Every New Balance 990, Ranked

The v7's nearly here, so naturally, we're picking favouritesPhotos: Courtesy of New Balance; Collage: GQThe New Balance 990 is one of the greatest sneaker lines ever. First released in 1982, the original took four years to develop and cost around $100—a lot for a running shoe back then. But the Boston brand wanted to make the best one it possibly could, and it wasn't cutting corners. More than four decades later, the series has given us some of its best trainers, with each generation making its own adjustments to the suede, the mesh, and everything underfoot.And with the seventh-gen 990v7 coming in hot, it felt like a good time to revisit the whole thing. A lot has changed since the OG, and some updates have worked better than others. We took stock—from the early pairs to the latest model, from the one that didn't quite hit to the GOAT—and here's every New Balance 990, ranked.7. New Balance 990v5 (2019)Well, someone had to come in last place. The 990v5 simplified the paneling and added Ortholite insoles, but visually, it's the one we get least hyped up about. The plastic detailing feels a little awkward, and the cleaner upper loses some of the aura of its predecessors. Of course, it's still a good-looking sneaker—there are just six others we'd pick first.6. New Balance 990v1 (1982)Putting the OG this low feels a little blasphemous, but being first doesn't automatically mean best. The 990v1's slim sole, big “N” logo, and straightforward suede panelling make it an easy pair to wear. It's a handsome thing. We just prefer the more complicated, slightly nerdier designs that NB came up with afterwards.5. New Balance 990v7 (2026)The newest 990 gets a provisional fifth. There's plenty to like in the reworked upper, including the leather accents, but the busy sole takes some getting used to. From the teaser photos, the proportions don't look quite as convincing as the pairs above it. With the release still ahead, we're judging the design here. A few good colorways could easily move it up.4. New Balance 990v6 (2022)The 990v6 made a fairly big change: out went the mid-foot saddle, leaving the “N” sitting directly on the mesh, and in with FuelCell cushioning underneath. The result looks longer and more substantial than earlier versions. That's part of the appeal, especially under wider trousers. But all that sole can dominate a fit, and we'd take the slightly neater proportions of our top three.3. New Balance 990v2 (1998)The 990v2 is the freaky-looking one, and we mean that in the best way possible. The small “N,” angular panels, and sculpted sole give it a very different feel from the rest of the family. There's a lot going on, but the slimmer upper keeps it from looking heavy. It's the pair we'd choose for someone who already has the obvious New Balances and wants something a little more particular.2. New Balance 990v4 (2016)The 990v4 is probably the one we'd recommend most often. The shape is beefy without being bulky. The suede overlays leave just enough mesh showing through. It works with jeans, loose chinos, and trousers you'd usually save for the office. Nothing feels oversized or awkward. Second place comes down to a small preference: we like the winner's extra detail a little more.1. New Balance 990v3 (2012)The diamond-patterned tongue. The ribbed “N.” The way the suede panels spread across the mesh. The 990v3 gives you plenty to look at, and somehow it all works together. It has the most convincing proportions of the seven: broad enough to suit loose trousers, with a sole that doesn't completely overwhelm the upper. Even in the standard grey color combo, there's nothing we'd want to change. Our GOAT.A version of this story originally appeared in British GQ.Sign up for Show Notes to get news on the latest runway shows, parties, and insider events on the international fashion circuit.Adam Cheung is a writer who specialises in sneakers and streetwear. Over the past few years, he's curated features and guides for everyone from Burberry to Nike. Often travelling between the UK and Hong Kong, don't be too surprised if you find Adam anywhere else around the world taking street ... Read More