Ho Liao

14/20Critics' PickUpdated September 25, 2026,first published June 19, 2025A casual setting for a chef’s inventive yet heartfelt creations.Neon signs and festoon lights jam with Crazy Rich Asians Mandopop in this big and busy diner. It’s a peek into the playful mind of chef Junda Khoo. A snack of pai tee raises the curtain further. Traditionally a tall tartlet, it’s presented with two paths to deliciousness: pile warm stir-fried radish into the tart shell, or go rogue with a lettuce wrapEither way, funky sambal belachan, one of 10 in the kitchen’s arsenal, is mandatory. The menu lists plenty of textbook Malaysian dishes – Hainanese chicken, salted egg squid – but Khoo always flips the script. Char kway teow is a kaleidoscope of crisped-up fish cake, pleasantly chewy noodles, sweet lap cheong and smoky lard, each element shining.Dry-aged roast duck brushed with soy and the flavours of Hainanese chicken rice is regally presented with pancakes, five-spice and hoisin sauce: a modern Malay take on Peking duck.Good to know: Book after 8pm for $13 mains and $9 sides.Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.Sign upLast visited: July 2026More:MelbourneHo LiaoMalaysianAccepts bookingsGood for groupsLicensedBudget friendlyBreakfastTakeawayVegetarian-friendlyGluten-free optionsWheelchair accessFamily-friendlyBYOLong lunchGood for a first datePre- or post-theatreRestaurantReviewsGood Food GuideCritics’ PickFrom our partners