Heritage Awali: relaxed Indian Ocean vibes in tropical Mauritius

The island nation of Mauritius sits off the coast of Africa, east of Madagascar, a dot in the Indian Ocean. Once a huge volcano, this coral reef-ringed idyll hasn’t experienced an eruption in 700,000 years. Today it’s a safe and serene picture-postcard location with a central plateau, a rim of jagged basalt peaks and shoreside plains edged with white-sand beaches.My stay was on the unspoilt and verdant south-west coast in the Domaine de Bel Ombre where gentle trade winds diffuse the heat. A former sprawling sugar cane estate has been transformed into eco-conscious luxury resorts with world-class golf courses and soothing spas. Bel Ombre even has its own original 19th-century chateau and 3,200-acre nature reserve.Departing from Gatwick on a direct flight with Air Mauritius, my journey got off to a good start with quality refreshments in the No1 Lounge. This trip, with a friend, was about total relaxation and we headed to our boarding gate feeling very unstressed.Mauritius, roughly the size of Sussex, is culturally diverse and is the only country in Africa where Hinduism is the dominant religion, with more ornate Hindu temples than mosques and churches. Roshan, the friendly Heritage Awali driver who collected us at the airport, is of Indian heritage. His grandparents arrived in Mauritius as contract labourers, when sugar was the backbone of the economy.Now, because of a long colonial history – ending with independence in 1968 – Mauritians are impressively multi-lingual, speaking English, French, Mauritian Creole and Hindi. Our twin room, a Deluxe Seaview Suite at the all-inclusive Heritage Awali Golf & Spa Resort, has air conditioning, a ceiling fan, flat-screen TV, bathtub and rainfall shower, amazing view of the ocean lagoon and a kettle to make vanilla black tea, a Mauritian favourite. The contemporary African-inspired style blends sleek wooden furniture with natural textures in neutral creams and biscuit tones.At Heritage Awali there are three swimming pools, including an ‘adults only’ pool (well away from toddlers and inflatable unicorns), plus access to a pristine beach.Heritage Le TelfairHeritage Le TelfairA 45-minute back massage was part of my package so I booked in right away. The airy Heritage Spa is newly renovated and I sipped a chilled tamarind juice before the appointment. The thatched complex of cottages are designed in traditional Mauritian style, the reed roofs creating natural insulation, cooling and ventilation. There’s a bridal room for wedding preparations and private couple kiosks for honeymooners who like to share everything. I chose to have my massage ‘strong’ – and alone – to ease any work tension away. It seems a fantastic idea to me to let golf-loving partners tee off on the fairway while you lay supine under a cascading Vichy shower or gently steam in the hammam. That’s perfect togetherness – separate satisfaction.Heritage Awali All-Inclusive guests can eat at the excellent Savana buffet or dine at a choice of on-site restaurants. Other nearby Bel Ombre venues, including sister resort Heritage Le Telfair, Le Chateau and Heritage Golf Club, have additional options, many items within the menu credit allowance or available with a small supplement.Heritage Awali restaurantHeritage Awali I loved freshly-prepared pancakes with maple syrup and coconut for breakfast at Savana, with tropical fruit and yoghurt. The shrimp skewer with green papaya, charred red bell pepper and pineapple salsa at Le Palmier seafood restaurant within Heritage Le Telfair was delicious for lunch.For dinner, ‘Catch of the Day’ dorado (also known as mahi-mahi) at Heritage Awali’s Infinity Blue was steamed with lemongrass, garlic and lemon butter sauce. The mango ginger spritz mocktail is a reviving way to stay hydrated and even more invigorating after sunset with a tot of Mauritian rum.Le Chateau de Bel Ombre, a short shuttle ride from Heritage Awali, is an original 1810 plantation house, built in Anglo-Indian colonial style. The carefully preserved historical landmark, filled with period furniture, has a spectacular formal French garden and is definitely worth visiting. If you choose to book a gourmet meal here, venison is often on the menu as Java deer were brought to Mauritius in 1639 by Dutch settlers. Herds now roam within the forested Bel Ombre Nature Reserve, a wilderness popular for hiking, 4x4 safaris and guided quad bike rides. Bel Ombre’s historic sugar mill buildings have been retained as the Place du Moulin cultural hub, housing the World of Seashells Museum with Africa's largest collection of rare and beautiful marine specimens. Luminous Mother of Pearl, sourced from local waters and harvested from saltwater pearl oysters, has been used in jewellery-making for centuries.Le Chateau de Bel Ombre garden Le Chateau de Bel Ombre garden The central highlands of Mauritius are perfect for coffee growing and once a major cash crop, coffee has been revived at the Chamarel Coffee Plantation, a half hour drive north of. Bel Ombre. Here, despite cheeky macaque monkeys feasting on the fleshy coffee cherries, the farm’s Arabica coffee trees thrive in the mineral-rich soil. They grow alongside cocoa, bananas and endemic species to support local biodiversity.I took a plantation walk, learnt about harvesting, fermentation and roasting and identified the subtle aromas of toffee, caramel and toast in a freshly-brewed coffee cup.Ten minutes away, Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth Geopark has the tallest single-drop waterfall in Mauritius, with a powerful rush that plunges 100 metres. The Geopark also has a weird and wonderful landscape of volcanic rock and clay, the rolling folds ranging from iron oxide red to violet and blue with aluminium particles. These solid ‘dunes’ were carved and compacted by time and weather from mineral layers, formed millions of years ago.For an unbeatable view of the coast from this elevated region, Le Chamarel Panoramic Restaurant has open balcony terrace tables.Le Chamarel Panoramic RestaurantLe Chamarel Panoramic RestaurantMauritius has ten power plants that can generate electricity from sugar cane waste (bagasse) and I visited the Heritage Marine Education Centre (HMEC), a dedicated conservation and learning hub, to understand more about preserving the Mauritian marine ecosystem and its biodiversity.The 2020 MV Wakashio oil spill did affect the mangrove wetlands along Mauritius's coast and rising sea temperature has caused bleaching of the corals. “We have a local coral restoration project that is overlooked by the Ministry of Blue Economy [a government department] in collaboration with the local fishermen of Bel Ombre,” Marine Research Coordinator Pourani told me.Restoration efforts are using thermally tolerant corals as a climate change adaptation strategy.In the Black River Gorges-Bel Ombre Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO designated zone, key eco-initiatives focus on endemic species recovery and reforestation. Endangered Black Ebony trees are regenerating, pink pigeons are steadily returning and the vibrant green echo parakeet is now doing well. Sadly, the trusting and flightless dodo was hunted to extinction in the 17th century. Native tortoises also vanished but the Aldabra Giant Tortoise has been introduced as an ecological replacement to graze and help restore natural vegetation.The water bottles driver Roshan had ready for our drive back to the airport are be.eau branded and the containers are made in Mauritius entirely from plants. The packaging is 100% biodegradable and compostable. Genius.Rates at Heritage Awal Golf & Spa Resort start from £346/room/night staying in a Deluxe Seaview Suite that sleeps three adults in September 2026. The All-Inclusive 5-star stay includes free access to the 18-hole championship Le Chateau Golf Course (from May to October), meals, snacks, alcoholic/soft drinks, water and land sports, evening entertainment and admission to the spa plus one spa treatment per person.Pre-booked lounge passes in No1 Lounge are available from £40 per adult: no1lounges.com.