Hiking in Hong Kong: I found the city’s wild side with not another tourist in sight

Sadie Whitelocks explores a rarely seen side of this vibrant Asian metropolis (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) ‘Hong Kong is more nature than city,’ my friend Rainbow tells me over dinner in bustling Soho. After five days here, I can’t disagree. I arrived expecting skyscrapers, neon lights and a city that never takes its foot off the accelerator. Instead, I’ve discovered a metropolis threaded with hiking trails, from lung-busting climbs to gentle coastal paths where the biggest traffic jams are caused by hikers stopping to admire the view. There is, however, one recurring feature: stairs. Lots and lots of stairs. Over four days, I tackle three popular routes. Lion Rock delivers panoramic views, while Dragon’s Back which I hike with Wild Hong Kong winds along a coastal ridge overlooking turquoise water and sandy beaches. Then there’s The Morning Trail, an uphill route to Victoria Peak where locals tackle seemingly endless steps before breakfast, rewarded with sweeping views of the skyscrapers, harbour and surrounding islands. What I don’t realise over dinner is that my wildest hike is still to come. Hong Kong boasts over 300km of hiking trails, spanning subtropical ridges, peninsulas and green country parks, just minutes from the city centre (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) After swapping city hotels – the luxe Hari in the heart of things and the historic Island Shangri-La, where I make time for its spa – I head towards the coast for a stay at The Fullerton Ocean Park. Ask Metro Use AI to go deeper into the stories you care about – powered by Metro and trusted publications. From my corner room, I spot a mountain rising beyond the buildings. Naturally, I want to climb it. I tackle the smaller Mount Lam Long Shan behind the hotel on my first day. But the neighbouring summit keeps catching my eye, so the following morning I decide to investigate. Google Maps identifies it as Mount Johnston. What it doesn’t explain particularly well is how to get there. Most trailheads are easily reached via the MTR underground, local buses, or public ferries (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) After an hour walking through the urban sprawl, I find myself in an industrial backwater, where workers load trucks and builders hammer away. It’s hardly the Hong Kong I’d imagined. My map suggests reaching the coast involves climbing over a wall. Just as I’m questioning this plan, I encounter a local fisherman heading for a swim. His English is limited, but he gives me a thumbs-up and points towards graffiti-marked rocks, indicating the route. I clamber over the wall and follow them. Unlike Hong Kong’s established trails, there’s nobody around. The muted scenery and grey skies remind me of a remote stretch of the Scottish coast rather than one of the world’s most densely populated cities. I’m enthralled. Carry plenty of water, as many remote routes lack shops along the path. And don’t forget to wear sturdy shoes! (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) While other routes have paved paths and signposts, here I rely on spray-painted arrows, worn tracks through the lichen and guesswork. Ropes, makeshift ladders and metal rungs bolted into the rocks offer something to grab as the terrain becomes more challenging. The route feels as though it has been carved out by generations of fishermen. Discarded tackle and the odd dead fish litter the rocks, while small bamboo shelters appear along the coast. Nobody seems to be around today. It’s rugged, ramshackle and seemingly a million miles from Central’s glass towers. Eventually, I reach a narrow sandbar linking Ap Lei Chau, where Mount Johnston rises, with Ap Lei Pai, a rocky outcrop topped by a small lighthouse. Hike between October and April to avoid the worst humidity (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) Tempted to continue towards the lighthouse, I push on until dense vegetation blocks my way. Reluctantly, I turn back and set my sights on the mountain. The climb is steep, and warning signs make clear this is no casual Sunday stroll. There are no handy railings, no reassuring stream of fellow hikers and no guarantee the path will be obvious around the next bend. This is not a trail for the inexperienced or faint-hearted. And I’m only halfway through. The descent proves just as challenging. The gradient is brutally steep, forcing me to keep low, move slowly and watch every foothold as I pick my way down the rocks. I’m relieved when I finally reach level ground. The 14km round trip from my hotel has taken just under three hours. Back at The Fullerton, I sink into a bath and let my legs recover while reflecting on how much Hong Kong has surprised me. There’s more to Hong Kong than food markets and skyscrapers (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) Over five days, I’ve tackled five very different trails, from The Morning Trail’s well-trodden steps to Mount Johnston’s exposed coastal scrambles. I’ve sweated my way up hills, gazed across turquoise bays and discovered pockets of wilderness that seem improbable in a city better known for its skyline. Yet I feel I’ve barely scratched the surface. Rainbow was right. Hong Kong is more nature than city – or, at the very least, it offers far more of both than I expected. The skyscrapers might grab the headlines, but sometimes the best way to see Hong Kong is to leave them behind, lace up your trainers and start climbing. 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Rates start from around £280 per night. The Hari Hong Kong: Rooms feature contemporary interiors sigh the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on the doorstep. Facilities include a fitness centre and two restaurants. Rates start from £220 a night. The Fullerton Ocean Park Hotel Hong Kong: Rooms start from £130 per night, with oceanfront options offering panoramic views of the South China Sea. The resort features an infinity pool, spa and fitness centre, with Water World park next door. Arrow MORE: What you get for £180,000 per person in the round-the-world Four Seasons holiday Arrow MORE: I’ve been to 14 Greek islands, but there’s only one I keep going back to Arrow MORE: British Airways is launching 3 new flights to Europe for spring 2027 The Getaway Expert Your exclusive seven-day guide to travelling with confidence from Metro's resident travel expert, Alice Murphy.