Emma D’Arcy Just Brought This Japanese Menswear Darling to Its First Red Carpet

“What’s always interesting with Emma is that they tend to do things that other people aren’t doing,” says stylist Rose Forde. The Emma that Forde is referring to is her client, House of the Dragon star Emma D’Arcy.At the Emmys, instead of going the standard route with a big-name fashion house, they wore a louche, flowy suit from the rising Japanese menswear label Soshiotsuki.“We work with some of the biggest luxury houses for Emma, but we’re not always led by that,” Forde explains. “Emma always wants to champion new, interesting perspectives.”Kevin Mazur/Getty ImagesIf you’re plugged into menswear circles, you’ve probably heard of Soshiotsuki. Despite the Emmys marking the brand’s red carpet debut, founder Soshi Otsuki has become one of the most critically acclaimed designers in recent memory for his distinctive, genre-bending tailoring that calls to mind both ’80s-era Japanese salarymen and ’90s Giorgio Armani. Last September, Otsuki was awarded the prestigious LVMH prize.“I think they needed to trust that our intentions were going to fit theirs,” says Forde, about the early morning Zoom calls she had with the brand about D’Arcy’s look. “They’re not necessarily in a rush to overexpose [themselves]. But I was really happy that we were able to work with them, and be the first to work with them.”Forde has been a fan of the label for years, ever since she first encountered one of Otsuki’s early collections. “I was blown away by how they built character, their prose,” says Forde. “Obviously, the tailoring was so beautiful. The cut hints at old-school Armani, but then it felt like [it had] all these Japanese cinematic references. And the colors! In terms of tailoring, they've got a really strong point of view, and they're building a world.”That mindset is partly why D’Arcy’s look stood out amongst what was a lot of tailoring at the Emmys. Despite the trend of relaxed, slightly oversized suits, the fits at this week’s affair were a bit trimmer. (Enough that the tailor scoring British GQ’s best-dressed list was surprised.)Jacob OgdenJacob OgdenIn contrast, the suit jacket’s oversized shoulders draw attention to the shirt’s wide spread collar, which meets the top two fastened buttons of the waistcoat. The high-waisted trousers with a three-pleat drape (which Forde says is one of her favorite details) helps create “this huge bagginess” in the super wide-leg frame. It’s relaxed and has plenty of movement. The look has that suave aura that only a few can naturally pull off. Someone who caused a viral vocal stim for their pronunciation of ‘Negroni Sbagliato’ being one of them.That said, there were some tweaks. When the look first appeared on Soshiotsuki’s spring-summer 2027 runway, the label styled it with a white shirt. Forde swapped that out for a dusty rose piece, which matched the Tiffany jewels around D’Arcy’s neck and “made [the look] fresh and softened it somewhat.”“What’s brilliant about their style is at first you’re like, ‘Oh wow, that’s super different,’ but then you go back and look at it again and again and again and you understand it more,” says Forde. “That’s what I think is really exciting about Emma. They will wear something which feels very current and now, and then they will wear something which feels like it will be current in the years to come.”This Soshiotsuki look fits that brief to a tee. “The looseness, the ease of it, it’s really sexy,” Forde says. “It’s really cinematic. It’s elegant, but not in a forced, done-up way. The design feels very Emma.”This story originally appeared on British GQ.