaking down product buildup, excess oil, and environmental grime,” Roberts says. “The second shampoo, if you need it, is what actually cleans the scalp properly once that initial layer is gone.”9. Don’t skimp on conditionerBoth stylists say that conditioner is non-negotiable for guys. “Shampoo cleans, but conditioner is what makes your hair manageable, soft, and healthy-looking,” says Cavalcante. “Without it, hair tends to look dry and harder to style.” Even at a half-inch length, your hair has a cuticle that benefits from this, Roberts adds.Most guys will be fine to apply conditioner evenly throughout their hair. “A dime to nickel size is plenty, though thicker or coarser hair can handle a bit more,” says Roberts. However, those with longer strands can bump it up a bit and should apply the product from the mid-length to ends (where the hair is older and drier) rather than the scalp (where it could weigh your hair down). Let the product sit for 60 to 90 seconds before giving it a thorough rinse. “Guys will often rush the rinse and leave residue on. That residue then flakes, or sits on the scalp, or makes hair feel heavy,” says Roberts.10. Cool offOnce you’re nearing the end of your shower, turn the temperature down. Per Cavalcante, finishing with a quick, cool rinse helps smooth the cuticle so the hair looks shinier and more controlled.