Fendi, are we doing Garba now? The Baguette debate

Fendi's Baguette with mirror work, beads, vibrant embroidery and all is giving full-on Navratri vibes. Is this yet another episode of cultural appropriation? Before drawing any conclusions, here's what you need to know.Chanakya School of Craft's Karishma Swali with Fendi's Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri (Photo: Maria Grazia Chiuri/Instagram, Fendi website)Lately, there has been a lot of conversation, as well as controversy, around international luxury fashion houses not giving India the credit it deserves. From the Kolhapuri chappals by Prada to the dupatta being dubbed the ‘Scandinavian scarf’, there are several such examples. Now, the world of fashion has woken up to another such moment.The Fendi "Navratri" Baguette! One look at the Italian luxury brand’s multicoloured baguette featuring mirror work and vibrant embroidery, and you are instantly transported to India: local bazaars and Navratri nights in Gujarat. It is that desi.Being sold for Rs 9.5 lakh (US$10,000), the bag is named ‘Baguette 26424: Multicolor Re Edition bag with embroidery and mirrors’. However, if you look at the product listing on the website, there is no mention of India or where the design inspiration comes from.Naturally, there is a lot of backlash. But the story is not as straight as it may sound. And stay with us till the end to know it all.Is Fendi 'ofFENDding' India? A few days ago, a social media lifestyle content creator shared a Reel featuring Fendi’s new Baguette collection. Seeing pieces doused in mirror work colourful embroidery and beads, she quipped if ‘Fendi is preparing us for Navratri this year’. In the caption, however, she wrote, “Not Fendi offending our roots’.The Reel went crazy viral and is flooded with angry comments targeting Fendi for not giving India the due credit. Watch it here:The bag, by the way, is part of Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2026–27 collection, led by Maria Grazia Chiuri, who rejoined the brand as creative director in October 2025.But there's a catch: Fendi never called it the "Navratri edition".In fact, the story goes much deeper, with a strong Mumbai connection that leads to Chanakya, a craft and embroidery house based in Mumbai, known for creating exquisite hand-embroidered textiles for top global luxury fashion brands.Fendi's tryst with Mumbai's Chanakya atelierChanakya has had a long association with both Fendi and Chiuri. They have often turned to the skilled artisans of Chanakya to outsource embroidery work and more for their pieces.As Diet Paratha, a prominent voice in the world of fashion, highlighted: “This bag is actually a remake of this vintage Fendi number from 1995. And both the original and the new versions were created by Indian artisans at the iconic Chanakya.” Diet Paratha's post on social media “Maria Grazia Chiuri has been pretty instrumental in making sure Indian craftsmanship gets its flowers in the luxury conversation. From staging Dior’s first-ever runway show in India to consistently spotlighting the extraordinary work Chanakya’s artisans contribute to the house.”Just last night (September 8), Chiuri and Karishma Swali of Chanakya were photographed together at the 40-year celebrations of Chanakya in Mumbai carrying the same bags in different colours. Maria Grazia Chiuri with Karishma Swali (Photo: Maria Grazia Chiuri/Instagram) The timing is also interesting. Fendi is currently showcasing its craftsmanship at Harrods in London, where live demonstrations include the needlework techniques used by its Mumbai-based partner. According to Harrods’ website, Chanakya’s artisans will also be present, demonstrating how they “embellish, embroider and add hand-crafted detail” to Fendi’s Baguette and Peekaboo bags.So yes, the bag was made by Indian artisans. They probably received a good paycheck, were also mentioned in a Fendi post on X (not Instagram, BTW), and some of the artisans are currently representing the brand at Harrods in London. But could mentioning this in the product details have been a good addition? Also, yes.Luxury fashion has spent years borrowing from, collaborating with and drawing inspiration from craft traditions around the world. When a piece is actually made through a long-standing partnership with artisans and craft specialists, the story becomes more complicated than simply saying a Western luxury house has “copied” an Indian aesthetic.In Fendi’s case, the relationship with Chanakya has also created opportunities for Indian artisans, while Indian craftsmanship has been acknowledged through the house’s work with the Mumbai-based atelier over the years.That said, a clear mention of India or Chanakya in the product description of a bag so visibly reminiscent of Indian craft traditions would certainly have added an important layer of context.- EndsPublished By: Jigyasa SahayPublished On: Sep 9, 2026 13:38 IST