For Designer Sneakers, Prada Still Reigns Supreme

Every product was carefully curated by an Esquire editor. We may earn a commission from these links. Here’s how we test products and why you should trust us.Florence Sullivan4 min readSHOP $950, prada.comWelcome to the Investment. These are the pieces—a little pricier, a lot nicer, and entirely worth the money—that our editors love and respect. The picks with a story to tell and a real reason to exist. Looking to put your dollars in the right place? Here’s how.Step onto pretty much any city sidewalk around the globe right now and you’ll notice it—provided you’ve got your eyes trained downward. From derbies to loafers to boots, guys have made a huge return to the kind of “proper” footwear that was relatively rare just a half a decade ago. Sneakers, once inescapable, seem to have taken a step out of the spotlight. But reports of their death are, to borrow a much-loved misquotation, greatly exaggerated. Sneakers are still here, still thriving. They’ve just grown up.Case in point: Prada’s new Court model, a sleek and streamlined take on the classic tennis shoes we all know and love. It’s a far cry from the hugely hyped, candy-colored kicks that once dominated the landscape, available in a quartet of chilled-out hues like “Coffee” and “Chalk White.” And it was just what I needed to break out of my recent rotation of Birkenstocks and Blundstones and get some sneakers back into the mix, so I got a pair in dark brown and gave them a thorough tryout.I’m glad I did. And whether you’re a die-hard sneaker guy or someone who’s looking to re-diversify after going all-in on hardbottoms, I suspect you’ll be equally pleased to have the Court in your personal lineup. Here’s why.Florence SullivanFirst, let’s talk looksPrada has always been masterful when it comes to combining minimalism with a distinctive design language, and the Court sneaker is no exception. It is, at its heart, a very simple thing, with a largely unadorned leather upper and a cup sole. There’s a small hit of text-based branding at the bottom of the laces and a bit of stitch detailing, neither of which scream for attention. If the design team had left it at that, though, the Court’s design might feel too simple—anonymous, even. But then you get to the single piece of overt embellishment: a leather triangle, unmistakably Prada, situated near the heel and nestled comfortably in a complementary cutout in the midsole. Yes, it’s a pretty good indicator to passersby that you’re wearing something from a pricey Italian fashion house. But even stripped of its associations, it’s an interesting—and, crucially, not distracting—element that makes the Court feel more fully considered. When you’re spending more on something like a sneaker, you want it to stand out in the right way. This, if you ask me, is just how to do it.SHOP $950, prada.comFlorence SullivanNow, about that leatherThe very first thing I noticed when I got my Court sneakers (aside from the fancy box) was just how soft they are. The calfskin uppers are downright buttery—a term I usually avoid because it’s kind of ridiculous but seems to be the only way to properly convey the texture of this leather. Thankfully, Prada hasn’t lessened that effect by building in too much padding, so slipping your foot into the shoe itself and cinching up the laces feels fantastic. People love to talk about things fitting “like a glove” when that’s just not true, which is why I tend to avoid the description just as much as the word “buttery.” But once again, I’m breaking with my own convention. It really does mimic the sensation of putting on a perfectly fitted glove; everything is snug and secure, but movement is easy and unrestricted. Throw in a nicely cushioned sole underfoot and you’ve got a pair of sneakers that feel great from the moment you put them on in the morning until you (carefully) kick them off at the end of the day. (One note: Because of the minimal construction, you’d be better off sizing down if you wear a half size.)SHOP $950, prada.comFlorence SullivanFinally, a few words on stylingI know that I don’t need to tell you, savvy and stylish reader, that wearing your designer sneakers with a suit is a dicey prospect these days. What once was fun and a little rebellious is now the domain of CEOs trying to look younger than they are and tech bros who are still taking their cues from a couple decades ago—especially when their trousers are too short and tight. But these shoes look absolutely great with the wider, longer pants currently dominating the menswear feeds. They also play well with bigger, fashion-y shorts. I’ve yet to try them with denim—too damn hot in New York—but I could see them working nicely so long as the jeans are on the looser side. Chinos or cargo pants might be a little tougher, but if you opt for one of the lighter colors and pay attention to proportion, you might just make it happen. (Never say never when it comes to style, unless you’re talking about buttoning the bottom button of your suit jacket.) Ultimately, though, these are just sneakers, and pretty simple ones at that. You know how to wear sneakers. And now, you know about a very nice new pair that you can add to your collection, too.SHOP $950, prada.comPhotography by Florence Sullivan