Delhi’s iconic Wenger’s bakery at Connaught Place turns 100

Delhi’s iconic Wenger’s bakery at Connaught Place turns 100

The family WhatsApp group was abuzz the other day with memories of Wenger’s, the iconic Connaught Place bakery that recently completed a century in the capital. Gen X cousins fondly recalled frequenting the confectionery for its classic chocolate eclairs and pineapple pastries, while others chimed in with nostalgia for the shami kebabs and mutton patties.Then, a voice from the younger end of the family piped up - “We still go! Nothing can beat Wenger’s. The cream roll is one of the best. Their patties and shami kebabs are also amazing. Gen Z also can’t stop talking about it.” Old photo of Wenger’s | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement When I dropped in at the historic bakery on a weekday afternoon, I realised that the younger cousin was spot on! Passing beneath the signboard with Wenger’s written in an elegant font, and glass and wood panels flanking the main door, one enters only to be engulfed in the unmistakable aroma of warm butter, melting chocolate, and freshly baked pastry crusts. Standing shoulder-to-shoulder at the glass counters are corporate executives in formal shirts and trousers grabbing a quick mid-day mutton patty, university students debating whether to split a rum ball or a cream roll, and elderly patrons patiently waiting for their box of pineapple pastries.There is a fast-paced rhythm to the room. The staff behind the counters move with practised ease, packing white-and-red boxes. In an age where modern patisseries prioritise plush seating and aesthetic backdrops just right for the ‘gram, Wenger’s remains blissfully unpretentious with its strictly takeaway, classic ethos. You come, you order, you stand in the corridor outside to devour your warm patty or get cream on your hands while licking the chocolate eclair, but you always leave with a grin on your face. Bakes at Wenger’s | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement That stubborn commitment to quality and consistency is precisely how a Swiss bakery, established in 1926 by Mr and Mrs Wenger, survived a century of shifting tastes, political turns, and modern competition. Originally catering to British troops and Indian royalty, and later acquired by the Tandon family in the 1940s, Wenger’s became part of the city’s culinary DNA.Today, it is run by cousins Atul Tandon and Aman Tandon, the third-generation flagbearers of the legacy, who look after the production and ensure that the ingredients are top-notch and fresh. And while classics such as the lemon tart, chocolate jap, French hearts and black forest continue to remain favourites, they have seamlessly integrated modern additions like macarons, mini baguette pizzas, and red velvet pastries into their line-up. The adjoining Wenger’s Deli, which they started in 2013, serves a small selection of pastas, pizzas, hot dogs and smoothies. Charanjeet Singh – the 82-year-old manager | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement The distinguished-looking sardarji who can always be spotted at the bakery is Charanjeet Singh – the 82-year-old manager who joined Wenger’s as a strapping young lad in 1965! Dressed impeccably in a full-sleeved blue shirt, dark grey trousers, dark blue tie and turban, he recalls how there were just four flavours of pastries sold at the confectionary. “There was vanilla, strawberry, chocolate and pineapple, and they were made of margarine. There was no concept of fresh cream or buttercream. We also sold gâteaux in vanilla, strawberry and pineapple which were for ₹3, and the chocolate ones sold for ₹4. Now, we make more than 40 types of cakes and 70 varieties of pastries and mousse,” he says with a smile.Over the years, Charanjeet has seen many first-timers become loyal customers and bring their children and grandchildren to introduce them to their favourite bakery. Interestingly, there are no sepia-tone framed photographs of the prominent dignitaries, politicians, film stars and cricketers who have dropped in over the decades, and become its loyal patrons. The former Chief Minister of Jammu and Kashmir, Farooq Abdullah, sarod maestro Amjad Ali Khan and his sons Ayaan Ali Bangash and Amaan Ali Bangash, artist MF Husain – who would famously scribble on their tissue papers - former Deputy Prime Minister of India LK Advani, former Prime Minister of India Morarji Desai and cricketer Gautam Gambhir have all walked through these glass doors. “Shah Rukh Khan used to visit during his television days. His favourites were the shami kebabs and lemon tarts,” Charanjeet recalls. Old photo of Wenger’s | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement Ask him how he feels about Wenger’s hitting the 100th year mark and his eyes twinkle with pride. “There is no doubt about it – there is no confectionary which has been so consistent with quality or has so much variety,” he says. As I leave after devouring a delicious, flaky mutton patty, coffee and a soft-as-a-cloud marzipan, Charanjeet Singh presses a small box of chocolates in my hand.“Don’t say no; this is from all of us. Keep visiting,” he says. Perhaps this is why Wenger’s has stood the test of time. Beyond the flawless quality and the century-old recipes, it is this unpretentious warmth that keeps Delhi coming back.

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