Grilling the eateries | Tukaram Mundhe

Download App FDA commissioner Tukaram Mundhe's food-safety crackdown has made him Maharashtra's man of the moment, winning public admiration while drawing scrutiny from courts and industryTHE ENFORCER: Mundhe after a press conference in Mumbai, Aug. 26; below, some of the kitchens found wanting in FDA crackdowns. (Photo: Getty Images) On the face of it, little seems to have changed at Noor Mohammadi Hotel in Mumbai’s Bhendi Bazaar. The white-topped tables are still in place; its signature Nalli Nihari and Chicken Sanju Baba—a dish based on a recipe given by actor Sanjay Dutt—continue to draw committed patrons; and the framed M.F. Husain painting of a rooster still hangs on the wall. But the roughly 1,200 diners who eat here each day will notice the difference on closer inspection: a sharper focus on cleanliness, with staff now wearing gloves and hairnets.